aftermarkets

[johnsmith133]

hey guys. im looking for a je 10.5-1 high comp piston, kw +1 valves, +4 timing chain, (whats the most reliable cam that wont run hot and is a decent size over stock?). where can i get all of this new for a decent price. and im thinking of boring to 85mm... and have port work with a fmf powerbomb header to go along with my white bros e series. sound good? name some websites and opinions on doing these things. if u recomend something different. explain your reasoning as well. thanks sooo much guys

 

[Gen1Pat]

You've asked ?s that are gunna get a lot of opinions. So here's mine, lol. You can find JE pistons on ebay. Talk to some of the other guys on here that have em, they can tell you where to get a better price on one. A 10.25-1 Wiseco isn't much of difference and you wouldn't really feel it. You can't go 2mm over, but you can go 1.5mm. Will that .5 mm (4-5cc) variation make a difference? Highly doubtfull. You could always stay with the stock bore and run a 12-1. That would probably give you about the same power/feel as a 10.5-1 85mm. Up to you. As for cam, Web makes some of the best cams out there, maybe even the best. If all you're looking for is a good all around power increase the web .390 may be the ticket for you. If you want more go to their next cam. They are hardwelded so it's best to run the hardweld rocker arms. Some guys will tell you diff, but the way I see it Web didn't make rockers for shits and giggles. You can check with Megacycle, Powroll, and Whit bros., too. Will +1 valves make a difference? Imho no. Have a good p&p done, & open up the seats a little. That with the cam will make great power. Cam alone expect 2-3 hp for a stage1 type, add a good p&p you COULD get between 7-9 hp. All depends on cam and amount of port work. Higher the compression the more bottom end you'll feel, generally. If you go with 12-1 you may consider running a mid-top end cam. Just some suggestions.

 

[johnsmith133]

ok well i got alot of recomendtions for the 10.5-1 high comp with an 85mm bore. if i port that with an fmf and my white bros e series with a web .390 over how much of a power increase would i get? and the kw+1 valves. what do they do? are they worth it. does it benifit it in any way?

 

[beastlywarrior228]

ok well i got alot of recomendtions for the 10.5-1 high comp with an 85mm bore. if i port that with an fmf and my white bros e series with a web .390 over how much of a power increase would i get? and the kw+1 valves. what do they do? are they worth it. does it benifit it in any way?

that with a good port but stock carb id probably expact 30 out of it

 

[Gen1Pat]

10.5-1 is going to be more user friendly in terms of being more able to run pump gas. Any higher and you'll want to run something better than supreme from the corner station. I put a 10.25-1 Wiseco in my friends 88 warrior and he runs it on regular 87 octane without issue. What I mean is he hasnt't experianced detonation or preignition, but running supreme 91-93 octane, would be better. Thing is, you said, " get all this new for decent price", tells me you're budgeting. The JE is gunna be more expensive than the Wiseco. Especially the 85mm. 1st it's a bigger piston (bigger usually cost more), and 2nd it takes it's own gasket kit. You can save some money and go with the Wiseco and chose some thinner gaskets or have the head shaved .015" to raise the compression even more. With the head shaved that little bit you might get as much a 11-1 out of it. But that would require some number crunching that I just don't have the head for at the moment. You'll def hit the 10.5-1 mark. As for the Valves +1mm will get you more volume of air&fuel into the combustion chamber. Is it so much that it'll rip your arms out of their sockets? No. I really don't think it's worth it. Just having the valve seats opened up some will do the same thing. That's what my gncc&tt builder friend suggested to me when he did mine 2 weeks ago. I've been really impressed with the results. The purpose of the bigger valve is allow a bigger volume of air/fuel to enter the cylinder. But what you gain in volume you lose in velocity. Yes, porting is intended to increase volume, but if done right it'll maintain good velocity, maybe even gain some. That cam with GOOD p&p, pipe, piston, and increasing airflow into engine; I'd say you'd get a solid 10hp over stock. Do some carb mods or update to an Edelbrock and you'd get some more. Maybe as much as 13hp over stock. Another thought would be to install a hight perf cdi box. I can't run 1 on my 88 Warrior, so I can't say what the improvement is. I do have one on my 88 Honda 300 4x4 and it with the other mods I have on it blows the doors off the 2 stock 300's we have. Damn that was longer thant I thought.

 

[beastlywarrior228]

theres better carbs than the edle, any motor builder would highly recommend the fcr. the only cdi worth getting is the dyna programmable

 

[Gen1Pat]

I completely forgot about the fcr. I've never run 1 so don't have much experiance with em. How well does that cdi work? I have thought about getting a late model harness and stator to use it.

 

[johnsmith133]

wat r some reall good ways to lighten up my bike as well?

 

[beastlywarrior228]

none

 

[Gen1Pat]

Well, you could always convert to 3 wheels, lol.

 

[beastlywarrior228]

Drill some holes in the frame

 

[Gen1Pat]

Easier to lose weight yourselft then make a warrior lose weight. Maybe start the Atkins diet?

 

[beastlywarrior228]

Easier to lose weight yourselft then make a warrior lose weight. Maybe start the Atkins diet?

Jenny craig atkins is unhealthy duuuuuuuuh

 

[johnsmith133]

lol ha im only like 150 so im good. ha

 

[johnsmith133]

i heard reverse is heavy. is that removable or somethn? lolol

 

[Gen1Pat]

Got me beat by 30. Only thing you can do is remove anything you deem nonessential. Headlights, parking brake, shave the fenders. You could find lighter rims and tires and ditch the stock bumper, grab bar, and swingarm skid for aluminum units.

 

[87warrior917]

Run Razr tires, NOT razr2's. Razr front and back are super light, razr2 or similar tires like holeshot HD are heavy bricks of rubber.

 

['00 WO-YA!]

Open up the valve seats?? Ok, it's going to be impossible to not sound like a douche here but there is a proper area under the valve & it can't just be opened up, also the valve is what it is diameter wise, it has a seating surface that cannot be altered. If you want more area under the valve you must increase the size of the valve.
The valve pocket can be ported & the valve angles (valve job) can be altered for increased flow but the overall size of the valve seat in relationship to the valve must be the correct diameter in order for the valve to seat properly.
Moving on, personally with the stock carb & intake system the addition of the larger intake valve Will have minimal performance improvement, notice that I didn't say "no" performance improvement. Where the larger intake valve would be effective is with a better flowing intake/carb & a camshafts that Will push the torque curve into a higher powerband.
If you want the Web .390, get yourself a FCR 37 & use the Wiseco with no base gasket. I'd Prolly leave the CDI idea alone & use the +4 advance key for simplicity. This subject has been covered ALOT here, I know I've made many, many posts about it myself. Search it here & you'll find all the answers that you want man.

 

[Gen1Pat]

****! Sorry about my missuse of terminology/ poor explaination. Bowl blending is what I was talking about. Or the valve pocket as you put it. Shoulda laid off the hooch when I wrote that. lol. Another area the larger valve would work well in is if you're running really high compression, like 12-1 or more. As compression ratio increase so does the amount of vaccuum that's created when the piston travels down on the intake stroke. So it'll really pull in a larger amount of air&fuel then with the stock size.