oil flush?

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94warpig

94warpig

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My oil had about 2 hrs on it when I drained it. It was already black and gross looking. Should I do some sort of flush? If so how?
 
Nah. just change it again just before it gets black. It might already got the junk out.
 
the best flush with least amount of "shock" on a 4-stroke is synthetic oil or High Mileage oil.
These oils have an abundance of esters and other cleaning detergents that are designed to clean motors, allot of High Mileage oils use a ton of calcium for this and I'm not sure that would the best thing for a wet clutch.

Oil is one of my areas of research and I'm an AMSOIL dealer..
that being said my suggestion would be to get some ROTELLA T6 in 5-40, this is a FULL SYNTHETIC that is JASO certified (for wet clutch) with hardly any moly in it, It is a HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oil) that is also rated for Diesel use (CI-4, CJ-4). HDEO in full Syn. means the 40wt part of the oil at high temp will still only come down to very heavy 30wt in it's Viscosity index,which means it will protect better at higher temps and stabilize the add pak use at higher temps (the part that protects the engine), being a full Syn. diesel oil means it will have superior cleaning agents that are used to dealing with high mileage engines that produce soot, It will also protect better against fuel dilution (this is a big issue for ATV oil) fuel in your oil destroys the viscosity index which in turn ruins the add-pak.
There is alot more to this than described but these r the basics...

ROTELLA T6, 5-40wt, its in a BLUE jug and is only $19 a gallon at Wall-Mart.

I would run it for a month or so than drain change filter and do it again (once with a well tuned machine should be sufficient), than I would just continue to use this oil as a regular basis. another part of this the more choke and longer you idle the more fuel you will dump into your oil, same as for just riding short distances than shutting down.


hope this helps......

You may ask "why being an AMSOIL dealer, do I not suggest AMSOIL ?"....
Its expensive to use as a flush, ROTELLA's add-pak is just as good as any AMSOIL equivalent at half the price (scientifically speaking, I challenge anybody to produce a UOA saying differently). I run both in my machines (AMSOIL and ROTELLA), the only reason I became a dealer was to get GOOD gear oils for my JEEPS at dealer cost, cuz AMSOIL is deffenitly good stuff but a boutique oil none the less.
 
Last edited:
wsar10 said:
the best flush with least amount of "shock" on a 4-stroke is synthetic oil or High Mileage oil.
These oils have an abundance of esters and other cleaning detergents that are designed to clean motors, allot of High Mileage oils use a ton of calcium for this and I'm not sure that would the best thing for a wet clutch.

Oil is one of my areas of research and I'm an AMSOIL dealer..
that being said my suggestion would be to get some ROTELLA T6 in 5-40, this is a FULL SYNTHETIC that is JASO certified (for wet clutch) with hardly any Boron in it, It is a HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oil) that is also rated for Diesel use (CI-4, CJ-4). HDEO in full Syn. means the 40wt part of the oil at high temp will still only come down to very heavy 30wt in it's Viscosity index,which means it will protect better at higher temps and stabilize the add pak use at higher temps (the part that protects the engine), being a full Syn. diesel oil means it will have superior cleaning agents that are used to dealing with high mileage engines that produce soot, It will also protect better against fuel dilution (this is a big issue for ATV oil) fuel in your oil destroys the viscosity index which in turn ruins the add-pak.
There is alot more to this than described but these r the basics...

ROTELLA T6, 5-40wt, its in a BLUE jug and is only $19 a gallon at Wall-Mart.

I would run it for a month or so than drain change filter and do it again (once with a well tuned machine should be sufficient), than I would just continue to use this oil as a regular basis. another part of this the more choke and longer you idle the more fuel you will dump into your oil, same as for just riding short distances than shutting down.


hope this helps......

You may ask "why being an AMSOIL dealer, do I not suggest AMSOIL ?"....
Its expensive to use as a flush, ROTELLA's add-pak is just as good as any AMSOIL equivalent at half the price (scientifically speaking, I challenge anybody to produce a UOA saying differently). I run both in my machines (AMSOIL and ROTELLA), the only reason I became a dealer was to get GOOD gear oils for my JEEPS at dealer cost, cuz AMSOIL is deffenitly good stuff but a boutique oil none the less.
Click to expand...

