Warrior engine rebuild

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warriordriver350

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Sup guys im kinda new to this forum. It is the first time I am rebuilding a quad. I have a 1988 yamaha warrior that is looking pretty awesome but i had a crack in the piston between the rings. It never smoked or anything but since i want to restore this thing to like new, i was hoping someone could check this out for me because im getting a wiseco kit but before i spend $150 i want someone who really really knows to check out a few of my rebuild videos on youtube. It is not a music slideshow in fact i think i may be the first person to make a series of videos of the project. But i put in a new clutch kit made by EBC which i know i put in right but the plates seemed all different then the old ones. And i would like it if someone could give me advice because im starting to deal with alot of money in which for me as a 15 year old is hard to get so i could use the help.

thanx, Nathan

www.youtube.com/warriordriver350
:atv:
 
First off, Welcome to the site! Enjoy. Tons of info on here for yah.

Secondly, what exactly are you looking to get an answer on? What piston to by? Bore suggestions? Cracked piston sounds weird though. There has to be a reason it cracked.

As far as the EBC goes, the pressure plates look different but it goes together just as the stock one did. Plate and ring intermittent stack.

Looks like the quad will look pretty nice when your doen with it. Wish I had a work area as big as yours thou......

Don't fix your stock shifter, get one for a YZ250 and run a direct shifter setup. Also look into doing the Rappy 350 clutch setup. Eliminate your parking break and get a blockoff,
 
88WarriorBoy said:
Also Deadlast correct me if I'm wrong but you cant use a yz250 shifter on a first gen warrior
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Oh, because of the pull starter......yeah. if you eliminate that and get a reg cover for it you can, or make one from a banshee shifter.
 
Welcome to the site young fella.. I have some advice for ya.
First off I had the same piston problem with my first gen when I bought it. It had a crack in the piston from the scraper ring down the skirt. I think it was from being over revved? The first gens don't have a rev limiter.
But go with the JE piston kit. Their pretty good pistons for the price.
Make sure you check the bore first to make sure you get the right size piston.. If there's anything around a .010 discrepancy you may need to bore the cylinder out..

I say loose the pull start, and stock shifter linkage. Go with the YZ250 shifter. The shifter won't have the famous slop and play, and shift smoother.

I also found I hit my ankle on the pull start all the time. It was a pain in the butt (well foot I guess).. Also get rid of the decomp. It throws the exhaust valve outta wack all the time, and makes tuning it a joke..

I hope this helps you out man. If you have any questions, or need some advice I'm here for ya. :tup:
 
I personally would keep the pull start. It's great to have when the battery dies or starter takes a crap. Especially when on a ride. But, to each his own. If you decide to keep the pull start, get a moose racing steel folding banshee shifter. Just have to mod a few bends and you're good to go.

I'm glad you said something about the 1st gens not having a rev limiter, mathius. I always suspected they didn't have one. Guess that's why they are more ballsy then the newer ones I've ridden.
 
Gen1Pat said:
I'm glad you said something about the 1st gens not having a rev limiter, mathius. I always suspected they didn't have one. Guess that's why they are more ballsy then the newer ones I've ridden.
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I used to float the valves in mine all the time lol.
But It was a 366. I had the stage1 hotcam, and a 38mm Kehin carb. FMF powerbomb header, and powercore 4 muffler.. It liked to rev.
It seems to me that the gen ones have a little more jam too?
I don't really know if the rev limiter has anything to do with that or not??
 
That would be my guess because it seems like the power doesn't run out on the topend on mine at least. It acts as if the quad keeps makin power till I let off
 
88WarriorBoy said:
That would be my guess because it seems like the power doesn't run out on the topend on mine at least. It acts as if the quad keeps makin power till I let off
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Ditto! I've ridden a few 2nd gen customer bikes and they didn't make me wanna own one, just slow as ****. Then I hoped on my buds 88 and that thing just hauled ass. All stock, too! Needless to say I had to buy one. They just feel like they keep pullin hard till you say ,"okay, enough is enough." Lol. The cdi is the only thing I could think of that would be drastically different to make it feel that way.

I've never had any issues with the decomp on my bike, and I have the s1hc and have had no issues. I bought the mega cycle 252x1 from '00 WO YA! and I'm going to have to ditch the decomp rocker or cut the tab off mine. But, have to get the stroker crank before I can use that cam.
 
Gen1Pat said:
I've never had any issues with the decomp on my bike, and I have the s1hc and have had no issues. I bought the mega cycle 252x1 from '00 WO YA! and I'm going to have to ditch the decomp rocker or cut the tab off mine. But, have to get the stroker crank before I can use that cam.
Click to expand...

Well I'm sure that a little bit of red loctite on the adjuster nut would stop it from backing off when you flip the decomp.
But I still think the pull start is a pain. :tdown:

The shifter mod is a definite must though. Any shifter that'll fit will make a big difference. :iagree:
 
Yeah thats what I need to do soon is to get a shifter for mine, And all of these 2nd gen guys are missing out lol
 
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I've seen the intake adjuster screw and locnut come out on these bikes. I'll prob install new when I do the build. I have to ditch the tab/rocker for clearence. Because of the reduced base circle (if I remember right) it will hit the valve cover. I may even have to take some material off the cover for the clearence required.
 
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