weird sputter

[jpmiller1]

ok well then what do u think i should do i have looked on ebay and i found a mikuni vm performance carb for 260 bucks i was wondering if that would be a good carb for my warrior or should i just stick with the one i got and work with that

 

[Gen1Pat]

I don't know how that performs. Someone on here may know. I've never had any problems with the stocker. Several guys have the fcr 39mm if I remember right. Let a few more guys answer and go from there. If you wanna build more power a better carb is standard procedure.

 

[Rhyno]

ok well then what do u think i should do i have looked on ebay and i found a mikuni vm performance carb for 260 bucks i was wondering if that would be a good carb for my warrior or should i just stick with the one i got and work with that

A lot of people "over-Carb" their engines. Not only with Motorcycles/Quads, but also cars/trucks.

There is a formula to check if your motor is even capable of flowing a higher CFM(Cubic Feet Per Minute) of air flow. The formula takes into consideration, displacement (Cubic Centimeters), RPM's, etc.

Carbs and other intakes are rated (one of their ratings) by CFM....Cubic Feet Per Minute, of air flow.

There are certain cases where a "larger" carb is needed, but unless you drastically increase the Displacement, balance the bottom end (and get a $hit load more RPM's), add Boost, etc., most people won't need one.

But if it makes you feel better, to "BUY" something, then go for it.

You'll still have to go through the SAME tuning/jetting process.

Good Luck, keep us posted........

-Rhyno

 

[Rhyno]

Here are a few Online Calculators.....



http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html

http://www.wallaceracing.com/intakecfm.php

VE means Volumetric Efficiency.

 

[jpmiller1]

so i checked the needle setting out and it was on the fourth notch so i changed it and put it all back togather and it change a thing it ran just the same as it did before now what do i look at?

 

[Rhyno]

so i checked the needle setting out and it was on the fourth notch so i changed it and put it all back togather and it change a thing it ran just the same as it did before now what do i look at?

Fourth notch from the top of the needle or the bottom?

As silly as this might sound,........take off the fuel tank petcock and inspect. There is a plastic screen, that is a pre-filter, that can get clogged. Of course, drain the tank first. There are 2 small bolts/screws that hold the petcock to the bottom of the tank.

Two more ideas....

There is/was a small splash guard in between the main jet base and the "tower." It looks like a small bowl/ saucer. Most people have already removed them. If it's still there, take it out and toss.

And the "topic" that is recurring.....

Float height....... If the float height is too low, the fuel bowl drains too quickly, making the engine "sputter" as it needs more fuel.

It also could be a combination of them all.

Take it for what it's worth......

-Rhyno

 

[jpmiller1]

thanks rhyno but i dont remember if it was the 4th from the top or bottom but it seems to be runing worse now. i rode it for a min today and it would barly run at all which notch should it be on and i know what that thing is ur talking about i will remove it when i get the carb apart again i will keep ya posted thanks

 

[Rhyno]

thanks rhyno but i dont remember if it was the 4th from the top or bottom but it seems to be runing worse now. i rode it for a min today and it would barly run at all which notch should it be on and i know what that thing is ur talking about i will remove it when i get the carb apart again i will keep ya posted thanks

The actual "Position" is not only dependent on Main jet size, but engine demands and altitude.

I have been told that it comes from the factory in the 3 position from the top.

If it were mine, I'd go 2 positions in the opposite direction, and try it. And then address the other possible items.

-Rhyno

 

[jpmiller1]

took the sauser off and change the positon of the needle and its running like **** still it seems like now that the ignition is fucked up it wont rev off idle

 

[Rhyno]

took the sauser off and change the positon of the needle and its running like **** still it seems like now that the ignition is fucked up it wont rev off idle

What you are describing could be the E-Brake system. I think that Yamaha called it TORS or something like it.

Basically, when the E-Brake is engaged, the ignition is limited. It won't rev up and run smoothly. It'll idle, but not much else.

I'd start looking in that direction....

-Rhyno