Clutch problem!
- Thread starter codysisk13
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YAMAHAULER
Well-Known Member
what else can he do Gen1Pat? I can't think of anything
Normally the cable streches not shrinks what the hell unless the guy before put an extra clutch steel in?
Normally the cable streches not shrinks what the hell unless the guy before put an extra clutch steel in?
bones
Well-Known Member
im outta ideas ! how much play is there at lever ?
codysisk13
Well-Known Member
it dont have very much at all, pretty much none!
codysisk13
Well-Known Member
i have no idea yamahauler, i dont get it?
YAMAHAULER
Well-Known Member
there should be like a quarter inch of play in the lever
YAMAHAULER
Well-Known Member
hold on I'll show you a pic of my lever
jasonp
Well-Known Member
from what I can tell. If you have the correct free play in the clutch and it's still not working correctly then the clutch cover will have to come off and the clutch will have to be inspected.
codysisk13
Well-Known Member
ok i just checked the lever, and its around a inch or a little over of play
bones
Well-Known Member
i'd go ahead and try the new cable to see if could be the cable itself froze up but that just me ... you tried everything ells ... what do you think hauler?
codysisk13
Well-Known Member
thats what i thought at first jasonp, but im hoping not.lol
YAMAHAULER
Well-Known Member
play in my lever
clutch not pulled
clutch pulled
clutch not pulled
clutch pulled
jasonp
Well-Known Member
From the manual. It should be .2-.4" at clutch lever end.
bones
Well-Known Member
now it really sounds like the cable is froze up 3/4 of the inch of play should be plenty to get arm into the right spot
jasonp
Well-Known Member
once you get the correct spec and still doesn't work. you'll have to pull the cover.. which really isn't that hard. Most likely something having to do with the clutch drive and clutch dogs.
YAMAHAULER
Well-Known Member
if you have an inch or more of play at the lever then either the cable is binding up and not allowing the clutch to disengage or you have a inner clutch prob Try the new cable quick
Gen1Pat
Well-Known Member
Okay, if memory serves the 2 lines in the cover (they stradle the 8mm cover bolt) have nothing to do with clutch adjustment. They are only there for clutch cover installation. When the cover is installed the clutch arm has to be inbetween those 2 lines so the teeth on the clutch rod (piece the arm attaches to and goes down into the cover) mesh properly during the install. Now, with me saying that DO NOT worry about it. And again I'm saying that from memory.'
Cody, the very 1st vid, you had what is called clutch drag. If the cable is adjusted out (towards the rear of the bike) then the clutch arm does not get pulled forward enough for the clutch to full disengage when you pull the lever. That is why when you put the bike in gear with the rear end off the ground, the wheels would not spin when you pulled in the clutch lever.
In the 2nd vid you adjusted the cable tight (towards the front of the bike). After you did that you had what is called clutch slipping. If the clutch cannot release enough then it will not engage completely and will "slip" when the engine is running, and it will rev out realy high. So basically you adjusted it too tight. You saw this yourself when you had it in gear and were able to turn the wheels without pulling in the clutch lever.
We know that your clutch holds (as seen in your 1st vid). We also know that it disengages (2nd vid). So the clutch is working properly as far as engagement and disengagement is concerned.
This is what I want you to do. Use the new cable, you have it and starting with a nice new unit is better than an old stretched one. After you get that on, get that clutch arm back to where is originally was on the shaft that goes down into the clutch cover. Connect the cable to the arm, and to the lever at the handle bars. Have the lever adjuster screw turned all the way in (loose). Next, move the arm (at cover) back and forth, you'll notice it has a fair amount of movement. This is because it's teeth are not meshing the clutch yet, leaving the clutch itself fully engaged. To make them mesh pull the lever towards the front of the bike until it stops. Once it stops the teeth have meshed. In this position, the clutch will be fully engaged once you let out the lever during riding.
With the lever forward and meshing, slip the cable into it's bracket on the clucth cover. With the cable in the cover ( and the nuts turned out all the way to their respective ends of the threads) pull the cable forward until it stops (they arm STAYS still, do not move it, leave it where it stopped). It should stop at about the middle of the threads. Now that you have that set, turn the nuts in against the bracket and lock them down.
