Planning on changing up clutch cover mod

Well has anyone that has kept up with Ed's #5 build, he had the steel epoxy let loose. It the first and only one that I have heard of, at least of ones that I have done. well for me all it takes is 1 issue and its time to change something up. Ive got some ideas for an actual permanent block for the galley that cant and will not come loose. In the mean time Im not going to do anymore til I have come up with a for sure. I dont want any of my work chancing hurting someines time or money for someones pride and joy agian, which luckily #5 is fine.

Thanks to Jeff I have a cover on its way to, pay it foward style!!! And Ed has just offered to send the failed cover back to me. When I have a for sure fix the advancement of the Clutch cover mod cooling will in part be thanks to those 2. If any of you guys have any input feel free to put it up, Im all ears.



Right now the ideas are

1. a metal plug(actual metal) with the galley modded to help keep it in place and lock-tite!! just to be sure.

2. a plug threaded into the galley blocking flow from either the backside or front. Which would be dependant on if it was painted or polished.

3. Welding the galley shut, this by far would be the best but most expensive. Especially since I dont have the capability to weld them myself. I would have to far it out.

I definately wanna take this farther than Mickey Dunlop ever dreamed.

1998yamahawarrior said:

Well has anyone that has kept up with Ed's #5 build, he had the steel epoxy let loose. It the first and only one that I have heard of, at least of ones that I have done. well for me all it takes is 1 issue and its time to change something up. Ive got some ideas for an actual permanent block for the galley that cant and will not come loose. In the mean time Im not going to do anymore til I have come up with a for sure. I dont want any of my work chancing hurting someines time or money for someones pride and joy agian, which luckily #5 is fine.

Thanks to Jeff I have a cover on its way to, pay it foward style!!! And Ed has just offered to send the failed cover back to me. When I have a for sure fix the advancement of the Clutch cover mod cooling will in part be thanks to those 2. If any of you guys have any input feel free to put it up, Im all ears.


1. a metal plug(actual metal) with the galley modded to help keep it in place and lock-tite!! just to be sure.

2. a plug threaded into the galley blocking flow from either the backside or front. Which would be dependant on if it was painted or polished.

3. Welding the galley shut, this by far would be the best but most expensive. Especially since I dont have the capability to weld them myself. I would have to far it out.

I definately wanna take this farther than Mickey Dunlop ever dreamed.

Click to expand...

No problem Tony Glad to help out..! Keep us posted on your progress...

#2 sounds like a good idea IMO

Any updates? Had my epoxy fail this weekend and not really digging the bb adapter

Glad that you addressing the problem. But why not just do the Big Bear oil cooler instead of trying to band aid a clutch cover. My Raptor has had the Big Bear setup for two years and it works just like Yamaha intended it to. And I do not have aluminum or brass fitting hanging out the side of my case at a 90 degree angle out in the open that may get broken off at the threads. Rap one of those fitting lightly with a hammer after it's is threaded into the case and see how well it holds up. Do the job right the first time and get the adaptor from Yamaha it works just as well and is a great design. I see no benefit to drilling and tapping the clutch cover case. In the end you get the same result, but a much better design in the end. Spend a dollar to save 10, but it will costs you 100's type of deal.

the reason behind the clutch cover mod is it cools the oil going strait to the crank. its not trying to save money its just a better system. it just has to be worked out for a better method of blocking the galleys.

It is not a better system, cool oil is just that, cool oil. It lowers the temp of the engine overall. The hottest oil is in the head. Your thinking is just a myth. The crank has so much oil splashing on it that it is cooled from just volume of oil. And it is by far not the hot spot in the motor. So why would you address a non issue. If you cool the overall temp of the motor all parts will live longer. But cool the hottests part the most then it will live longer as well. As well as your oil, it will not break down as fast. Your crank is in a constant high volume oil bath, and the amount of heat in that area is minimal compared to other parts of the engine that need more cooling.

you do realise the rod bearing is lubricated solely through the clutch cover gallys because the oil is injected through the crank into the bearing right? its not a car engine its not always in an oil bath.
but i guess your smarter than the master of building warrior 350s mickey Dunlap right? the guy who created this mod so crankshafts would stop failing because of mediocre lubrication from overheated oil?

you dont hear of a big bear failing. Just saying it cools oil does the job of a oil cooler different strokes for different folks

I've run both, the clutch cover runs cooler. I don't have heat gun readings to back that up, but, I know from experience that it runs cooler. Also, the valve train in these engines are bulletproof. The head also has cooling fins that help to dissipate the heat, and most of the peeps here are using air shrouds to direct more air over the top end. The crankcase gets very little heat dissipation.

