Adding an extra plate in the clutch pack

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dave76

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Messages
2,693
Reaction score
1
Location
Edison, New Jersey
Since this is asked quite often, I figured I'd make a tutorial for it. First I'd like to say you get what you pay for, that meaning there are a few clutches out there that are pretty cheap. These probably won't last long let alone the first ride, then there are the medium priced clutches that'll last longer but ultimately end up burning up anyway. Believe it or not and this is comming from Mickey Dunlap of Four Stroke Tech, who is an avid racer and has had his share of some extreme builds with the Warrior engine (current 446 stroker, the defunct 500 stroker) all use or used the stock Yamaha clutch plates, with the exception of adding an extra steel plate and using heavy duty clutch springs. A lot of people will defend EBC and Barnett because they had good luck with them but I'm just telling what Mickey said. The stock steels and friction plates run about $99 from www.yamahasportsplaza.com without springs or cushin springs (no one offers them anyway). If your into a serious clutch, DP makes one for the Warrior but will cost about $150, but will probably be the last one you'll buy. I use the stock plates and have had no problem with them. I installed the extra clutch steel here.

1085_clutch.gif
 
There are four thin steels and two thick steels in that pack. Why dont you just put all thick plates in. The added thickness will allow the clutch to absorb more heat without deforming, and you wont have a steel against another steel.
 
There are four thin steels and two thick steels in that pack. Why dont you just put all thick plates in. The added thickness will allow the clutch to absorb more heat without deforming, and you wont have a steel against another steel.

you can do this but this is the cheapest way to do it is just stack a steel on steel. Doesn't hurt anything. I should measure this but I still think one thin steel will have more take up space then 4 more thicks. I could be wrong there.
 
I haven't done this yet, but i got the extra plate from another clutch i got, but my question/problem is that my clutch slips badly, like even on snow if i shift it fast it will slip at first then spin. My question is, will the extra plate help this issue?

I know this might be a dumb question, because it should help it, but i just thought i would ask...
 
what will happen if your basket is worn and you add another steel? will it bind up more? anyone ever tried it? either way this and the rappy pulling system are gonna be one of my winter projects...
 
Seems like an irrelevant question to me, but then again I was just working on finishing off a keg so i could be wrong. But it seems to me that if you already have it apart to add the extra clutch plate, and there are grooves worn into the basket you should just get a fine file and smooth them out while it's apart. It'll take 10 minutes and remove the possibility of having the worn basket causing problems.
 
i was just wondering... i ended up tearing my parts motor 1/2 apart lastnight and found that its clutch basket looks great... ill end up just using it when i get around to swapping them
 
So is this going to make a noticeable difference with the extra clutch plate? And why does it make the clutch easier to pull?
 
sooo, has anyone noticed a difference? I could see how adding another friction and steel plate would work but steel against steel just seems like it would slip
 
yammirider1990 said:
sooo, has anyone noticed a difference? I could see how adding another friction and steel plate would work but steel against steel just seems like it would slip

Thats what i was thinking also but since people say they have done it and it works and you can notice a difference i just went along with it and i will eventually do it also.
 
Metal plates ride on the inside splines and the fibers on the outside so the metals can't slip against each other.... :p
 
yammirider1990 said:
sooo, has anyone noticed a difference? I could see how adding another friction and steel plate would work but steel against steel just seems like it would slip

yes, I must say this works well. I installed a Barnett clutch kit in my warrior this winter. I have maybe 2 rides on it, and the last ride I was on we had to go down the road to get to the trails from my buddies house (not past any houses or population). Anyway on the road I could feel the clutch slip if I got into the throttle, would have to let off and actually feel it grabbing as I eased off.
So earlier this week I installed the extra plate, and the thing grabs better than ever. I have not ridden it on a road for exact comparison, but I already know that it wont slip. Before the extra plate the clutch always seemed to grab at the end of the clutch lever travel, now it grabs mid way with the extra play, so its grabbing earlier and definitely has a much more firm engagement. After you do it you'll realize its how the clutch should have felt from the factory.
 
i know this is an old thread but, I put the thin steel and new fibers in my clutch and WOW! theres a big noticable diference from befor and after. Now my clutch is easier to pull in and grabs like it should best mod ever!
 
This is a great mod but has any one esle ever decided to take the wavy washers/springs out of the clutch to make it more direct? I did this to mine tonight alog with some othe stuff seems to be a good locking setup
 
Back
Top