That should be pretty close to where it needs to be. Now take and adjust your lever freeplay. Turn that adjuster scew out until there is no more than a 1/4" of play between the lever and the lever's mount.
After this is done, I want you to put the rear end up in the air, and put the trans in 1st. Try to turn the wheels, they shouldn't, and that's what we want. Then, with the trans in gear still, pull in the clutch and try to turn the wheels. They should turn freely. If they do not, lossen the rear cable nut and tighten the front cable nut to pull the lever and cable forward. This will make the clutch disengage more. DO NOT turn the nut excessively, only turn it 1/2 (180 degrees) turn at a time, and recheck to see if the wheels spin free when you pull in the clutch.
That is a "rough" way to adjust it. I personally like to do it the following way. With the engine runing put the bike in gear. If it rolls with the clutch pulled in reach down with your right hand and loosen that rear nut, and tighten that front nut until the bike stops rolling under it's own power. Once you have that nut in the sweet spot, tighten the rear nut and snug the front and you should be good to go.
If you put the bike in gear and it doesn't roll, lossen the front nut and tighten the rear until it wants to start to roll. Once it starts to roll, just turn that rear nut the opposite way (maybe 1/4-1/2 turn) and tighten the front nut.
Cody, the very 1st vid, you had what is called clutch drag. If the cable is adjusted out (towards the rear of the bike) then the clutch arm does not get pulled forward enough for the clutch to full disengage when you pull the lever. That is why when you put the bike in gear with the rear end off the ground, the wheels would not spin when you pulled in the clutch lever.
In the 2nd vid you adjusted the cable tight (towards the front of the bike). After you did that you had what is called clutch slipping. If the clutch cannot release enough then it will not engage completely and will "slip" when the engine is running, and it will rev out realy high. So basically you adjusted it too tight. You saw this yourself when you had it in gear and were able to turn the wheels without pulling in the clutch lever.
We know that your clutch holds (as seen in your 1st vid). We also know that it disengages (2nd vid). So the clutch is working properly as far as engagement and disengagement is concerned.
This is what I want you to do. Use the new cable, you have it and starting with a nice new unit is better than an old stretched one. After you get that on, get that clutch arm back to where is originally was on the shaft that goes down into the clutch cover. Connect the cable to the arm, and to the lever at the handle bars. Have the lever adjuster screw turned all the way in (loose). Next, move the arm (at cover) back and forth, you'll notice it has a fair amount of movement. This is because it's teeth are not meshing the clutch yet, leaving the clutch itself fully engaged. To make them mesh pull the lever towards the front of the bike until it stops. Once it stops the teeth have meshed. In this position, the clutch will be fully engaged once you let out the lever during riding.
With the lever forward and meshing, slip the cable into it's bracket on the clucth cover. With the cable in the cover ( and the nuts turned out all the way to their respective ends of the threads) pull the cable forward until it stops (they arm STAYS still, do not move it, leave it where it stopped). It should stop at about the middle of the threads. Now that you have that set, turn the nuts in against the bracket and lock them down.
That should be pretty close to where it needs to be. Now take and adjust your lever freeplay. Turn that adjuster scew out until there is no more than a 1/4" of play between the lever and the lever's mount.
After this is done, I want you to put the rear end up in the air, and put the trans in 1st. Try to turn the wheels, they shouldn't, and that's what we want. Then, with the trans in gear still, pull in the clutch and try to turn the wheels. They should turn freely. If they do not, lossen the rear cable nut and tighten the front cable nut to pull the lever and cable forward. This will make the clutch disengage more. DO NOT turn the nut excessively, only turn it 1/2 (180 degrees) turn at a time, and recheck to see if the wheels spin free when you pull in the clutch.
That is a "rough" way to adjust it. I personally like to do it the following way. With the engine runing put the bike in gear. If it rolls with the clutch pulled in reach down with your right hand and loosen that rear nut, and tighten that front nut until the bike stops rolling under it's own power. Once you have that nut in the sweet spot, tighten the rear nut and snug the front and you should be good to go.
If you put the bike in gear and it doesn't roll, lossen the front nut and tighten the rear until it wants to start to roll. Once it starts to roll, just turn that rear nut the opposite way (maybe 1/4-1/2 turn) and tighten the front nut.
