powroll 430 cam

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357warrior

357warrior

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Dec 8, 2010
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With my build i cant find a cam to give me wat i want i have a hotcams stage 2 and a megacycle 450 and neigther isnt giving me wat i want. Tried them and there not giving me the punch i want, like my motor has no power and i think its in the cam. I have a full port and polish,shaved head, kibblewhite titanium spring kit, kibblewhite black diamond +1 valve, 3 angle valve job. I am looking for a powrol 430 if ne 1 has one for sale let me know of a price and pix.
 
Those are mostly top end cams and they tend to lose on bottom. Have you looked at Webcams?
 
Have you installed an adjustable timing gear? That way you can advance the cam timing to give a harder bottom end punch. I've advanced mine by 5 degrees. You can also try the mega 415. Btw, what carb you running?
 
No never bought the gear, and im runnin a ported keihin pwk36 with 38 pilot, 152 main ,and a djg needle on 1st groove.
 
Seems to me like its running super lean. What's the spark plug look like?
 
who ported your head? a head ported by someone who doesnt know what theyre doing will only hurt performance. i had that problem with the ported head i had on my warrior, it flowed a higher volume so it only made power at redline as it reached optimum fluid velocity.
 
Well that carb is not helping matters. It's a good carb but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have an accel pump. Get yourself a 39mm Kehein FCR and never look back. Just to the accel pump mod when you get it, and inspect the slide seal. Do those two things and use a R&D Flex Jet for mixture screw tuning and you'll be stylin! No accel pump on these quads kinda sucks. I ended up having to swap my good stock crank in for Hotrods so I only have a 357cc again but with 11:1 Wiseco and ported head with the .450 Mega and it still pulls the same. Had to drop the front sprocket down from a 15 to a 14 because I did loose that little bit of bottom end. But, now with the regear she pulls nearly the same and I'm very happy with it.
 
And take that pwk36 and throw it away. Bet something 38-40mm bore if your really running a stroker that thing is breathing through a damn straw.
 
Also, I had pretty much the same setup as you when I had the stroker crank and with 15/40 gearing running 21" rear tires I would accelerate up all kinds of hills. The only real difference was the carb.
 
Well my port job i port matched but i open it up all the way through and polished evrything. And the carb i ported out bigger as far as i couldvtake it. But befor i had a new sleeve bored and the head decked i had the jetting perfect and plug was greyish/tannish and now that i put the motor back together the jetting is off. Before a rebuild jetting was 45 pilot. 152 main. Dgj needle 1st clip. And it was dead on and now its 38 pilot. 152 main. Dgj needle 1st groove and its runnin a lil richer. The only thing that changed was the shaved head at. 0015 taken off and new sleeve bored to 85mm. So someyhing isnt working together
 
This is my motor build up
stroker +4 mm crank
85mm je 12:1 piston
.0015 shaved head
kibblewhite springs w titanium
+1 intake black diamond valve
3 angle valve job
.0027 head gasket
0 deck height
mgacycle 252x1
Ported head
ported keihin pwk carb 38,152,dgj 1stt groove
i did wat drw with rockers
smooth exhaust flange
 
Well for the carb i took the stock adapter from carb to head and took the head end and welded it to the carb and the air side is 2 1/2 then filters out to a 2x4 oval for a banshee k&n. And exhaust is a race series supertrapp ids2
 
36mm carb on a 388 build... That is your problem. And if you actually POLISHED it all then that's not going to help either. You want it to have a little roughness in the runners to get fuel mixing actions going. But honestly it sounds choked to death carb or port wise, but since I haven't seen said porting in person or picturs I can't say which.
 
Don't think its the carb at all mickey dunlap ran a 500 fst with a 36 mm carb. I'd say its the port jub.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9310 using Tapatalk
 
Well, the stock intake manifold flange is not exactly helping matters. Although you may have port matched it to the intake port size, it's still not very big. You'd be better off making your own out of steel or aluminum and having a silicone reducer tube join the carb to it. Also, if you did what I'm thinking you did with the carb and manifold, then the carb is probably mounted really close to the head. It has been discussed in great detail with cars that the longer the intake runner the broader the torque curve. So, if you carb is really close to the head, you may not be getting the torque curve that you are looking for. Thus, not giving you that expectant hit on the bottom end. I also feel that ditching that carb for a 39mm FCR is the right path to take. Accel pump with a nice big ole shot of fuel will really make he jump off the line!
 
Gen1Pat said:
Well, the stock intake manifold flange is not exactly helping matters. Although you may have port matched it to the intake port size, it's still not very big. You'd be better off making your own out of steel or aluminum and having a silicone reducer tube join the carb to it. Also, if you did what I'm thinking you did with the carb and manifold, then the carb is probably mounted really close to the head. It has been discussed in great detail with cars that the longer the intake runner the broader the torque curve. So, if you carb is really close to the head, you may not be getting the torque curve that you are looking for. Thus, not giving you that expectant hit on the bottom end. I also feel that ditching that carb for a 39mm FCR is the right path to take. Accel pump with a nice big ole shot of fuel will really make he jump off the line!
Click to expand...

Or Edelbrock which a few of us are using and dont have a problem on my 379 but my port and valve job was professionally done.
 
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