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Smoke out the pipes? Worn valve guides most likely, not leaky gaskets. Requires machine shop to install. You can add "umbrella seals" to the valve stems (Chevy uses useless O-rings that do nothing) that will keep most of the oil from splashing on the stems and running down in the guides. The...

Did you install new rings? If so, did you hone the cylinder so the new rings would seat properly?

Probably, but I bit the bullet and bought the Yamaha nuts for mine...for like $6 a piece... :eek:

Don't look for any performance improvements below 120mph or so... looks cool though.

How and what exactly did you measure? The oil? Cylinder/fins? Exhaust?

That's a good idea. Gray RTV is some strong stuff. I wouldn't try the others. Make sure you degrease and scuff the mating surfaces with a small stiff stainless brush or equivalent to give the RTV some "tooth" to bite to. Careful with using sandpaper as not to round off the machined gasket edges.

Muffler bracket should be the giveaway. My old streetbike headers used to use stamped sheetmetal for that hanger, not a nice extruded piece like this one has. The paint looks like a cheesy rattle can job and the springs look like they're from aisle 6 in ACE Hardware.

Forgot about the head to frame brackets maybe? And yes, unbolt (2 nuts) and slide the carb off of the manifold as a unit, hang it on the bars with a bungee cord.

Mine sealed fine too, but I'm glad I looked at them anyways. My compressor (the retainer end) fingers screw onto the C-clamp part, so the adapter is interchangeable. No harm to the main tool itself. Maybe yours is too?

Sounds all too familiar. Had me muttering a lot of WTF's, too... I made an adapter for my C-clamp style, replacing the end that goes on the valve retainer with a piece of vertical 1" square tubing (notched with a grinder to get to the locks) welded to a plate that screws to the clamp. My valve...

168-16325-00-00 plate, clutch 2 (t=1.6)

"Flywheel effect" is adding physical weight to the rotating assembly (crank/flywheel), making the engine rev slower and smoother. More weight can take an "explosive" power delivery (like a high strung 2 stroke MX bike for example) and make it feel like a street and trail 4 stroke. That's a...

Pull the spark plugs, look for an abnormally clean one. Then do a compression check for blown head gasket or cracked head/block. Let us know what you find.

Sounds like a potential nightmare.

There is no "fudge fix" for a base gasket, don't waste your time. Try retorquing the head bolts.

My valve margins were beat into the seats. There was a groove in each valve. They're much cheaper to replace than recut. Exhaust seat was surprisingly nice, but a bit pitted. Lapping might have done in a pinch, but I had access to a Neway valve cutting set and sharpened it up that way. Intake...

I'd check the hot wire for the reverse light to make sure it's not rubbed through and grounding anywhere.

Mine didn't have that many hours either. Still had stock front (burned out) tires on it. Hardest part is getting a tool to compress the valve springs. They sit too deep in the head to use a standard automotive valve spring compressor. I made an adapter for my compressor out of scrap 1" square...

If you're going that far, I'd definitely recommend having the valves and seats checked. It will involve removing the valves from the head. Mine sealed OK but the seats and valve margins were beat. Required 2 new valves (they're cheap) and recutting the seats. The intake seat machining was poor...

I owned 3 of these 900's back in the day. This pic was taken just as Warriors were first being produced LOL. Soon after this pic, this'un wore a 5# NOS bottle on a custom bracket replacing the rear grab bar. It was bone stock internally and used 4 fogger nozzles drilled and tapped up into the...