In closing, while cool oil is cool oil, by the time the cool oil from the big bear methoid returns to the crankcase, it has already absorbed heat. It may still be cooler then an engine without a cooler, but the oil from the clutch cover methoid has a very short distance to travel before returning to the crankcase. So, cooler oil cooling the crankcase, returning to it sooner, and being pumped back through the engine faster as well, results in lower engine temps and increased engine life.

Best explanation ever that's not over complicated! Personally I think one of the biggest issues with using an epoxy is making sure the inside of the galley is clean, clean clean, oily residue free. Then be sure that it has plenty of time to cure.

True that^^^. Brakeclean and compressed air are your friend.

I did both and let sit for a week. Idk what went wrong

The rest of the crank passing through the oil acts as a heat sink pulling the heat away from critical parts. And the heat in that area is not that great to begin with. I am not saying the Big bear is better at cooling over the modded case, it is just better because of design. A motor that runs a modded case does not run any cooler than a Big Bear system. The temp drop is dictated by how many BTU's the actual cooler can dissipate. As stated... cooler oil is just that, cooler oil. And the entire engine temp will reflect how much heat the cooler and fins can dissipate. You can not convince me that the location of the cooler pickup will change how many BTU's the cooler will dissipate unless their is a volume difference through the cooler. If the cooler has the capability of pulling out 30% of the heat out of the oil, it will lower the engine temp 15%. Oil only has the capability of lowering engine temp by 50% at best. And being an engine builder I would think that I know a thing or two about it.
Car in pictures runs 8.60 1/4 mile @160MPH, this is my drag car that I built the whole driveline in.

I don't think you understand the warrior crank is NOT in an oil bath

I'm not looking to get into a pissing match over this. There have been so many of them because of the different methods of cooling, it's sickening.

I'm a mechanic, I understand how the coolers work, what dictates how well they perform, etc... So, I know what you are saying. However... I have run BOTH methods, using the exact same cooler, in the extact same location, with my engine being in peek operation condition, with the carb properly tuned, I run 20/50 Yamalube in the summer and 10/40 Yamalube in the winter, and the clutch cover runs cooler on my bike.

Only things that have changed are the build level of my engine, and the size and length of the steel braided lines I used.

Although I have not had a crank or rod bearing go out on me, I have seen many others that did. If memory serves, part of the crank/rod bearing failure is the amount of oil that gets to the crank under extreme conditions. I run the piss out of my bike, so I wanted to give the clutch cover method a try since I was building a more heavily modded engine, and had it apart on the bench. I had already been running the BB setup, had no complaints, but figured what the hell. The results have been more then enough proof for me to keep running it. I still like the BB setup, and won't ever say it sucks.

My only gripe is that the fittings sticking out, like has been said, but the BB adapter can be just as vunerable. Maybe more so because it is mounted so low?... There are no skid plates that I know of that protect the adapter cover where the fittings screw in, that I know of anyway(except for the one I built). How wany times have we all had tree limbs, stumps, and other such trail obstactles ram our shifters or pegs? Just takes one to hit the fittings, or lines used, and it spells disaster. Either way you slice it, both systems have their short comings and Achelli's Heel.

geeessfore said:

I did both and let sit for a week. Idk what went wrong

Click to expand...

It could have been the type of epoxy you used, how well you mixed it, how much hardener you used VS the amount of BASE, etc...

Updates are coming geeessforce, got one here Im doing for coop with the new method so Ill have some pics. Im just taking my time doing it and planning so I dont mess the cover up some how.

Now Im assuming what happened is the epoxy slipped out of your galley? If so this idea is going to prevent that. Im still for this design of it going to use some epoxy, but the metal plug is going to be between the line hole and the epoxy is going to be to be sure theres a seal between and act like a smooth transition to the upper line.

I have discovered though I may have to make my own plugs, as the smallest I can find is 1/8 npt and we all know how close those are to being to big.

I used that jb putty

you know i was thinking about this today at work .. my thought was if you only drill one hole is the cover and the other in the crank case... you could thread the hole coming out of the cover (@ the edge) and put in a threaded plug

i dont know just a thought ... what do you guys think ?