Clutch Basket

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deerman2701

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Im swapping parts from 1 bottom end to another and am a little confused.

i cant get the sprocket to move at all in neutral? is there any things i could of done in the basket to prevent that?
 
yea i kno the bottom end is a good one.


the sprocket spins fine in neutral with the clutch basket on so i kno its the basket cause as soon as i put it on the whole thing locks up.


so i dunno what else to try?
 
i meant to say, the sprocket spins free with the basket OFF.

as soon as i put on the basket on everything locks.


can i be putting something on wrong that would prevent it to spin?
 
does this look right? is that pressure plate suppose to be on more ? or is the arrow suppose to point certain what? and what are them indents on the plates? haha im so confuseddd
 
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yup your pressure plate is not installed right. you need to line up the marks / arrow when you install it. (you will see the mark when the clutch disks are out.
 
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There is one arrow on the preasure plate you've seen that and there is one on the hub boss you can't see it after you put it in so pull it back out set the timing marks and try it again
 
i tryed looking for marks but found nothing?


i will try lookin again i saw an arrow on the pressure plate but nothing on the boss, is it on the back?
 
also in the book it says the friction plate with the V notch goes against the boss, but all have V's except 1? lol
 
okay cool and do the arrows have to go any specific place in the actual basket? and what about the V marks?
 
The arrows don't have anything todo with the basket and what do you call "v" marks? And btw did you take the big wavy washers out the clutch pack?
 
i have friction plates, them metal ones, and 2 skinny little rings. in the picture there are marks on the friction plates like notches
 
Big rings with only 3 notches like indevidual splines? Take those and throw those in the trash! Those kill the clutch and smoke it rob hp and are just a pain in general
 
really? yea iwas reading in the book OEM uses em but aftermarket dont. so just toss em if its OEM?


they are smaller than thefriction plates and metal
 
Yes those thin spacer looking things there is only 2 of then and if you look at them they are kind of wavy and not flat if you. Remove those the clutch won't engage as easy it will be more grabby but your clutch will lock it a con better and the wear on the clutch will be reduced they put them in there from factor to make it more"user friendly" I had them in mine but mine kept destroying clutches so I tossed them and sha zam no more clutch problems that and adding a extra steel plate you will have a clutch that can handle 35hp with no problem at all!! I personaly like it better because I don't have to guess if its all the way engaged it locks it like its weilded together well maybe not that hard but close!
 
hmmm alright well im gonna try it all out tomorrow! thanks for all the info! i wanna get this thing runnin again!

1 more question got any idea on how to get a broke off bolt out of a clutch cover hole? its the one on the left side that uses a longer bolt and has the locating dowl on it. its sheared off.

if not think i can run without 1 bolt without leaks? thanks man!
 

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