First Gen Club

[primerk5]

Story Time Bump.

I just picked up my old 87 Warrior on Saturday. I had traded it back to the friend i got it from about 7 years ago. I think he rode it around the day i dropped it off and never road it again. A mutual friend borrowed it for a while but i'm not so sure it was actually run. I think the brakes weren't working or something because he had the front master cylinder apart and has a front and rear moose rebuild kit. I'm guessing he gave up on it after rigging some things and dropped it back off to the First friend. From there it sat outside for an extended amount of time under a tarp. Luckily, It appears other then being partially disassembled its not much different in overall condition then it was when I last had it. However, there are a fair amount of things that need attention, and there are a few things I would prefer to upgrade.

As I said it was partially disassembled. Mainly the brake and clutch levers and front fenders/hood. I got a box of fasteners with it that I was told were removed from it but I think a lot of it was extras as I've put back everything that appears to have been disassembled and can't find any other missing bolts on the chassis. The original Key switch was broken when I first had it so I just put a toggle switch on it. That has since failed so I removed it and rigged the wiring to get it running. It appears the battery had been installed backwards. and a fuse was blown causing there to be no power to the ignition/starter system. I have since fixed that and was able to get it to cranked up and running. It runs but not well. I took apart the carburetor last night, mainly just the bowl off and everything appears to be pretty clean. The biggest issue I had was it was flooding out all the overflows. I figured maybe the float was stuck or something, which is why I disassembled the carb. I found a tiny amount of crud in the needle seat for the float so I was hoping that was it. I put it back together and installed it only to find it still flooding. So either the needle/seat is goofed up or the float doesn't float any more or the tab the needle is on needs adjusting. I will work on that tonight or tomorrow i guess.

So, Since 87 is so specific on Parts, and I spent the better part of an hour going through this thread hoping to see some detail on 87 specific upgrade pointer/questions to find very little I'm going to be bothering everyone with annoying questions I should probably be able to find in the search that I haven't been able to.

I found last night that the Rear Sprocket Hub is loose on the axle. I have forward to back movement. I've seen so far that at least on the later ones that the hub is what wears and you can just replace it. A friend of mine had a later warrior and he said you just have to tighten the jam nuts way up. Like 200 ft lb. I'm not sure how you would do that with a spanner wrench since that's the type of Nuts on mine, and that doesn't seem like the proper thing to do, but I've read that same fix on a few other sites. I understand the 87 and maybe 88 has a specific rear axle.

What are the chances my Axle splines are worn?
Can I just tighten up the nuts, and does that really solve the problem?
Where can I get a replacement NEW Sprocket Hub? I'm not finding it anywhere for a warrior or 87 specific. Looked everywhere. (Bike Bandit, Lonestar, Rad, DuraBlue, eBay)
Does the later model warriors sprocket hubs interchange? For that matter Does the whole Axle interchange?

I would also like to upgrade my shocks. I'm not interested at this time in going wider. I've looked through the shock thread but since this is first gen specific question I thought I'd ask it here as well. I read on this thread that the first gen shocks are 14 inches and shorter then second gens. I was debating on buying Diamond J Shock mount to go to the yfz450 shocks. They are about 16.5 inches from what I understand.

Has anyone tried this setup on the first gen's? Does it Max at the ball joints at full droop?

And now for some enjoyment after reading through the garbage above. Here's a picture of it kinda sitting together. As of right now all the plastic has been removed. The wife Tells me Leave the frame blue paint the A-Arms and swing arm blue to match (i'll probably send it for powdercoat if I can afford it. and I'm going to get black fenders and maybe a new blue hood and gas tank cover if I can find it. I'll probably swap out the headlights for an LED bar light if the charging system can handle it.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Dballard87]

Tighten the big axel nuts on the back axel and it will tighten up your rear sprocket hub as for shocks you have to be careful if you want to go with anything other than warrior shocks on a first gen you pretty much have to do some sort of mod. I'm running 350 raptor shocks and extended my bottom mounts which made my suspension a lot stiffer so now I'm looking to go towards some banshee shocks maybe some double rates to offer better wheel travel.

 

[88WarriorBoy]

The sprocket hubs are interchangeable and yes the splines on your axle could be worn out. Heck the axle could be 29 years old lol. any more major problems or concern you can post hear or you can private message me. Welcome to the First Gen club !

 

[Gen1Pat]

Install a stock Banshee rear shock out back and contact WORKS for a set of front shocks. They tend to spring their shocks a bit soft, so tell them you weight about 15 pounds more then what you normally weigh. All the internals for the carb are the same as the newer models. Check your ball joints for wear. If it still has the 87 arms then you can pop for new ball joints on ebay.

