Warrior Transmission (Stuck Gear)

[austin.colby]

Hello,

I just purchased a 1991 Warrior from craigslist for $300.00 (my first quad) and am excited to get it up and running. The guy that I bought it from also bought it as a project and didn't have the time to do anything with it. So far I know that the engine runs strong and that it appears to be stuck in 3rd gear (just a guess based off of low end torque and previous experience). I assume that the shift forks are bent and am going to start my motor tear down tonight. Gaskets are on the way but am waiting to order the shift forks until I can see what's going on. I just have a couple questions and wanted to get some opinions...

1. I guess no matter what, I need to tear apart the top end so I can unbolt the head from the case. I really hate replacing head gaskets but luckily it's not a vtwin...

2. It seems like most people favor laying the engine over on the stator side. I thought this might be the route I go...

3. Is there anything that I should be careful with or known casualties when performing this type of repair? I have read over the forums for the past couple days in preparation and have the full service manual but always value the "been there, done that" knowledge.

I know there are some good photos of the engine rebuild and have the camera and tripod setup for a full write-up since it seems to be a common issue.

Any tips, tricks, encouragement, etc appreciated and am excited to be part of the community. I have 23 acres out here in Keedysville, MD (near Antietam Battlefield) and am working on a sweet off-road course. Give me a shout if you're in the area and would like to help or come ride.

Also - I am removing the pull starter since I almost ripped my arm off so it is available with the starter sprocket. It looks like they are on ebay for around $125.00. PM me if you are interested with an offer.

-Austin

:atv:

 

[bones]

once you get in there look out for washer there are a lot of them in the trans make sure you know where they go/came from .... i'd also like to let you know i have a full trans for sale with the forks and shift drum or 60 plus shipping

 

[Gen1Pat]

Yeah watch out for those washers. There are 6 I think. Maybe one or two more. ALso, get a Clymer repair manual.

 

[austin.colby]

i'd also like to let you know i have a full trans for sale with the forks and shift drum or 60 plus shipping

I appreciate the offer bones and will keep that in mind once I get a better idea of what's going on inside.

As far as the washers go - Is this something that I have to be immediately aware of once I crack the case and start to separate it?

I'll try to find a Clymer's manual. Are there any downloads for one?

 

[bones]

hey as they can stick to the case sometimes and they are just about all different and need to go back where they came from

 

[alex456123]

pull start on a 91? whats the serial number on the frame? or does the engine say 1UY all over it? because you might be ripping your arm off cause your not using the Decomp lever lol

 

[austin.colby]

pull start on a 91? whats the serial number on the frame? or does the engine say 1UY all over it? because you might be ripping your arm off cause your not using the Decomp lever lol

I thought it was really weird also but apparently the previous owner decided to add it at some point and didn't bother completing the setup with the manual decompression lever. I looked all around the head for something like that and can't find a thing. I would rather just get rid of it anyway since it gets in the way of the shifter and I just don't see the need for it. If the starter breaks, I'll drag it up my driveway with my Jeep.

 

[alex456123]

well if ya want to know it should have a marking on the left hand side of the case. and if it is a first gen engine it will have a decomp lever on the front of the head on the valve cover.

 

[Gen1Pat]

And, you cannot "complete" the pull starter addition "fully" because for the decomp to even work you need the "special" 1st gen rocker arm.

 

[austin.colby]

Well - I pulled the engine last night and was able to get a better view of what was going on...

I decided not to split the case because after examining the clutch side I noticed a pretty badly damaged screw and washer that bolted the **** cam dial to the assembly.

This was preventing the shift lever from moving at all and once I found a machine screw to fit, I was able to shift through a couple gears. It did however spin and was unable to figure out if I could move through all six since apparently the woodruff key was missing also. I'm not getting my hopes up yet but maybe this was the cause or an attempted fix by the previous owner.

This is the mess in the garage now... lol

 

[austin.colby]

pull start on a 91? whats the serial number on the frame? or does the engine say 1UY all over it? because you might be ripping your arm off cause your not using the Decomp lever lol

It definitely is marked with 1UY on the case and the 10th digit of the VIN is "M", which according to the decoder, is a 1991. I think the pull start was added and I looked all over the head and removed the valve cover and didn't see a decomp lever. The pull start has been removed now and just need to order the left outer case. There were only two bolts holding it in and all the rest were broken off. Guess it's time for drilling...

 

[Gen1Pat]

Just be carefull drilling them screws. I had to do that on my buds warrior. Got them out, but, ovaled the holes some. Still works good, though. I would just order the "shift star" and it's mounting hardware. I'd be leary of trying it again. So long as it goes in all gears now, and there are no adnormal engine noises, you shouldn't have to do anything to the bottom end at all. You lucked out , dude!

 

[austin.colby]

Well, it doesn't look like ebay or my dealer carries the "shift star" unfortunately and was told that I had to order the whole assembly. I guess it's off to Advance and see if I can find the machine screw and a woodruff key. Is there a specific part number just for that piece?

 

[Gen1Pat]

Yes, you have to get the whole shift drum. You'd just have to take the bolt and star off then put em on your's. But it will set ou back about $70.

 

[austin.colby]

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. I found a grade 8 screw at advance and a new key. Hopefully with that and some loktite, it should be good to go.

 

[DeadLastRacing]

Nice makeshift workbench. Hopeully you have this wardog back to life soon! I love a good resurrection story.

 

[austin.colby]

Nice makeshift workbench. Hopeully you have this wardog back to life soon! I love a good resurrection story.

It's a very portable setup... lol

Hopefully I can get everything cleaned up and pressure wash the frame and engine by the weekend. I have a used stock header pipe on the way along with gaskets and stator cover. Someone apparently decided to replace a good chunk of the exhaust with flex pipe. Can't wait to see what this thing has got left in her.

 

[alex456123]

i might have a shift star! correct me if im wrong i do believe the warrior and blaster shift drum are the same! ill give it to ya if ya wanna ship it.

 

[austin.colby]

i might have a shift star! correct me if im wrong i do believe the warrior and blaster shift drum are the same! ill give it to ya if ya wanna ship it.

I appreciate the offer but I think I have the problem fixed. I ended up purchasing a woodruff key assortment from Advance Auto and created a new key to work with it...

 

[austin.colby]

Day 2 and the motor is back in and started hooking things back up. The quad is shifting without any issues but of course, now the right rear tire is going flat. I bought a new oil drain plug from the dealer and managed to remove the stripped one without damaging the case. Looks like I am on track to do some riding this weekend assuming the gaskets and stator cover make it here on time...