+1 intake worth the trouble????

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On the "suspension" you were referring too on the intake port: The intake cannot be smooth as glass, it has to have some "roughness" to it, so the fuel atomizes better for a better burn quality. I think that the +1 will be best used on engines with big cams, big bores, and big displacement. I'll be using one in the stroker engine; 379cc, Megacycle 252x1, heavily ported head, etc... Couldn't tell ya if there will be a difference or not. Need someone to install one in a completely stock head/engine, and compare. I think it was HotRod mag that did a great write up on how to porting. Was very good.
 
Gen1Pat said:
On the "suspension" you were referring too on the intake port: The intake cannot be smooth as glass, it has to have some "roughness" to it, so the fuel atomizes better for a better burn quality. I think that the +1 will be best used on engines with big cams, big bores, and big displacement. I'll be using one in the stroker engine; 379cc, Megacycle 252x1, heavily ported head, etc... Couldn't tell ya if there will be a difference or not. Need someone to install one in a completely stock head/engine, and compare. I think it was HotRod mag that did a great write up on how to porting. Was very good.
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Ya I know the intake port cant be smooth as glass. I just cleaned casting imperfects and a few other things and left it at what midway suggested.

See Pat your info is what I was looking for, considering Ill be running a big cam and a big bore!!! I just want it to perform good without having to tear down to do something later on down the road.
 
I know you said you wanted someone with experience or in the know, I don't have experience with bigger valves, but I know a little about flow as I have done plenty of small engines and quad and bike motors. I agree with Pat and with what you're doing (big bore, cam, porting etc.) you should see some benefit with the bigger valve. Just my .02 FWIW
 
I knew you knew what you were talking about, is what I was talking about. But, no one came out and said it in it's actual correct form: atomize.

But, yeah man, I don't think that it is worth the +1 intake if you are only going to run the s1 or s2hc, Web .390, or Web's s2. I think the 252x2 would benefit from it, but I don't think that it is worth it. The .440 Web and Mega 252x1 could use it and support it. I don't feel that the smaller cams can maintain optimum velocity with the larger valve and mild porting. Doubt anyone can feel the difference with the smaller cams and stock or +1 valve. Just good bowl blending with the stock valves will have great affects on performance. A friend of mine bought a late '90s warrior back in Sept. and it came equipted with (found out later once he showed me the cam card) a 252x1, FMF full system, K&N, a dome piston, and 38mm Mikuni round slide. Now, Idk what cr the piston is, and don't know if the head was ported, but it felt lazy compared to my current set up just buzing is around my shop. Idk what his gearing was, but he beat me in 3 or 4 out of 6 or 7 drag races and I KNOW my engine is built way more then his. His biggest advantage was his new RAZRS to my 35% tread Carlisle Strykers, possible gearing, and the 252x1 to my S1HC.
 
If you really want to do it right. This is all what I think makes the best running warrior and have tested it.
+1 intake. Good valve job. Raptor intake ported to 38-39mm. Head ported to match the intake. 38-39mm Flat slide carb with accel pump. .450 cam or web .430 either one would be perfect, I don't like the .440 lift cam from web. Adjustable cam gear to set cam timing perfect as usally it's off more then 5 degrees after playing with gasket height.. JE piston make sure .015" base gasket. Then .030-040" head gasket thickness for maxium compression. You can also have the piston skirt coated and top which will help keep friction down and wear and hold heat in the combustion chamber. Doesn't cost to much either...
(Personally I'd run the 12:1 piston with E85 fuel if possible and also run a hotrods stroker crank with this piston and use custom gaskets)
85mm piston has a .5 compression advantage over stock bore. So it's more like a 11:1
Get the dyna programable ignition so you can set a rev limiter and timing to 34-35 degrees total and a little more advanced on the bottom end (+1 or 2 degrees). (I can help if needed on what actual rpm)
Lighten the flywheel.
I would for sure run the stock head pipe (remove the weld on the inside) with a slip onthat is reverse megaphone like super-trapp or something of the like otherwise you will give up some hp.
 
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Gen1Pat said:
I knew you knew what you were talking about, is what I was talking about. But, no one came out and said it in it's actual correct form: atomize.

