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LOL! :laughup:

Really? Tell me why it's wrong? What is the difference? It's fiberglass, fellas. It ain't plutonium coated gold filled secret agent stuff. It's just fiberglass. Billions of these things have been sold: http://www.cherrybomb.com/Catalog/Categories/glasspack.aspx What's inside 'em?? Dang. Yes...

Grab a handful from your basement or attic. The house will never know :tup:

Do a search under "stator". You'll probably find the answer there.

Every biker's toolbox needs one of these, works like a dream. Definitely cuts down on the butchering: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html Use a dab of antisieze or oil on the end of the threads when reinstalling. Don't overtighten them either. Just till...

Just like the grease, don't beat yourself over the head about it. I usually use inexpensive non synthetic oil, and have never, ever had an oil related problem. The key is to change it often. My '02 BMW has had BMW service all of its 109K miles of life (pricey synthetic or Castrol with BMW...

What solvent? Just soaking probably won't do it. Depending on the carb and the condition of the O-rings, most need just cleaned and not even a kit. Make sure you remove and run a small wire through the pilot jet, and open up the galley running through the bowl for the accelerator pump. It's...

87, Mounted my SSC replica rear 17x9" wheels with 245/50's, redetailed the rear brakes, cut front rotors and detailed all of the components there too. The AOD was shifting funny when parked (4 years ago), so I removed the tailshaft and cleaned the governor (never did that before). Big dummy...

Carb needs removed and PROPERLY cleaned. Your pilot and accel. pump circuit(s) are most likely plugged. Todays gasoline is junk, and doesn't last worth a hoot and deteriorates very quickly (thank you, Mr. Ethanol). This does not mean just drop the bowl, spray with carb cleaner and reassemble...

Use blue 'Tite for most stuff, not red.

Sorry for your loss here as well. I lost my Dad a year and a half ago. Sure do think about him all of the time, especially when I'm doing mechanical stuff. We were pretty tight, he taught me everything I know. Hang in there, man.

No difference. Just get a pen and swap it for yours, nobody'll know the difference (in the pen) :tup:

Tear down's the eeeeeeasy part. Took me 2 years to get mine back on all 4 feet :)

Everything around New Kensington is frowned upon or shut down. I tote my kid to ride on private land either above Kittanning or Lower Burrell. And it's not much at that unfortunately.

Nope, need a tester. All cylinders will "leak", the tester determines how much and where the leak potentially is (poorly seating valves or rings). Rough running could be the low compression cylinders not efficiently burning the mixture. Define "clatter"? Detonation? I know when I mash the...

That upside down screw is the low speed (pilot) screw. Need to have that at least 2 turns out. I'm surprised it starts and idles at all... We need to know what all mods are on the engine first.

For 5 bills, I wouldn't bitch. Probably worth that without an engine in the frame.

Compression and leakdown testing : http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm Note: need to check compression with all of the plugs out, also. Need to determine if it's gas or oil fouling the plugs. Oil fouled looks wet and gooey like tar. Gas fouled generally looks fluffy and dry. A leaky...

Compression is low and erratic, cylinder-to-cylinder. Do a leakdown test to check rings. Won't explain the sudden oil consumption problem, though. I'd look at the intake gaskets again. Might have a cracked head/intake, blown head gasket(s), slipped intake gasket, etc. You didn't say if all of...

Probably. Or less likely, either the PCV hose isn't hooked up right or dried out intake manifold-to-block end rail seals, which are/should be replaced by RTV sealant. All those old Chevys leak like that if they have not had the gaskets changed. The rocker covers are cheesy thin stamped steel...