99 350 Engine oil

[saweetlou]

Hi Guys, need some help. I decided to finaly change my oil and what a Surprize I got, when I undid the bolt to dump the oil in my large margerine container it overflowed it in seconds leaving me a big oil puddle on my garage floor, I dont know what I was thinking lol. Anyways I need to know how much and what kind of oil I should use, I usually do a lot of winter riding as well. Any help please.

 

[Binky]

I use full synthetic 10w30 castrol. I suggest any synthetic. 5w30 is what's recommended below 0oc(32of), but I prefer the 10w30 all the time since it's air cooled. The quantities are 3.5l, 3.7 US qrts total amount, 2.9l, 3.1 US qrts if just changing the oil, 3.0l, 3.2US qrts oil and filter. I always add a little more on the dipstick, just to be sure the cooler is full when running. Hope this helps

 

[saweetlou]

Holy Crap are you kidding 3.5 liters, thats crazy, my little 250 Timberwolf only takes like half a liter.
Thanks for the info

 

[dazed1]

I use full synthetic 10w30 castrol. I suggest any synthetic. 5w30 is what's recommended below 0oc(32of), but I prefer the 10w30 all the time since it's air cooled. The quantities are 3.5l, 3.7 US qrts total amount, 2.9l, 3.1 US qrts if just changing the oil, 3.0l, 3.2US qrts oil and filter. I always add a little more on the dipstick, just to be sure the cooler is full when running. Hope this helps

Im shocked that running full synthetic does alright for you.

 

[saweetlou]

I only run synthetic in my 1994 250 Timberwolf.

 

[Glenn]

I run synthetic in mine too..Shell Rotella.

Watch out for 10w-30 or 5w-30. You want to stay away from engery conserving oils with friction modifiers. They often don't place nicely with wet clutches. But for the guys with the CVT, that's less of an issue.

 

[Binky]

The castrol is ok, I tried mobil1, I used to work at gm, and it gummed up and I noticed definite clutch slip, couldn't ajust to compensate. Had to rince the engine. So far so good with the castrol. I used to use the semi-synthetic but just switched to full. seems to be ok. The big reason I use syn or semi is because we ride mostly in winter and the bike sits between rides. If I used it everyday I'd probably use high quality normal oil.

 

[moorepowersports]

I'm not going to tell anybody what they have to run for oil... you can run whatever you want, but there are pros and cons.

Car oil (oil that uses friction modifiers) is absolutely cheaper than motorcycle/atv oil. Why wouldn't it be? Every car/truck in the world takes like 5+ quarts of oil that are changed every 3000ish miles. The oil is sold in bulk frequently and is universal to prettymuch every car engine.

Motorcycle oil is usually sold 1-2 quarts at a time, changed far less frequently than car oil, does not contain friction modifiers, meaning that it is only good for vehicles with a wet clutch (not cars), and is not subliminally advertised on tv/fliers/etc.

But for the extra $2 per quart why wouldn't you choose the oil that is formulated NOT to interfere with your wet clutch??? The only ATV that I have decided to safely run car oil in is a Polaris with a CVT transmission. The ultramatic yamaha's still have an internal clutch pack on the back side of the drive clutch that is oil bathed. (not positive if kawi/suzuki has an internal clutch)

I would stick with a good wet clutch compatible oil such as maxima or bel-ray... or amsoil if you are considering synthetic. Yamaha will tell you to use a 10W40 for winter and 20W50 in the summer.