First time posting long time reader. Having problems with my 04 warrior. Background on the machine. Picked up used for $350, had been sitting outside for a long time. Carburetor was all rusted out so I put a zoom zoom parts carb on and got it running. After getting it running it was burning a lot of oil and had a very loud knocking noise coming from the cylinder head. Found that the intake valve adjuster had fallen out and that the intake valve guide was cracked. Also found the timing chain stretched. So had a machine shop put a new intake valve guide and valve in, plus new valve seals. Had the cylinder bored .20 over and installed new piston and rings. Installed new timing chain. Reassembled the engine. Removed parking brake and did wiring mod, also removed the factory clutch perch and installed new perch , also did wiring mod for the perch. I have another warrior and did the wiring mods the same way as on that quad, my other 2002 warrior runs great. Adjusted the valves per the service manual after engine was put back together. After breaking in the engine and trying to richen up the carb from factory all the up to a 155 main jet it will still sputter at wide open throttle. Swapped cdi unit from my othe good running quad with no change. Could this be a stator issues possibly? Also has new spark plug. Kind of lost on what to change or check next. Any ideas will help. Hope I have given enough information, if not just ask.
2004 warrior 350 wot sputter
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Stock airbox with new uni filter and stock exhaust. Just did a resistance check on my ignition coil and it was way out of specification. Just ordered one and will report back when it arrives. Also did the resistance checks on the stator, trigger coil, and pick up coil, found all to be within spec.
Well new ignition coil arrived today just three it on with no change. The engine will rev freely when just sitting still, but when riding with a load on the engine it still cuts out at anything close to wide open throttle. Also took the air box lid off to see if that would change anything, still had the very same results.
YAMAHAULER
Well-Known Member
What does the plug look like?
YAMAHAULER
Well-Known Member
My guess is its a bit rich a 155 main with stock box, uni and stock exhaust is a bit too much you should be running a 147.5 or 150 max
YAMAHAULER
Well-Known Member
May even be good with the stock size 145 main since the only mod is the uni filter
Warrior1996
Well-Known Member
I have a stock airbox and pipe, with just a drop in K&N filter. I run one size up from stock on both the main and pilot. (147.5 and a 45 if I remember correctly)
Well ive tried a couple things, installed a new stator, and installed a re-manufactured mikuni carb with stock jetting. Neither of these things changed the sputter. It runs a little better with the mikuni carb. I am going to start ripping the wiring harness apart and see if I can find anything. Also checked the engine timing, cam mark is very slightly ahead of the arrow on the cylinder head.
Well its fixed after many hours and lots of beer. It was the tors system kicking in. So I knew I had the parking brake delete done correctly, and heard that reverse also has a limiter on it. Had previously cleaned the ground at the reverse lever, so started by disconnecting the green wire at the reverse lever, , disconnected the reverse light indicator switch by the front sprocket, then swapped in my neutral switch relay from my other warrior that runs fine. When swapping in the neutral relay found the green connector full of dirt. Cleaned out connection, then test drove. Ran great with lots of power and no hiccups. Then reconnected the reverse indicator switch and the reverse lever switch and it still ran great. So it was just dirt in the neutral relay connector. Im going to order a new relay because the terminals on it are kind of rusty. Thanks for all the help.
lbjamm
Well-Known Member
No tors on warrior
