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Been there with my own "clean looking" carb... You have to verify flow through ALL of the pilot jet and accelerator pump circuits. Just soaking it will not do. The circuits have VERY small passages and openings, including: 1) Removing the pilot jet itself and poking the hole open with fine...

If it ran fine before being stored, I can't imagine anything needing "set". Your pilot jet circuit is probably plugged with varnish. How exactly did you clean it?

If the plug is black then it is not running fine. Might feel ok, but it's not happy. Can't have any leaks at all. You never said what jets are in it, or where the needle is (which slot the clip is in). With a vacuum leak present you'll never get proper fuel metering. Is the air filter side of...

Huh? Do you mean CDI box?

Counterbalanced 2 stroke? Really? Four stroke yes, 2 stroke no... Mount that biotch up and ride! Just don't try an EX500 swap...

Quote of the day there, folks! :tup: I think I need that as my sig! :haha: Love it!

Like I said, I used a Namura kit like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-YFM-350-YFM350X-Warrior-Engine-Motor-Gasket-Kit-/370503766072?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5643bed038

None are mine. May be some potential good deals for parts or rebuilds: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/rvs/2581762308.html http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/rvs/2600810514.html http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/rvs/2607238226.html http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/rvs/2603338541.html Here's a...

IMO, it is impossible to quote that job without tearing it down to see exactly what the problem is. Waaaaaay too many variables... Mine smoked the same. Standard bore was luckily in great shape, but the oil rings had lost their tension due to overheating and oil starvation (totally plugged and...

Valve adjustment nut came loose.

Will it bump start?

Also depends on what is "bad" about the valves. Bent (from piston contact)? Burned? Broken guide(s)? Demolished valve seats? Piece of piston crown in bottom end? Scored jug? Shizz can get plenty deep in a hurry...

I'da tried it if i'da known!!!

You need an exploded diagram of the kicker and clutch side to verify that you have all of the parts, and that they are all assembled in proper order. Can be found online. No guesswork required.

Silly question, but would you put the diamond to the inside (top) or bottom (so it slides better over stuff)?

It's all part of the combo. Cam timing, namely overlap as previously mentioned, bleeds off cranking compression (as opposed to static compression). There is no theoretical "limit" so to speak.

I have a bare scrap one if you want to practice first. Broken guides, whacked seats... junk. Free plus shipping.

Recently analyzed the battery drain on my 5.0 Mustang. Would draw 2A with key out, and all fuses/relays removed from the box. Pulled plug from voltage regulator on the back of the alternator, installed new reg and bingo, no draw. Just a thought.

I'm with Jebby 110%. It's five bucks worth of oil, man. Change it. Then do it again after you get back.

I'd be somewhat fearful, especially if you're not into a driving restoration. Parts are "cheap" and very plentiful for the '65-68's, as far as resto parts are concerned. What the 2 concerns to me would be: - The V8 conversion. So simple, but so easy to Mickey Mouse up. - Rust. Not the rust that...