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Are you wanting to calculate true compression ratio (as compared to estimated ratio), check for flat gasket surface, valve clearance or just CC the head? Looking at your sig, if you haven't done anything out of the ordinary like omit the base gasket, etc. you should be OK with a standard gasket...

Best response ever ^ . Worth rereading it several times, so it sinks in real good. You'll be hard pressed to find a nicer, more knowledgeable bunch of hands-on guys anywhere but here.

A good bit more than $30 I'm sure. Nice score!

Sweet. Make sure the o-rings and rubber "bushing" looking thing get installed in the proper order, on the right rear cylinder bolt. That's the passage that carries the dinosaur sauce upstairs to the head. It'll probably leak like a SOB if they're not right. I had to ask to be sure when I did...

How clean did you make it? Did you remove the pilot jet from the body and run a small wire through it? Run a wire in each end of the accelerator pump passages in the body, discharge nozzle, air/fuel screw orfice and bowl? Verify full flow through every passage with carb cleaner? Did mine a few...

You're waaaay far away from needing the gaskets. You should pull the cam, valves and rocker shafts and inspect them for heat damage and galling from being run dry. You'll be very, very lucky if they are ok... You already said the exhaust valve was stuck...as in galled to the guide (metal...

What bolts/nuts are you talking about here?? Take a pic so we know for sure what and where it's cracked. If it's in a non structural area, then an epoxy splooge job should be OK. Case on mine was JB Welded from a chain derailment and worked fine. We're here to help.

Need to pull it down first to analyze the damage. Then put your action plan together. You're just guessing at the needs otherwise.

Cracked from the stud hole? Nope.

Refer to post #43. Yup, it's that simple. Be sure to take the clutch cover off and flush the crankcase with something like an aerosol degreaser or brake cleaner. It is full of the same crap on the bottom of the transmission. Do NOT let solvent get on the clutches. Why Yamaha ran the...

Why in the blazing hell would you continue to ride with a known sick engine? Probably wiped everything and anything that was still salvageable before the ride. Dude :ohno:

Check the valve lash. If they are excessively loose, it changes the amount of lift and duration and will screw with the cranking pressure/speed. Been there, done that. If it is cranking, the solenoid is fine.

Do a search for my posts on this subject. Lazy people simply run the crap out of these machines and fail to change the oil, simple as that. Filter gets clogged and sucked shut, starves the top end and eats the cam, rockers, rocker shafts, cam bearings, rings... Mine had the same problem. Pump...

I rebuilt my lever. It was stuck with rust and mud (of course). There's a roll pin holding the plastic handle to the shaft. Drive it out with a small screwdriver or punch. This will allow you to disassemble and clean all of the parts. I replaced the broken detent spring with one from a hardware...

I'd think plenty of owners of the "adult quads" buy them in an attempt to compensate for lack of riding talent :iagree:.

Sounds like the perfect homebuilt Hot Rod sleeper to me! Congratulations on assembling a clean, well engineered package. Impressive, I like it a lot! :tup:

The Kan-O-Tuna's engine is the same as the GSXR, oil cooled. Why did you disassemble them in the first place, and were they varnished up inside? If the bodies were off the rack, chances are they need to be synchronized again with a tool something like this...

Did you take each carb body off of the rack? I hope not...

Quick, sell it and buy a Warrior.

That's the shifter knob from my uncle's '68 Plymouth! Looks way cool, and functional. Is the finish like a Parkerized? I did my aluminum framed Hungarian PPK copy .380 carry piece in KalGard Gun Kote. Was a spray bomb, baked on semi-flat finish that was sorta like thin bedliner. Looked great...