But, yeah man, I don't think that it is worth the +1 intake if you are only going to run the s1 or s2hc, Web .390, or Web's s2. I think the 252x2 would benefit from it, but I don't think that it is worth it. The .440 Web and Mega 252x1 could use it and support it. I don't feel that the smaller cams can maintain optimum velocity with the larger valve and mild porting. Doubt anyone can feel the difference with the smaller cams and stock or +1 valve. Just good bowl blending with the stock valves will have great affects on performance. A friend of mine bought a late '90s warrior back in Sept. and it came equipted with (found out later once he showed me the cam card) a 252x1, FMF full system, K&N, a dome piston, and 38mm Mikuni round slide. Now, Idk what cr the piston is, and don't know if the head was ported, but it felt lazy compared to my current set up just buzing is around my shop. Idk what his gearing was, but he beat me in 3 or 4 out of 6 or 7 drag races and I KNOW my engine is built way more then his. His biggest advantage was his new RAZRS to my 35% tread Carlisle Strykers, possible gearing, and the 252x1 to my S1HC.
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252x1 is a huge cam campared to your S1HC. So right there dynamic compression is less and will be more lazy the a smaller less overlap cam. To add to the problem the 38mm round slide carb is a pos in my opinion for this engine. You really need something with a accel pump otherwise it's this engine is going to feel lazy.

If an engine can breath easier it will produce more hp even at say .390" as a good head porter will pick up cfm everwhere on valve lift. I first ran the web .390 with my setup and it was pretty bad ass. The engine would torque and come in alot faster and have a really awesome mid range hit that would be awesome for the woods. (felt like amost the stock setup but more of everything) The 252x1 isn't as quick reving but middle and over rev it just kills.
 
I know it is. Two reasons why I'm running the 252x1 is that I got it new at a great price, and the stroker will help to make up for the bottem end loss of torque. I'll swap in a 252x2 if I feel I need too. This reminds me, I have to get the adjustable cam gear. I'm not a fan of the 38mm Mikuni either. Rather have the stocker. I'm having the flywheel turned, so that will help to put some snap back in her. The setup I have now is great for the woods. I just want more power, and something a little different.
 
I was hoping you would see this and put your input in Jason. I know you've run a bunch of different setups and kind of know what really works. Only 2 things you suggest that may be hard for me to do, is a stock header as I never got one with this quad and I dont have anymore good ones around. I do have a full Yoshi system though. And 2 I havent seen a programmable dynatek for sale in a while. Everthing else if I can Im gonna take it and run with it!!!

I am on the look out for a smaller cam for when I know Im gonna need down low power.
 
Gen1Pat said:
I know it is. Two reasons why I'm running the 252x1 is that I got it new at a great price, and the stroker will help to make up for the bottem end loss of torque. I'll swap in a 252x2 if I feel I need too. This reminds me, I have to get the adjustable cam gear. I'm not a fan of the 38mm Mikuni either. Rather have the stocker. I'm having the flywheel turned, so that will help to put some snap back in her. The setup I have now is great for the woods. I just want more power, and something a little different.
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You may just want to keep your S1HC and go back and forth between the two? Easy enough to change out and see what type of power you want. Close enough the the web .390 for basic compare. 252x2 is basically the same cam as web .413. All torque and low end cam shafts where the S1HC is more of an all around cam.
 
1998yamahawarrior said:
I was hoping you would see this and put your input in Jason. I know you've run a bunch of different setups and kind of know what really works. Only 2 things you suggest that may be hard for me to do, is a stock header as I never got one with this quad and I dont have anymore good ones around. I do have a full Yoshi system though. And 2 I havent seen a programmable dynatek for sale in a while. Everthing else if I can Im gonna take it and run with it!!!

I am on the look out for a smaller cam for when I know Im gonna need down low power.
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Full Yoshi is ok from what I can see by looking at the pictures. Looks like it tapers up from the end of the head pipe to the can? 1.5 to 2" where it enters the can? If it tapers up to 2.5" it would be even better. What size is the core, 2"?
Yeah the programable dynateks are hard to find, curve 3 works the best, I don't think they make them anymore... The vito's key is just a little much if it actually is +4 degrees more. (I never put a timing light on it) if you go over 35 degrees total advance I've found you loose power. The thing is you want to hold it to red line... The stock ignition curve retards to 27 degrees or so at 9k rpm.
 
1998yamahawarrior said:
Thats mainly what Im doing is cleaning things up and knocking down sharp edges. I did the same thing on my 2.3 turbo head and I can tell the difference especially when the boost comes on. Night and day difference. Before I even started to do anything I researched like crazy before I even got all the tools bought!! Im the type I wont do anything til Ive found all the info I can.

Me questioning the +1 is that there is not alot of info out there, especially on stock stroke bikes. And by info I mean proven info, not some joe smoe saying I did it and I think it works. Usually they did a bunch of stuff at the same time so they in all actuality cant say.
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I would love to say its worth it but I had mine ported and camed at the same time.
 
And does multi angle valve seats increase the flow by itself? I mean does it decreases the resistance created by the valve allowing more intake charge?
 
5 angle>3 angle

The 5 angle provides a "less abrupt transition" persay both will seal, and run good but the 5 angle is just a little better. But remember, when building a faster motor, the devil is in the details.
 
does the valve have enough meat to do a five angle job? This usualy is done only on intake or both? What are the tipyal angles on 3 anf 5 angle jobs?
Thanks
 
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