timing

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bart

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Does anyone know where the sticky is on timing a warrior? I have searched through these posts and find different things said about it, no one has gave a definite answer. I just bought another warrior, if I could I would post pics. t's pretty nice, got nice green stickers on black and white plastics, with the nerf bars around the foot pegs.
The guy I got it from said it just quit while running wide open. So I checked the spark, it fires but the spark plug boot is wrong for the plug so it may not be firing strong enough. The boot is made for the fat solid tip to be on the plug, the plug in it just has the threaded tip.
The next thing im checking is timing. the chain appears to be plenty tight enough by looking at it. The " F " mark on the flywheel is showing in the inspection hole on the case or flywheel cover. I see people asking about this but haven't heard an exact answer on which one should be showing. It would be hard to explain why it was running and quit if this timing mark was the wrong one. And for something to come loose and have it end up just like that is hard to believe.
It seems to be getting plenty of compression , it blows my finger off of the spark plug hole with ease, and if I choke it, it seems to make it crank harder. In fact at times it seems to crank like it's advanced to far.
The guy did say he changed the cdi and stator to get it running before when he got it. I am optimistic that this plug boot is the culprit. I had that happen before on my Honda 250 R when I was way out in the trails. It just quit on me. finally I got to looking at the plug and saw the same situation with the boot. the wrong boot for the plug. I made it really far like that but all of a sudden it refused to run anymore. Luckily I found a beer can and took my pocket knife and some rocks and managed to cut a small aluminum strip out of the can and rolled it so it would fit inside the plug boot and on the plug. It finally worked.
 
The rear shock on this thing is totally hosed. I haven't even done front forks on a dirtbike yet and I have to admit, I am a little worried about messing with this because of the spring pre-load. I don't want my face to get busted by a spring taking off because I don't have the proper tools for this. I've got plenty of clamps and stuff, but none that would be a safe fit. If anyone knows about this stuff can you share some knowledge? I guess I may be in the wrong category to be asking about shocks.
 
For timing, the "T" mark on the flywheel should be showing when the line of the camshaft sprocket is pointing straight up.
 
Hey thanks, I thought so. I timed the last one, but wasn't sure. It's better to ask a pro and know than just not be sure about it. Now to find out if the guy was BSing me about him having it running or what. He sold it to me with me knowing it didn't run so I'm not sure if it is a pride thing and he didn't want to admit he couldn't get it going or can the chain stretch so far to get it to the F dead on? Would it be possible that it did run like that? Could the woodruff key have broken or been not installed correctly and it moved exactly to the F ? Whatever it is I figure out I intend on letting that guy know. It's a really young guy trying to do his own thing so I would like to help him gain some knowledge. I will figure it out. Thanks for the information on the timing.
 
I wouldn't think that the chain could ever stretch enough to move from the T to the F. However, the chain may be stretched enough to skip a tooth or two, and in that case would need to be replaced. If you are questioning the timing chain, set the timing the correct way and if your marks line up correctly or is within a half tooth of being lined up, your chain should be fine. Also, check to see how much the timing chain tensioner is sticking out, as that will also indicate if you need a new chain.
 
So it turns out when I was looking at it in the dark, the cam gear turned back some so I wasn't even on the mark, the timing had been correct. The T was where it was supposed to be. So I started messing with that plug boot and the whole coil wire pulled out of the coil. It's just something someone rigged up. I had been getting spark when the plug was outside the cylinder, but it did seem inconsistent, I thought due to a bad ground because the plug was just hanging there against the jug.
So I guess I need a new coil wire, if you can get them without a new coil. Then again, do you guys think an aftermarket hotter coil is worth buying? I will check the stator after I get a new coil wire at least so I don't have to fight that. I really just don't want to pull that flywheel if I don't have to.
 
Cut the wire flush and it should screw back in to the hole. Its just a screw inside the coil that goes through the middle of the wire.
 
I prefer fixing problems rather than putting band aids on them. It would be unsealed and short every time I hit water and probably give me fits because it will always come loose again. I looked on ebay. I can get a coil and wire for a mere 17$ and its supposed to be high performance. I suppose in the mean time I could do that to see if it runs. But for now, can the stator be loose and still let it fire at the wrong time? I'm optimistic it was the coil wire though. I would think he would have caught that though. All the wires/lights from the console were drug clear down in the very front and tangled, the notorious clutch and parking brake switches were already by=passed. He did say he put a new stator and cdi on it. It can't be the cdi. I really do not want to take that fly wheel off , lol. Oh I gave it a shot of either, it cranked really hard but didn't start. It is getting reaction from the carb, I haven't really paid attention to the exhaust, but I seem to recall a fuel smell so I think the exhaust valve is opening. Oh I bought an R spark plug today so it isn't just a spark plug.
 
Not sure if I just took the first sentence of your response to Alex's suggestion wrong or if you were just being a dick. He was simply telling you how to fix it. Afraid of it getting wet, seal it then. Don't respond with "I prefer fixing problems rather than putting band aids on them". That's the way the coil is designed. I have screwed mine back in and sealed it and have had no problems with it. At some point in time just about every guy on here has had the coil wire pop out and just screwed it back in. If I mistook your intentions by how you worded your response, then my bad and I'm sorry. It just sounds bad every time I read it. But responses worded like that, intentional or not, will guarantee you get no answers to future questions or people will mislead you.
 
No im getting a new coil. It being loose and probably arcing inside there has probably burnt some stuff a little. A new coil and wire is only $17 on ebay. The wire is a little to short now anyway and can't really be routed properly and will always be a problem. It's been cut ad repaired before it seems. And what is the deal with people getting so worked up over some words that said nothing wrong? How do you hold a job if you are so easily offended ?If I get a new one I never have to worry about it again. And by the way , the admin needs to check this site for hackers. It takes me a very long time to even type anything on this site. I have to constantly go back and retype letters that did not register and can not post pics at all. even the space bar does not register at times. It is only on this site. others work fine. I'm no computer expert but have been told that is an indicator of a key stroke logger. For instance this little response took 15 minutes. And also I am an electrician, comm specialist and somewhat of a mechanic. I get on this site because even though I could figure it out myself, it gets you way ahead to talk to someone that has experience with specific machines. You guys have always been helpful and I thank you. It's really cool of people to help others out. Also hopefully someone can read my posts and learn also from the responses.
 
Also I never once disagreed with Alex, I even said I would do that to see if it runs and to further diagnose whats wrong. I'm doing this outside and it was freezing cold today, so I did not touch it. I did forgt to mention it being so short though. And even though it is a copper wire, being cobbled up like that for who knows how long could have broken some strands or allowed some oxidation inside the wire. I had to meg some 350 THHN once , it had gotten wet apparently. Even though the jacket was not skinned anywhere it would never meg out safe. So that indicated an electrical field and bleed off that was unwanted. I promise you Alex I meant no disrespect.
 
And yeah that does sound like a smart mouth thing to say. It wasn't meant that way. Like I said with having problems typing and posting I'm losing my train of thought and things come out the wrong way.
 
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