another "where to spend my cash" thread

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miami1

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so im going to loosen my tight ass a little and throw some $'s at my raptor.

i've already got a clamp on k&n, oil cooler, and dyno jet kit (bought it before i knew you could just buy regular jets).

im thinking about the following

je 12:1 std piston kit

430 web cam & springs

hmf silencer

this is well within my budget so if you have any more reasonable ideas let me hear em'.

im not totally sold on the 12:1 set up but thats all they had listed in std bore and i dont want to bore the cylinder till i need too.
 
Idk that I'd do 2 jug gaskets man. I have a stock engine in my work are that I was lookin at just a few days ago & with no gasket at all between the jug & cases & the piston @ tdc it has nearly a "0" deck, no more than 3-5 thou down in the hole.

You really want the quench to be around a .040 range & I fear that placing 2 gaskets under the jug & the head gasket thickness will move the quench area out of that range. Additionally, I'm not sure that the engine would burn fuel as optimally that way, there may be less possibility that the engine would detonate with more compression yet having optimal quench.
Quench area has room for adjustment depending on engine setup but that's a science too big for this thread, as a rule of thumb .040 is about right. If you use the 12:1 be sure to polish the chamber nicely & this will also reduce chances of detonation.

I've thought about this quite a bit myself, you can also make yourself a pump/race fuel coctail & experiment on the ratio to get the octane "necessary" for the engine to operate happily.
 
im not skeerd of the new ball game, i just dont want to go too high in comp and lose some reliability. i dont want anything to "extreme" just like to be able to keep up with the 400ex's.
 
Thanks! I really think you could get decent compression with a 10.5: & no base gasket & maybe just the center shim of the stock head gasket "if" you stay stock bore. I haven't calculated exactly but I wouldn't be at all surprised if compression didn't jump to around 11.25-11.5:1 & I bet it would still run pump 93.
Now, here's where this gets a lil complicated, quench area may be a lil tighter than the .040 that is so often recommended. .040 is so common because it yields decent quench & is "SAFE". By safe I mean it allows for piston rock & expansion. Naturally with any up & down motion & wall clearance there will be minimal movement between the object in motion & whatever it's moving within creating a lil bit of a seesaw effect if you will. Anyway the rocking motion causes the piston/cylinder head "quench" area to be less on one side than the other, it's minimal but we're talking thousandths here so that's why .040 is safe. Ultimately with less cylinder wall clearance tighter quench area is possible but ya have to be careful. Piston to valve clearance also should be considered, aftermarket pistons usually have sufficient valve reliefs but it's best to be safe & check.
Later-James
 
this is an 07 raptor with not a whole lot of hours and no problems at all, so i dont believe ill be boreing it. i would like to stay around 11ish:1 but how thick is the base gasket? would this cause any timing issues
 
Weston, just be careful with whatever you do with the head gasket. Yamabond or Hondabond should work fine between the case & cylinder as long as ya don't splooge too much down in there. You'll really have to mock it up to check your clearance & go from there. I'd hate for ya to slam the piston against the head, lol!

As for the the effect on timing, if your chain isn't worn slam out it should be minimal, the tensioner will take up the slack. These machines won't time up just perfect anyway, it pisses me off! You can get an adjustable cam gear though.
 
I think it would be fine, again check clearances but it'd be good. Basically the larger bore will yield more compression b/c there's more swept volume, prolly around 11.5 to 1 but again, I've never calculated it. A lil less maybe depending on head gasket thickness. I know alot of guys use cometic & I've read that they have different thicknesses but I can't verify that. The stock gasket is a MLS gasket (multi layered steel) & the rivet (kinda rivet like, whatever) can be removed & the shims seperated, I've used the center shim with the stock jug & base gasket & stock piston but I haven't tried it w/o the base gasket. My mock up engine looks good for deck height w/o the base gasket but engine machining varies, check it.
 
And for those of you that at interested in how you check clearance u put a peice of hollow core sodar on the piston at tdc and that put the plug and put the head on but dont torque it then tear it back apart and use a caliper to measure it that tell you Clarence
 
Post picks of Greg's work if you don't mind, I'd really like to see it. You gettin a bigger intake & port work?

No problem i'll get some pics up, Im going to start a build thread so ill put them in there. And yes im getting +1mm intake valve

I have always used clay to check clearance, but thats a good trick I havent heard of
 
well ive been thinking more about going to a 366 with this whole project, seems kind of a waste not to
 

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