carb jet question? + neutral/reverse question?

[rjcornine]

Just bought my 95 warrior and has intake and exhaust on it alreaady just wondering if there is a way to tell if the carb already has a jet kit installed? Just dont want to waste the money on a jet kit if it's already on there.

As for the Neutral/revers to drive question.. when worm it will not go into neutral i have to shut it off then it goes freely. also goes from forward to reverse easily but then when you try to go from reverse to forward it's extreemly hard but can be done. like butter when warrior is off. i was thinking it had something to do with the clutch so i adjusted it again and problem still is there any ideas? (shifts 1-6 great just those 2 problems)

thanks in advance!
RJCornine

 

[yamarider]

To find out if it has been rejetted, the only true way to find out is to take the bowl off the carb and see what size main jet is in it.

The issue you're having with shifting is a common issue with the warriors, mine did it for the longest time before I got it under control. There are a number of things that all will contribute to this. The problem is primarily due to the clutch dragging. The warmer the machine gets, the more the clutch plates expand and the more it'll drag. Here's a few solutions that usually help:

- Try using a higher quality, motorcycle-specific oil. A better quality oil can help reduce clutch drag.

- Install an oil cooler. This reduces the temperature of the oil and the internal components, preventing the clutch from getting hot enough to drag badly.

- Replace the clutch if the current one is worn, has warped plates, or is poor quality (Tusk brand). Also check for a worn or damaged clutch thrust bearing, grooves worn into the clutch basket, or any other worn clutch components.

- Make sure the clutch cable slack is properly adjusted (sounds like you already did this)

It's just the nature of the beast that the clutch will drag some when the engine gets hot, but these things all will reduce the drag and sometimes eliminate it completely. With good quality oil and an oil cooler the only time my clutch would drag bad enough to give me trouble finding neutral or coming out of reverse was in hot weather during slow riding, where there's not enough air moving over the motor and oil cooler to keep temps down.

You can usually avoid problems going from reverse to forward if you pull in the clutch and throw it back into forward gear while the quad is still rolling a little. The gears are constantly meshed so you won't damage anything by doing this as long as you have the clutch disengaged.

 

[rjcornine]

alright i'll have to pull the clutch and check it out. is it a wet clutch? or shuold it be dry when you pull it out? also any seals need to be changed when pulling the clutch? also anyone ever install a fan in front of the motor? i have an extra radiator fan left from my 900rr that i might be able to hook up for slow trail riding. thanks for your help, RJ

 

[yamarider]

Yeah, it's a wet clutch. Almost any clutch on a quad or bike is going to be a wet clutch. Most likely you'll need to replace the clutch cover gasket when you take it apart, sometimes you can get lucky and it comes apart in one piece, i've never had such luck.

A cooling fan can make a little bit of a difference with the slow riding, it's not going to to as much as an oil cooler because most of the airflow will be cooling the cylinder head, instead of the bottom end components, where the cooling makes the biggest difference. But if you got the fan sitting around anyways, it's worth a shot.

 

[91warrior]

quality oil made a huge differance for me. i just ran cheap conventional oil for a while a few years ago, then i finally put Amsoil Synthetic for powersports (0w-40 i believe is the weight) and that itself made a big improvement. only every once in a while do i have problems with neutral but reverse i havent had problems with.

 

[rjcornine]

i am running semi syntheth 10-40 in there now i just got the big bore 397 kit put in so im doing the soft break in and then might start running the amsoil in it and see what happens. crazy what yamaha charges for the oil filters paid 13.75 for the last one. anyone know off the top of their head about how much oil it holds? i did the little at a time last time and forgot how much i put in there.

 

[yamarider]

It holds about 2 and a half quarts with a filter change. (capacity is actually stamped on the case next to the dipstick, for future reference)

There's no need to buy filters from yamaha. They're all about the same and there are some cheap enough that you could buy 5 for the price of one yamaha filter. I run Tusk filters in my quads and bikes most of the time, they're 2 or 3 bucks and side by side, they look identical to the 10 dollar filters and work just as well for me.

 

[rjcornine]

do you buy your tusk filters off line or from a local store? im going to prob order quite a few and just keep them on hand. thanks again for all the help. glad i found a forum that i can use for the warrior.

 

[yamarider]

rockymountainatv.com is the only place Tusk filters are sold. You might be able to find cheap filters on ebay too, i've seen them pretty cheap before for 3 or 5 filters in a package.

 

[jasonp]

quality oil made a huge differance for me. i just ran cheap conventional oil for a while a few years ago, then i finally put Amsoil Synthetic for powersports (0w-40 i believe is the weight) and that itself made a big improvement. only every once in a while do i have problems with neutral but reverse i havent had problems with.

I wouldn't recomend that light of an oil as it will cause the clutch to slip. I would try and stay with 15w-40 or a straight 30 or 40 oil