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simple way is to take a trip to autozone and get some 1 3/4 pipe and 2 exhaust clamps.. But honestly if it were me and i was really trying to make this work i would move the slip on back till it fit. Anyone running an airbox wont be able to but people like me with no airbox would have...

I found mine actually felt like the play was side to side... but the worn out bearings were actually causing the stem to rise when i turned the bars... rather than jiggle like i thought... However that clamp has a tendancy to work loose also.... Take it apart i think there may be orings in there...

Second the EBC severe duty pads.. However for the very very little benefit of either a wave rotor other than looks i would just find a cheap stock/drilled replacement. The average rider would never get the rotor hot enough to warp it anyway. If the rotor was actually "bent" and not warped...

Do a compression check.... sounds like your losing some of your cylinder pressure into the crankcase forcing oil out the breather. Might be time for a rebuild

There is a gold idle adjustment screw on the carb. Turn it with your fingers while running to set the idle. The original chain length is 98 links.. But keep in mind if you change sprockets you may need to go bigger. Ordering a 100 link chain and cutting 2 links out is better than it not...

If you did not switch to a highflow airfilter then there really is no reason to need a rejet. Dynojet kits are not only a waste of money... but they will confuse the hell out of you... why in the hell they ever decided to make their own jetting number system is beyond me... They might as...

This is most likely a jetting problem..... in mikuni jet numbers a 147.5 would be just about right.... And he is at a 148 main in dynojet numbers which are nowhere near the same as stock jet numbers.

lowering the footpegs would be the only real way to do it... with some welding it could be done easily... but your pegs are gonna hit the ground before the frame does if you bottom out.

Yes match the aluminum spacer to your intake. Otherwise your going to have a whole bunch of disturbance in flow right there

**** i think i paid like 415 for mine

cam sprocket?

where do you live at.

You need to have these parts.... no question about it. If you ever take that screen out and clean it you will be amazed at how much crap gets in there.... ive found shavings much bigger than i like to find in there sometimes but at least they arent being pumped through the motor. So go the...

Jetting could be off.....

Your not supposed to hold the clutch in slightly while moving.... you burned the clutch..... You can get a clutch kit just about anywhere from dealers to ebay to wherever... just buy a good one like EBC, Barnett, DP or stock

the easiest way is to not pressure wash it.... hand wash the plastics... they come alot cleaner anyway.... just dont put alot of WD-40 on the plastics or you will be losing bolts all over the place In fact using any kind of dressing is gonna make dirt stick like a magnet...if i had to...

If you bent the shift shaft you would be the first.... i have been slammin gears for a long time with mine as does everyone else with no problems. The shifter would most deff. bend first... shaft is made of much stronger steel than any of the aftermarket shifters.

No matter what you do the warrior has a flat spot off idle with the stock carb.... even if fixed the accel pump is non adjustable and never pumps the right amount of fuel right off the bottom anyway. Alot of aftermarket carbs dont even have one... so if its running good other than that i wouldnt...

I think i paid 12 bucks at the stealer for front wheels bearings for both sides.... i can buy 5 sets of them to one set of these... and honestly like stated above they last a long ass time... ive put in 1 set in 9 years

pull the wheels off and grease them once in a great while and even the cheap ebay bearings will last for as long as these.