Alright drag racing isnt really that tough to set up for. First off make your front shocks as soft as possible, this lowers the front end the rear shock should also be as soft as possible yet also not so soft that when you sit on it that it squashes way down. So you sorda have to find a happy medium, also you dont want it springing back up right away. This reduces weight on the tires. So if you can set the compression sorda low.
You want your gearing to be optimal speed, what distance are you racing? If its 300 feet then that sorda sucks, it really doesnt do anything to compare actual power, its all in who gets a good holeshot even someone with a worked banshee wont be able to beat you by much if thats how short it is. What you looking for here is precise gearing, when you break the lights at the end of the strip you want to be in sixth at about 3/4 throttle. This is pushing your motor to its limits on the strip. You dont want to be full out wide open before hand then your just losing time and you dont want to be too low in the rpm's as the motor with your parts is going to pull harder on top than down low. 500 feet is what a true drag race is, its a true test of power and speed.
One last thing, one huge mistake i see that you said was your going to be 22" kenda klaws. Huge mistake because one they are way too heavy, two they are 22", and three they are 6 ply. An amazing drag tire would have to be 2ply and in a 20" or 18". Klaws make an 18" tire thats 4 ply... that would make an alright tire. Lots of people have a certain tire they like, lots of people run cut turf tamers, which are great, they are super lightweight. What exactly are the conditions at the track? You have to do your homework before going there, trust me that sport is takin just as serious as the rest. You may think you have a badass machine but i can bet as soon as you pull into the place your going to see some worked... and i mean worked machines. And people do cheat... in there own little ways, some people know tricks and etc. But dont cheat, if you get caught you most likely wont be allowed to race there anymore not to mention they will tear down your motor.
You need to work on your holeshots, balancing your weight between excellent traction and a wheelie is what you need, if you can find a point that you can pull the front wheels off the ground a slight amount but still stay in the gas wot is excellent. That not only means excellent traction but also great power delivery with just enough slippage in the wheels to not flip you over. Also work on your shifting, you want to have the clutch in as little as possible, dont try not using the clutch, although possible, the rpm drop between shifts will kill your time. So from start to finish you should never let off that gas at all, shift fast enough it isnt overrevving, and still getting into gear. So its like dropping the clutch in every gear. Even if you come up against something worked over well. You shouldnt lose too bad, but it doesnt matter how bad you lose, its either you win or lose haha.