honing a cylinder?

[codysisk13]

If I hone the cylinder can i still use the stock bore it had previously?

 

[YAMAHAULER]

I believe so as long as it's a light hone

 

[Rhyno]

In God we trust, all others bring data.....

Have you measured the bore yet?


If I were you, I focus on the Carb, that's kickin' your ass. :haha:



Here are the tools that you need to do the measuring....

Here's one......
http://www.mytoolstore.com/mitutoyo/511-01.html
or
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0962268&ucst=t

Or both of these...

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=7059293

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=7059393&ucst=t




The second recommendation group is better, because you have to measure the Piston, too.

Then you have to do the Inch to Metric Conversion, Read the manual to find the specs, and subtract the two measurements to see if you're within spec.

And that's a very brief explanation that doesn't include proper Tool Handling, which can F-up your readings....

Good Luck, though...

-Rhyno



You don't have A.D.D/ A.D.H.D., do ya?

It seems like you can't finish one problem, before you start 33 other things....

I'm not judging, I just trying to understand.....

 

[Rhyno]

I believe so as long as it's a light hone

How many thousandths equal a light hone?

How can you tell how much is gone, how egg shaped the bore is, or how much taper is within the bore?


-Rhyno

 

[MidwayUSA]

How many thousandths equal a light hone?

How can you tell how much is gone, how egg shaped the bore is, or how much taper is within the bore?


-Rhyno

To do a light hone you use a flex hone. They deglaze the cylinder without hogging material out of the bore. We have and do power hone them to deglaze, but have to ease into it because it's easy to remove too much material.

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=2

 

[codysisk13]

them tools are a little on the expensive side! lol and what do you mean the carbs is kicking my ass? did you see my latest video?

 

[Rhyno]

them tools are a little on the expensive side! lol and what do you mean the carbs is kicking my ass? did you see my latest video?

They are expensive, but they are normally at a Machine shop or close to an Ex-Machinist.

I did see your latest video. I think that the idle and bottom end still isn't correct, though. I know that it was cold, was the choke on?

I'm used to them idling smoother than your's did.

Did you ever get the float height adjusted? What about tuning the fuel screw?

-Rhyno

 

[MidwayUSA]

They are expensive, but they are normally at a Machine shop or close to an Ex-Machinist.

-Rhyno

Yeah they are pricey. My boss bitches every time he has to order one. We have ones from 7/8" all the way up to 4 3/4". If you were closer I could hone if for you for around $10. It would cost you more than that to ship one way.

 

[codysisk13]

no the choke wasnt on , and what do you mean the bottem end isnt right? and i havent adjusted the float yet. whats the specs on the float adjustment? the fuel screw is 2 1/2 turns out or maybe thats the air/mixture screw

 

[codysisk13]

and i wish i did live closer midway

 

[Rhyno]

no the choke wasnt on , and what do you mean the bottem end isnt right? and i havent adjusted the float yet. whats the specs on the float adjustment? the fuel screw is 2 1/2 turns out or maybe thats the air/mixture screw

I meant the "Bottom End" of the RPM range. Specifically, the idle. Does it smooth out once it's warm/hot?

If you haven't looked at/measured/ adjusted the float height, then do that before you make any other adjustments.

Chase one problem at a time, until you get better.

-Rhyno