You'd probably be better just to wait off till the stealership opens unless you want to make one because if you order one it won't be in for 3-5 days but if you want to make one I found a post that was posted on another forum best of luck man
i bought as parts that had this prob, sheared 3 keys before coming here (that wont happen again), the answers on this subject in this thread are dead on and worked awesome for me. I asked my machinist guy if he thought i could make my own from 1/4" square key stock (to keep from payin local dealership crazy prices) and he said yes it will work, and it may be the desired approach for someone who has really boogered things up because they could custom fit it to the damaged keyway and slot. Somehow my stuff wasnt damaged enough to go this route. With vernier scale in hand i measured what was left of the keys and found they are metric (duh lol), no metrics on hand here locally for me, so I decided to try a 3/16ths being it is almost identical in size (3/16ths is less than .009 smaller than 5mm, not enough to cause any timing issues and the morse taper is supposed to handle the majority of the work). I found napa/lowes/any hardware store w/ real selection has these on the shelf, its working at a fraction of the cost and no order n wait time. The cheapest i could find the "right" one for it was $4.08+s&h, rip off, i got mine for .58 cents, so I bought 3 n only needed 1 once i lapped the rotor to the crank. Definantly should tap the rotor into final place w/ a socket or pipe, dont wail it, just needs to be firmly seated. Done deal and riding the warrior again. Total cost including lapping compound and 2 extra keys was $7.06. If there is a next time on this machine i will get a 1/4" key and belt sand it to 5mm. I will post here again if the 3/16ths key has problems or if i shouldve used threadlock to enhance the tapers grip.