I have searched this forum but now I need some help. I have a 97 warrior (100% stock) that my dad has owned since new. It has very light use and it has sat most of its life. It starts and idles fine, but when I gas it in neutral, it wants to die. When taking off in gear, I have to feather the gas and the clutch to keep it from dying. From the posts on here, I have already removed the stock lever with the parking brake and connected the black wire with the black/yellow wire. I installed an MSR aof clutch lever and perch. I have also cleaned the carb and installed a 40 pilot jet and 135 main with stock needle in the middle position. I have also checked the pump (cant remember the name) which has a spring on it when the bottom of the carb is removed. I live in the Colorado rockies and ride anywhere from 6500' and up. Any help would be greatly appreciated and also if there is anyone out there with a warrior and rides at simular altitude, what jetting are you running?
97 warrior bogging?
- Thread starter cuaround
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:
It sounds like an accelerator pump problem. You should do the pen spring mod and the valve stem cap mod to your carb and it should be good to go. Will feel like a whole different animal. You can find out what those are/how to do them using the search function. Simple explanation is to remove the rod, replace the stock spring with the spring out of a pen, then put a valve stem cap on top of the rod.
MS_Warrior
Well-Known Member
It sounds like the pilot is to small to me stock being 42.5 i believe . I would fiddle around with it and maybe put the stock jets back in after a good cleaning and making sure they are clean.
Hes high elevation though
MS_Warrior
Well-Known Member
pulled this from 4strokes.com my bad...........
For our first example let's say we find a new riding area WAY up in the mountains. Our jetting is dialed in for our usual riding area which ranges from sea level to 1500 feet. Our NEW riding area starts at 4000 feet and goes up from there. Going to a higher elevation will require will require a jetting change but which way? Like our fuel density, air density can also change. Higher elevations have less air density then lower ones. At high elevations our engines are getting less air, so they need less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Generally you would go down one main jet size for every 1750 to 2000 feet of elevation you go up (info for Mikuni carbs). If you normally run a 160 main jet at sea level you would drop down to a 140 at 4000 feet. Something else goes down as you go up in elevation is horsepower. You can figure on losing about 3% or your power for every 1000 feet you go up. At 4000 feet your power will be down about 12%-even though you rejetted! For our second example let's say we are still at our new 4000-feet elevation riding area and a storm comes in. We head back to camp and ride it out overnight. The next day there's a foot of snow on the ground the skies are clear and it's COLD! Aside from getting the campfire going and making some coffee you should be thinking about jetting again! Cold air is dense air and dense air requires bigger jets. If the 140 jet ran good the day before you will need a bigger jet to run properly today. If the temperature is 50 degrees colder than it was the day before you can actually go back to your sea level jetting, a 160 main jet! If you don't rejet you can kiss your assets goodbye when you rebuild the seized engine. Air temperature makes that much difference!
http://www.4strokes.com/tech/howtojet.asp
For our first example let's say we find a new riding area WAY up in the mountains. Our jetting is dialed in for our usual riding area which ranges from sea level to 1500 feet. Our NEW riding area starts at 4000 feet and goes up from there. Going to a higher elevation will require will require a jetting change but which way? Like our fuel density, air density can also change. Higher elevations have less air density then lower ones. At high elevations our engines are getting less air, so they need less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Generally you would go down one main jet size for every 1750 to 2000 feet of elevation you go up (info for Mikuni carbs). If you normally run a 160 main jet at sea level you would drop down to a 140 at 4000 feet. Something else goes down as you go up in elevation is horsepower. You can figure on losing about 3% or your power for every 1000 feet you go up. At 4000 feet your power will be down about 12%-even though you rejetted! For our second example let's say we are still at our new 4000-feet elevation riding area and a storm comes in. We head back to camp and ride it out overnight. The next day there's a foot of snow on the ground the skies are clear and it's COLD! Aside from getting the campfire going and making some coffee you should be thinking about jetting again! Cold air is dense air and dense air requires bigger jets. If the 140 jet ran good the day before you will need a bigger jet to run properly today. If the temperature is 50 degrees colder than it was the day before you can actually go back to your sea level jetting, a 160 main jet! If you don't rejet you can kiss your assets goodbye when you rebuild the seized engine. Air temperature makes that much difference!
http://www.4strokes.com/tech/howtojet.asp
WOW, thanks for the super quick and helpful replys. After I posted my problem, I continued exploring on this sight and found the spring mod with the valve cap and I think Im going to give it a try. I was also hoping to get my jetting in the ball park. Where can I get the spring for the mod? I read somewhere its from a Bic pen, but I was wondering if there is a better one. Thanks again for the help.
lbjamm
Well-Known Member
I'm out on the plains in Northeast Colorado and I'm at about 4600 ft. My pilot is stock but my main is a 142 Dynojet and needle on third groove, also Dynojet needle. Dynojet numbers are generally different but you can google a conversion chart to see what the Mikuni numbers are. You will need to jet just a hair leaner than me. Before I moved here I was at 1500 ft with a Dynojet 150 main. Hope that helps.
I ended up doing the recomended valve stem cap and the and spring mod in the carb, and changing clip position on the needle . The warrior runs perfect now, no hesitiation and the horrible bog is gone. Thanks again for all the help, there is no way I would have figured it out on my own.
lbjamm
Well-Known Member
Awesome. Enjoy the ride! BTW. Where you at?
lbjamm
Well-Known Member
IDK where that's at. Western slope? I'm NE of Denver about an hour by Fort Morgan.
lbjamm
Well-Known Member
Yeah, now I know where you're at. Cool. Do any skiing or boarding up there?
lbjamm
Well-Known Member
I don't blame ya there.
