465 Warrior

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Bones you got some thrill issues bro ha ha that thing looks like it was made to disturb the peace
 
It's not mine just posting skank21's pic I'm try to find a cheap wr500 motor for one of my warriors
 
Thanks bones I've tried a few times but can't pics to work on any of my devices. Yes a wr500 motor would be way better especially for forward exit exhaust. What's going is a big bore ftz in frame drag pipe for a 250r. Designed for mid to hi rpms but I'm hoping to get cylinder port and head work done to match exhaust and 40mm Carb. With low gearing I'm hoping the 465 will still have some grunt. Oh ya the whole bike cost me $50 bucks and has new top end I see no scoring thru exhaust and intake. Good with mug?
 
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I was sure thinking he meant mig, but ya all gas wire welding ..
 
No similar it has a better mid range and "some lo". That just according to users off other forum's.
 
You might wanna look into hacking an inch or so off the stinger. That pipe is gonna push the motor really hard into the over rev..
How long is your head pipe?? Cause that could be a huge performance factor, and kill what that large chamber is trying to do.

Just remember this:
The longer your head pipe, the sooner the powerband will come on. And of course the shorter it is, the later it comes on.
I really did my homework on this with the trx250 FMF pipe, and after hours of crunching numbers, we came to the conclusion that a 13" long head pipe is about perfect with stock ports.
We also came to the conclusion that using thinner 2" OD pipe to make it works just fine to..
Another thing that might cause some issues is the static compression, and port timing.
The trx250r has a way more aggressive port design than the 465, and more compression.
Though knocking about .015 off the squish on your motor might make up for that, and push a stronger exhaust pulse into that huge ass expansion chamber. Thus allowing that pipe to actually work the way it was designed.. lol
(Though if you drop the squish to much you can kiss running pump gas good bye)

You might know all this stuff, and you might not.. I'm just giving some friendly advice.
 
Yes unfortunetly i did no math, what does concern me is the length of stinger and silencer may cause some heating issues. I was hoping the yz's (according to what i read more than the its) ports would be aggressive enough to match the 250rs. i cant remember the head pipe length right now but my pipe that i fabbed is 2" id all the way. i did get it started last night and i believe my mounts are sturdy but the vibration itself was retarded. right now im researching and designing several damping systems. Revs hard and fast though, enough torque to rock chassis upon rpms.
 
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Ya you might be alright. I'm running the IT jug, and their more designed for bottom end.
But dropping the squish a bit won't hurt anything, and would cure any pinging. Even finding a thinner head gasket, and the proper base gasket makes a huge difference. Just the gaskets alone can shave off .010. I like the moose gasket kits, their the best IMO. You can use the 490 kit for your 465. The head, base, and reed gaskets are the same.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-YZ49...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c8d7bcbc&vxp=mtr
 
Ok so I have most everything done, but the vibration is insane. i really don't know if the mounting matters at this point unless I could build it on suspension. Is there engine mods that can be done to aid the vibration dampening. I have already filled steering stem with oil and filled mounts and some of frame with silicone. Any and all help is wanted

http://www.zeronoise.com/automotive_noise_control/car_damping_compound_vb_1x.htm
 
I'm not one to say I told you so... But........

The mounts you have are actually amplifying the vibes.. Been there done that, and then started over again!!
You can't do anything to stop an old big bore from vibrating, rubber mounts only make it worse. But mounting it solid to the frame helps. you would be surprised how much the frame will soak up.

An anti vibe steering stem would help a lot with rider feedback though, and some flexx bars.
 
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Yep there's message in e2s. I'm still considering balancing crank to change balance factor. After hrs and hrs of research I believe a swing arm is where its absorbed due to geometric location and large sold mass. In a bike the vibrations are released due to suspension specifically the forks. According to Eric gore these motor worked best around 4000rpm but can be pushed to 7000rpm, so ifigured to set balance factor to have 4000 as sweet spot
 
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So I've got the swinger made thanks to the help of my dad, I was gone at wedding and it rained at home so in his bordum he did the swinger for me. Anyways ill be posting pics of swinger and kick lever, and mods of exhaust then test run to check vibes. Might take bit I just last moment bought a 87 warrior with yx600 motor in it so im tied up on doing fixes to it at moment.
 
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