Damn thing wont start & its getting really frustrating!

[urnvs]

I have a 2005 Raptor 350 that I just cant seem to get running. It started out with no spark & making a clanging noise when the engine was turned over. During troubleshooting I first discovered that crank position sensor was faulty so I replaced it but still no dice. I then replaced the ecu, which finally gave me spark but still no ignition. During the course of the troubleshooting the clanging noise hit really hard at one point, then completely stopped.

After I had spark, I noticed that the spark plug wasnt wet at all so I pulled and cleaned the carb. At this point, if I try to start it with the throttle wide open it will occasionally pop and send black smoke out the intake. To me its acting like a car would if the cams were out of alignment.

Im really stuck here as the manual, under "timing chain adjustment", says "adjustment free". Are the cams supposed to be aligned to the "T' mark when the cylinder is all the way up? If so, how can I check the position of the cylinder (is there an alignment mark for the crank)?

Any suggestions are welcomed! Im almost at a point of giving up and calling in a 'professional'...

 

[Rhyno]

I have a 2005 Raptor 350 that I just cant seem to get running. It started out with no spark & making a clanging noise when the engine was turned over. During troubleshooting I first discovered that crank position sensor was faulty so I replaced it but still no dice. I then replaced the ecu, which finally gave me spark but still no ignition. During the course of the troubleshooting the clanging noise hit really hard at one point, then completely stopped.

After I had spark, I noticed that the spark plug wasnt wet at all so I pulled and cleaned the carb. At this point, if I try to start it with the throttle wide open it will occasionally pop and send black smoke out the intake. To me its acting like a car would if the cams were out of alignment.

Im really stuck here as the manual, under "timing chain adjustment", says "adjustment free". Are the cams supposed to be aligned to the "T' mark when the cylinder is all the way up? If so, how can I check the position of the cylinder (is there an alignment mark for the crank)?

Any suggestions are welcomed! Im almost at a point of giving up and calling in a 'professional'...

Are you the only owner? It sometimes, helps to understand the bike's history. What did it do prior to not running? Have you checked the compression? The compression being out of spec can be caused by a few different things.

Yes, there is a mark on the crank/flywheel, that is (should be) in relation to the cam marks. It is also easy to try and read them when they are 180 degrees out of rotation. Pull the plastic plug on the top of the flywheel, on the left-side of the motor, rotate the motor in the direction that it operates, until the marks come into view. Rotating the engine backwards will/ can cause the marks to be off because of the slack in the timing chain. The timing chain's slack is kept under control by a "slider and spring tension." The bolt on the back of the cylinder, about mid stroke of the piston, right behind the timing chain, is the "Tension" bolt. The tension isn't adjustable.

One other important thing, make sure that the battery voltage is up to spec./ charged. A low cranking voltage can cause some "fooling" signs.

As far as the "Clanging Noises," it is very hard to diagnose without hearing it for myself. The worse case scenario could be connecting rod bearing/ wrist pin bearing failure. Hopefully it isn't that.....

I hope that this helps....... Rhyno

 

[Gen1Pat]

And check your cam and crank timing. Make sure the "T" on the flywheel is inline with notch in the inspection pulg hole. With the "T" mark set, remove the cam gear cover (top left slide of engine) and make sure the imbossed line on the gear is pointing to the little bump or tit on the clynder head (at about the 11 oclock postion. If this is good and the piston is at TDC your timing is okay. Another thing to check while the cam cover is off, is the timing chain. Try to lift or move it with your fingers best you can. It shouldn't move. You can also take the 12mm cap off and the spring out of the timing chain tensioner, then remove the tensioner body to see how far out the plunger is. Make sure to do this with the piston at TDC. If it is all the way out or if the chain can be moved with your fingers it is streched and needs to be replaced. If that is the case it COULD be the source of the clanging noise you're hearing.

 

[urnvs]

Where is the crank mark? I already have the magneto side pulled apart after replacing the position sensor.

As I was saying, the 'clanging' sound hit really loud once at one point, then vanished. I dont have a compression tester here but should probably get one.

 

[DeadLastRacing]

 

[Rhyno]

Where is the crank mark? I already have the magneto side pulled apart after replacing the position sensor.
............. one.

Both Gen1Pat and myself described the location. It can be viewed through the inspection hole. If it is already torn apart, then put the flywheel back on and rotate like I described.

There is also a picture inside of the Service Manual.

-Rhyno

 

[Gen1Pat]

You'll also need to put the stator cover back on to see the notch the "T" has to be lined up with.

 

[bones]

No need to put it all back together to time the motor . There is a timing mark on the engine case right above the crank and one on the timing chain sprocket at the crank shaft

 

[urnvs]

Thanks! Im going to dig into this again tomorrow evening and will report back

 

[urnvs]

Intake side rocker arm is snapped...that was probably the clanging sound, and one loud one before it stopped. The timing chain is nice and tight. Pulling the head to replace the rocker is just the top four bolts correct? Can I leave the timing gear in place or do I have to completely remove the chain too?

If I set the timing gear to center, I dont see any markings on the flywheel under the timing cover. Thats not normal right?

 

[urnvs]

Local dealers are closed until Tuesday. Can anyone recommend any place on the west coast that usually has parts actually in stock and ship fast?

 

[Gen1Pat]

You shouldn't have to pull the head to replace the intake rocker. Just take the timing chain, and cam sprocket off, then remove the 2 10mm bolts that secure the lock washer and cam retainer to the head. Once those are off you have clear access to the intake rocker shaft. Just be sure to stuff a rag in the timing chain passageway to prevent any hardware from falling into the bottom end, and tie the timing chain to the chassis with some string or mini bungie. If you want to replace the exhaust rocker then you have to remove the head. But, if it is in good condition I would just leave it be.

FYI- if the timing chain does fall into the bottom end, a magnet wand will pick it up and pull it out.

 

[Gen1Pat]

And to answer your question about the timing mark. There should be a "T" on it, with a thin line etched right infront of the "T". I don't know how you are looking into the hole, but if you look at it at a slight angle you can usually see it well.