Anyone ever run a Web .390 on stock springs?

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'00 WO-YA!

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I know it's not ideal but honestly I'll do it if I can find a Web .390 cheap enough. I'm lookin for a Web .390 or a either S1 OR S2. hotcam. I really just want somethin to throw in for the summer. I can't imagine that the profile of the Web is so crazy that I can't get by with stock springs for a short time.
 
Yeah,he's I understand, the profile lifts the valve off the seat more rapidly & closes is more rapidly, the valve movement speed is actually faster making it more difficult to control the valve. I'd still like to try it though.

it is your top end, i would not run stock springs myself, but i also just got done paying off the parts and labor to get my top end fixed lol. i would spring for the new springs also these are two quotes with some good info

Don't forget that is a hard weld cam and it'd be best to use the hardweld rockers. I'm sure there are people that run those cams without the h/w rockers, but those stock rocker faces are on the soft side for a h/w cam. Still you can't go wrong with web.

I've never bought from them. I didn't see anywhere saying factory Yamaha parts or such. It's not a bad price, but I think you could spend that money better. Using that kit on ebay will not allow you to run the web.390. Simply because the valve springs are going to be stock type, not high perf. Also the rocker arms aren't hard welded. It will cost you $65 each for the h/w rockers,valve spring kit w/aluminum retainers $72/$95 for the titanium retainers, and the cam is $148. That's w/o core charges, according to web's website. So you can see where I'm going with this. If money is an issue maybe consider going with the stage1 hotcam. When you compare the specs side by side, you'll see web shows their specs in sae, and hotcams in mostly metric. Convert the metric to sae and you'll find the hot cam has .002" more lift (ok not that much more) and it has 250 degrees of rotation at .039" of lift. That's 6 more degrees than the web at .050" of lift. The only other diff is the lobe centers are slightly more on the hotcam. So they are very close to one an other. I have the s1 hotcam, as do many others on here, and have been very pleased with it. I am also running stock valve springs and have not experianced any problems w/valve float, and I run my bike wot throttle for a fair amount of time on all the logging roads I have around here. If your valves aren't burnt, rocker shafts aren't worn, blah blah blah, you don't need that head rebuild kit. Just my .02.

hope this helped ya out
 
It'll Prolly be aight, I doubt I'll have the compression that you have but I'm sure it'll still run pretty decent. I'm gonna eliminate the base gasket while I'm in there for another lil bump, lol!


Just an fyi. For JE pistons .015" base gasket will give you a .000" deck. Personally the hotcam stage 2 would be my last pick for a cam.
 
The install instructions on the hotcams s1 had a detailed section for the rapter. Basically turn the rapter cam sprocket around and put it on the cam for the chain to be straight. In 07 Yamaha changed the cam profile for better midrange. My friend didn't have any money to rebuild his bike after the valve adjuster screw came out and busted the cam. Since I pulled the head there was no sense in not rebuilding the whole top end. So, as a bday gift, I rebuilt the damn thing. Another friend of mine, was given a late 2000's 350 utility bike, with bad rod, he gave me the head. We all know the heads themselves are the same and all I had to do was use the warrior cam sprocket for the cam to work. The locator pin is a hair smaller than the warrior, but works fine.
 
ask dean that 413 he is going to be running is a rappy cam i think
 
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Well the warrior sprocket is different from the rapter's. So, when I used the newer head (rapters' and utilities' use same head and cam) all I had to do was use the warrior cam gear. It gets installed with the timing mark facing out, like always. The locator pin is the same diameter as the warrior's, however it doesn't stick out quite as far (should have proof read earlier, sorry). I didn't have a new warrior pin, but the rapter pin has worked fine.

I will look tomorrow when I get to work, to see what the hotcams instructions have to say about the rapter cam install. They mentioned something about a bearing being different and having an o-ring, if I remember correctly. I'm gunna look up the parts fiche now and see what I can find. The cam itself should work fine, but you may need the rapter cam bearings.
 
Okay, just looked up the parts fiche for a 94 warrior and a 05 rapter. The inner bearings are the same, it's the outters that are different. I remember hotcams saying something about the outter bearing being a slip fit with the stock rapter cam, but it would need to be press fit to the hotcams cam. But, I will be sure to pull out the instructions when I get to work tomorrow. I'm pretty certain that I saved them.
 
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