Dude this is the best explanation for oil I've ever seen on the forum. Thank you
You can run synthetic as long as its wet clutch approved.
 
So should I just run the syn rotella all the time then? I really like the valvoline four stroke. Seemed to run better/ quiet on that. It has rotella dino oil in it now(wet cluch). But it seems to run louder and smoke
 
the DINO (over time) can cause sludge and darkness of your oil, cuz it contains wax and other types of paraffins.

There are allot and I MEAN ALLOT of "wives tails' "old way of thinking" and just plain out myths about oils and especially Syn oils. Wet clutches just dont like moly and sometimes boron. The only thing different (for the user) about syn oils are
1) longer OCI's (oil change intervals)
2) easier start is cold temp (lower viscosity index at startup flows and protects better against "dry starts")
3) better protection at higher temps (syn's stabilize there add-paks better due to higher viscosity index at higher temps)

and thats it !!

on the other hand they also have a higher detergent rate which cleans better and longer, This is why allot of guys dont put full syn in high mileage engines, cuz IT WILL clean deposits out that are preventing oil leaks. AND than you have leaks !!
 
I have the regular rotella in mine now and I wasn't impressed with it. Maybe ill try the syn stuff
 
94warpig said:
So should I just run the syn rotella all the time then? I really like the valvoline four stroke. Seemed to run better/ quiet on that. It has rotella dino oil in it now(wet cluch). But it seems to run louder and smoke
Click to expand...

Allot of average synthetics do not have the JASO-MA rating, but the T6 does so yeah you can run it all the time .....
Allot of guys on an oil forum I am a member of have for years in many different machines, myself included.
 
wsar10 said:
the best flush with least amount of "shock" on a 4-stroke is synthetic oil or High Mileage oil.
These oils have an abundance of esters and other cleaning detergents that are designed to clean motors, allot of High Mileage oils use a ton of calcium for this and I'm not sure that would the best thing for a wet clutch.

Oil is one of my areas of research and I'm an AMSOIL dealer..
that being said my suggestion would be to get some ROTELLA T6 in 5-40, this is a FULL SYNTHETIC that is JASO certified (for wet clutch) with hardly any moly in it, It is a HDEO (Heavy Duty Engine Oil) that is also rated for Diesel use (CI-4, CJ-4). HDEO in full Syn. means the 40wt part of the oil at high temp will still only come down to very heavy 30wt in it's Viscosity index,which means it will protect better at higher temps and stabilize the add pak use at higher temps (the part that protects the engine), being a full Syn. diesel oil means it will have superior cleaning agents that are used to dealing with high mileage engines that produce soot, It will also protect better against fuel dilution (this is a big issue for ATV oil) fuel in your oil destroys the viscosity index which in turn ruins the add-pak.
There is alot more to this than described but these r the basics...

ROTELLA T6, 5-40wt, its in a BLUE jug and is only $19 a gallon at Wall-Mart.

I would run it for a month or so than drain change filter and do it again (once with a well tuned machine should be sufficient), than I would just continue to use this oil as a regular basis. another part of this the more choke and longer you idle the more fuel you will dump into your oil, same as for just riding short distances than shutting down.


hope this helps......

You may ask "why being an AMSOIL dealer, do I not suggest AMSOIL ?"....
Its expensive to use as a flush, ROTELLA's add-pak is just as good as any AMSOIL equivalent at half the price (scientifically speaking, I challenge anybody to produce a UOA saying differently). I run both in my machines (AMSOIL and ROTELLA), the only reason I became a dealer was to get GOOD gear oils for my JEEPS at dealer cost, cuz AMSOIL is deffenitly good stuff but a boutique oil none the less.
Click to expand...


I ran this oil in mine... Then the rod broke in half and smoked the case too..
 
So should I just keep running what I've always run? What about a flush?
 
Run what you are comfortable with based on what you have learned. No need for us to get to technical or scientific. Just keep it changed regularly and you will be fine. Make sure it is JASO MA apporoved. :)
 
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