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i cant say one way or another about clearance issues. i would assume you would be ok, but i dont have experience with cams or pistons other than 10.25:1. Btw you realize you have been wasting money on race fuel? that stuff isnt formulated for stock or mild engines.

Do you have a pull start on it? If you pull the rope is it SUPER hard to pull and do you hear the starter spinning? If the answer is yes then you need a new oneway bearing and you should get the one from raptoroneway.com also you should get a new 52 tooth gear at this point because when they...

12:1 is a lot of compression. when you start squeezing it that hard you must run race fuel and in my opinion you will wear out your one way starter being a lot quicker, if it isn't worn out already. You may consider the typical 10.25:1 piston if you arent planning on putting a ton of money...

does it have spark, does it have fuel, does it have compression? if you have all three of those things then chances are it will run

hmm this is interesting i have never heard of that either... might need to look into such a thing

you may as well find a wiring harness off of a running bike.... or build your own... you sound like a good candidate for the build your own route...

what jet are you having problems with?

so you think you have a short somewhere that is making the starter turn? i suppose it is possible.. i believe power goes from the key switch to the start button. when the start button is pushed it then goes to the solenoid and then to ground... so basically if unplug the solenoid after you...

yeah definitely. its actually not that it engages after its running. it never lets go to begin with. go with a raptor one way brand

excellent man you are welcome

hmm so after its warm can you adjust the idle and make it calm down? are you using the choke to start it and warm it up or just the throttle? most people here are loving the zoom zoom carb, some hate it. i have a zoom zoom, but it has stock jets in it. stock jets may be a thing worth trying

check the intake boot for cracks for starters... sounds like an air leak... does it get hot fast? edit: could also be the seal between the boot and the head or around the carb

ok cool, hope that truly does fix it and its just not a fluke. you may have actually cleaned up the stator connection when unplugged it and plugged it back in also... not saying i cant be wrong, just saying that i dont think the accelerator pump has much to do with cruising at a steady throttle...

yep im going to blame the pickup coil... check it with a multimeter... or i think maybe i read somewhere else that you already ordered a new stator...

eh "cuts out" is kind of a general description... mine would stammer and act like a complete piece of junk when it was getting wound out... no amount of jet changing or cleaning would fix it... finially i broke down and bought a stator and it runs beautifully again... start by testing your...

start blaming the stator... i fought my carb all summer and when i finally got pissed enough i changed that stator (which was showing half the resistance as it should) and things suddenly we back to excellent

the tires would like a 12x9 wheel... they are going to be super wide tho...

excellent! glad to help with something out of the ordinary... gives my brain a good little workout

ok here goes.... so your 4 bolt sprocket hub is holding you back. I compared the axle part number ( 3GD-25381-00-00 ) to other years of warrior and it appears the be the same, therefore you should be able to get a 6 bolt sprocket hub from another year and open up a new world of sprocket...

sounds like maybe the starter clutch is junk... hard to tell tho... you can take the stator housing off and the flywheel and check the condition of all that stuff. you will probably need the special flywheel puller