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warriorrider13

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I'm not sure if it is the battery because when it is charged up full juice it still doesnt start like the lights all work just it doesnt bang when I try and start it. I did a spark plug test ,it works good, main fuse is still in there. It needs 75amps to start!

Do you think there is anything else I can check?
I think it is my starter motor brush plate.
 
do a voltage drop test ...put meter on battery ,crank over like batman told you in other post , voltage of battery should not go below 9 volts while cranking ..if it does you have FAILED the load test ..a battery that is shorted out will NOT even crank engine over with a charger hooked to it ! if you pass load test and you still just hear relay clicking fast (like buzzing ) then check and clean all connections and try again if it persist then take a jumper and bypass relay . if after bypassing relay it works relay is faulty .... if not it is ....a bad battery (load test fail or shorted plates will both fool the charger you cannot test the battery with the charger) it will look like charger is working , but you cannot charge a bad battery the charger sets a surface charge on the battery and it will look as though it is charged. a METER is what you need to test this out ...after you buy your new battery hook up negative terminal ONLY leave positive off .... make sure key is off put a test lite betwween loose positive battery cable and poitive post if the lite lights up (in the quad stored condition key off) you have a drain and need to repair it or your new battery will be junk in no time ... o.k. class over beeeatch also try tapping starter to se if brushes are dirty some times after long sits starter brushes corrode and dont get good connection tap on starter while trying to crank ........................................................................................................................ ........................................................ DISCLAIMER: all these test are for someone that knows half ass there **** i did not include wiring problems in my diagnoses .. all test are considering wiring to starter is good and other wiring is good i have been a mechanic for 20 years so i know this stuff works so do not challenge my thinking or theories .. :p if by chance i may have overlooked something please add to this ......this is the never ending battery problem we need to all get this fixed LOL
 
oh yes I forget to mention the voltage test it displays 12 volts on the multi-meter.
I also disassembled the whole starter. Mark(super smart guy), cleaned the starter shaft (copper part)with a lathe.
 
oh yes I forget to mention the voltage test it displays 12 volts on the multi-meter.
I also disassembled the whole starter. Mark(super smart guy), cleaned the starter shaft (copper part)with a lathe.

12 when... When its on? When its off? When your load testing?
 
has to have roughly 12 when trying to crank if it drops below 9 when trying battery is junk ... did he clean groves out in armature ??? if you turn it on lathe you have to take and clean groves between contacts on armature out or you will short the windings in your starter motor ...CRACKER ;)
 
has to have roughly 12 when trying to crank if it drops below 9 when trying battery is junk ... did he clean groves out in armature ??? if you turn it on lathe you have to take and clean groves between contacts on armature out or you will short the windings in your starter motor ...CRACKER ;)

yes yes I used one of those tools dentists use to clean them out.
 
ok cpost exactly what you do and exactly what it does not do ... example turn key on put in nuetral hit start button and just clicks / spins but wont engage / no noise at all .....................then maybe i can help you better
 
well I turn the key lights can turn on, neutral light is on then when I go to start it it spins over just not fast enough, but the meter says its putting out 12volts. Then when I attach it to the charger/booster and turn it too 75amps it starts over no problem.

And then just yesterday I checked the negative battery wire/engine ground and see if that was the problem, but the wire look absolutely fine to me. I had to take the airbox off to get at this wire. So my dad trys to press the start button and it started right away.
 
well I don't know because he tryed it again after and it didnt work. So we thought it was one of the wires but they all looked good. So know where getting a new starter brush plate because we think its that.
 
well I turn the key lights can turn on, neutral light is on then when I go to start it it spins over just not fast enough, but the meter says its putting out 12volts. Then when I attach it to the charger/booster and turn it too 75amps it starts over no problem.

And then just yesterday I checked the negative battery wire/engine ground and see if that was the problem, but the wire look absolutely fine to me. I had to take the airbox off to get at this wire. So my dad trys to press the start button and it started right away.

Are you retarded lol? You can seriously damage your **** with that kind of amperage.
 
Did you just look at the wires, or did you disconnect them at both ends and check for a clean connection? When there's a bad connection it's because of a dirty/corroded connection just as often as it's a broken wire.
 
did you put the battery in it ( you bought the one that is in it?? ) because it sounds to me like you have too small of cold cranking amp battery . just because a battery fits doesn't mean it is the right size or amp.....the outside dimensions of a battery can be all different cca (cold cranking amps ) the plate thickness is what determines cca .....hence you just cant measure battery and go to wally world and get right one ..I usually go and get highest cranking amp that fits dimensions of my battery .. an electric motor will not draw any more amps than it needs , so a higher cca will not hurt your bike ...thats why some batteries at walmart are 19.95 and some are 69.99 the outside shell may be same size ( but my x wife was the same size as my new wife , but my x wife wasnt worth a **** ) kind of like your 19.95 battery ;D a too small of cranking amp battery will turn bike over a little slow and then it will act like the battery is dead , you put meter on and it will read 12.6 volts but will not crank because the battery heats up and when this happens more amps are drained due to heat ... that is why i believe that a higher cca should fix your problem ....the little boost you are giving it is boosting the cca because not all current is being drawn from your battery part is coming from charger
 
im sorry to say but I don't think it is my battery because the meter said it puts out 12volts (during load-test) and I tryed to start it with a car battery and that did not work. And my battery is not from Wal-mart! I paid about $60 for my battery from Royal Distributing. I dont buy parts for my quad from Wal-mart!
 
what is the voltage on the starter wire right at the post when you are trying to crank it ......you have to understand we are trying to help you over the computer ...if we had the bike in front of us we could have diagnosed it in about 10 minutes ...every time you post you have different symptoms so we are all just trying to give you educated guesses ... but i am telling you a battery with too low of cranking amps will give you all the symtoms that you explained ... just cause you paid 60.00 bucks for it does not mean it is the correct battery what are the cca of the one you paid 60.00 for (and there is nothin wrong with getting a battery at walmart as long as you get the correct one) ... if you do not want my help just say so and i will quit taking my own personal time to reply to your posts .....but if you do want my help you are going to have to be open minded and not so damn deffensive ....also have you tried pulling side cover off the motor , pulling the spark plug , and see how easy the engine turns over by hand ?? a tight motor will cause slow cranking ... if you pull cover off by shifter (plastic cover ) you can get in there and roll engine over by hand
 
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