Seized Engine...HELP??

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gusmonster

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FIrst let me say... "I can ride 'em...don't know **** about fixen 'em".....

Top end was clicking really loud...heard metal on metal.... loss of power.... then it just seized up!

First question.... what could be the problem(s)

Second question... if and when I need engine work, what do you recommend as far as a big bore kit and set up? I hear people saying their warrior is now a 408... or even a 450.... but then they say they have had nothing but problems since they did it....

Looking for some advice before I take it into the shop and get RAPPED!

Thanks!
 
Could be one of your valve adjuster nuts came loose, happened to me, I shut it down immediately. I think the locknut wouldve floated around in the head after threading all the way off and I would've lost my engine. Happened on my 06 with 30/40 hours on it and it was within spec when I did my valve adjustment.
 
There is a number of things that could've happened in there!!! You are going to have to do some serious motor work now, time for a full service manual to be purchased. I would toss in a hotrods crank if you have to split the case. If you don't than just go with the minimal overbore (up one size) and just raise the compression to 11 to 1 if you want to still run pump gas. Large overbores are nothing but trouble!!! The hotrods stroker crank's connecting rod is over twice as strong as the stocker, and the crank gives you a 400 kit with no machining to the case. The four stroke tech kits and such are over 1000 and they still use the stock rod and crank, meaning it's weak and they have to machine the windage tray for clearance. The hotrods kit is also only a +7mm stroke, so you're motor will still rev fairly quickly and not just run like a tractor. The bearings and such are also much better on it, they are pivotworks bearings and also have a bushing on the connecting rod bearing. You are going to have to learn the mechanics to save some serious loot at this point.
 
Thanks guys.....

Boxhead.... Can you point me in the right direction of where to get a "hotrods crank".... and are you saying that I should go with the overbore AND the hotrods crank? I've taken the engine out of the bike (to powder coat the frame) but that's as far as it goes with the engine knowledge! HA! I can fix/work on basically everything else on the bike, but know nothing about tearing apart the engine... HELP!

So I don't get slammed on costs....can you give me an estimate of what it should cost to get this type of work done??? I mean if I am going to sink $1000+ I might as well just look for another used Warrior and transefer all of my aftermarket parts over??

Thanks!
 
awhile back i did some pricing on the hotrods stroker kit. i dont know if these prices are still valid but this is what i found. the best price i found for the piston and crank was 549 at www.motosports.com. the best price for the piston was from there for 219 and the best price for the crank was 288 from www.atvparts.biz. in the back of one of my mags i did find someone advertising the kit for 549. got too many mags in the "library" but as soon as i come across the ad, i will pass that info along to you.
 
Basically you need to just buy the clymer manual (or yamaha), they'll take you step by step on how to rebuild it. I'm not sure about the cheapest price you can find out there, so far deathshadow seemed to have gotten the best price for it. Make sure it's the stroker crank if you get it, they make a stock replacement that's the same quality also. There is no other way to get things done cheap, this would be a good time to learn how to rebuild the *******. Really it's not that bad, but take your time and use microfiber rags to ensure parts are VERY clean upon assembly, one piece of sand in there can do quite a bit of wear. Patience is a virtue in motor assembly.
 
Thanks... I appreciate the help! I'll let you know how things turn out!
 
Start by looking at the top end components. If your rocker is seized in place holding a valve down than replace the two rocker arms and the cam both. If you have quite a few years on it than it would be a good idea to do a valve job right about now. To see if you actually have to do the valve job do the standing alcohol test on the valves and see if the alky leaks past them. You'll also want to see if there is very many pits on them from corrosion, but that mostly happens to the exhaust valve (the pits form on the valve seat).
 
I am having the entire engine gone over....

Adding a new crank, cam and piston.... now also looking at a valve job.... anything else you can recommend while it is being done??

Thanks!
 
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