 

[primerk5]

When my Friend first acquired it many years ago, (prior to my ownership) when he was going over it he found that the axle needed bearings and he replaced them, among other things. I don't believe it had a lot of riding from then till now other then when I was riding it. I'll be going over that as well though.

It appears to have removable ball joints. I didn't do a through shake down to see how they are, but my initial observations, they seem good. It appears there may be wheel hub bearing issues though. I'll have to do some more investigation to be sure.

Years ago I found an old truck frame the hard way and sheared off a Tie rod end. I welded it back together to get by so now I'll need to replace the whole link. Are the Tie Rods the same as the 2nd gens? Can anyone recommend heavier duty Tie rods. I don't intend to crash into anything but I would upgrade if I can.

Also, A friend has a 700 raptor, He installed a Steering damper in his steering. Is there such a thing for the warriors? I can see the advantage of this. I would be ok without it but being my Wife may ride this when we trail ride i'd like to make things easy on her if I can.

I messed with the float last night and couldn't find a happy medium between flooding or not running entirely. It does still float so I'm going to get a kit. I read online that the needle for the float spring can go bad causing it to malfunction. Whats the initial setting of the low speed screw on the bottom of the carb? It was totally tight.

And now back to the suspension. I'll Start looking into the Works shocks. The problem I have, As I said before, My wife will be trail riding this when she goes along. Somehow I need to set this up for me but still keep it comfortable for her. Which is most likely not possible. Our weights are significantly different. 120-195. I'm liable to just say heck with it and set it for me and let her deal with the stiffness.

You guys tired of me yet?
Thanks again for the help

 

[88WarriorBoy]

The Tie Rod's are interchangeable and upgradeable. You can go to rocky mountain atvs website and buy them.
The steering dampener won't cause a big enough difference to justify its cost (Several Hundred Dollars).
The Fuel air mix screw (Low speed screw) should be set at 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out from being fully turned in.
And the shocks might be difficult but a set of banshee shocks might be your best bet.
Also we never get tired of helping people like you. You are one of the few that see value in such an old machine. Most people would look at it as a pile of junk. So with that Thank you for fixing a piece of ATV history.

 

[YAMAHAULER]

Actually on a stock 87-89 warrior the pilot air screw adjustment should be 1 1/4 turns out

 

[Gen1Pat]

I wouldn't worry about the shocks being too stiff for her. The stock crap is going to beat anyone to death before aftermarket units. Get the dual rate springs with preload adjustability. That way you can back off on the preload for when she rides it. Will soften it up a tad if she feels it's too stiff.

 

[primerk5]

Thanks for the help thus far guys. You've gave me a bit to think on. I'm pretty sure I'll get Works shocks and find a good used Banshee for the back.

Had it running late last night. Looks like a new Float needle solved the flooding problems. I'm still going to have to get a Carb kit though. The top gasket is tore the bowl gasket isn't sealing well, and the O-rings on the plastic y thing look terrible. I'm going to run it through the gears some this evening, to make sure the trans doesn't have any issues. It shouldn't but just want to double check. 1st and reverse were fine last night.

I've decided to go over the engine, so a rebuild kit will be in order. It probably only needs valve seals but I'll freshen it with new gaskets and rings as well.

I may send the frame and Arms out to be blasted and painted/powder coated. What do you recommend? I've never been much of a fan of powder coat as it seems to chip easily. My friend with the 700 Raptor said he wouldn't go that route as it wouldn't hold up. My other friend is planning on sending his frame for his xr250r out this winter and wants to have it powder coated.

 

[88WarriorBoy]

Bump!!!!! I'm BACK

 

[bones]

About time where are bin 88

 

[88WarriorBoy]

Working like crazy, and been working on other projects also

 

[Bubba0]

Rebuild

I got a 87 that needs a rebuild and was wondering what the best set up was. Bore size, compression, cam, etc. I'm going all out.:atv:

 

[Gen1Pat]

I got a 87 that needs a rebuild and was wondering what the best set up was. Bore size, compression, cam, etc. I'm going all out.:atv:

Best way to sink money into a Warrior is with either a big bore kit from CWR (cycleworksracing.com) or big bore/stroker kit from FST (fourstroketech). FST is supposed to have a new big bore kit available now. Stay away from the Hotrods stroker crank. It's enticing, sure, but, not worth the effort (I tried it).

11:1 runs well on pump gas. Megacycle or a custom ground cam works great. Have not tried a Web Cam. Slip on muffle works great. A full exhaust isn't necessary. CDI is a matter of opinion. Porting, adjusting cam timing, larger carb, better intake...

 

[Bubba0]

Rebuild

Thanks Pat that was what i was lookin for :tup: i dont think im gonna go with a stoker kit but the 11:1 is what i had in mind. Are the hot cams as good as the Megacycle i know lots of people are running them?

 

[lbjamm]

FWIW the Hotcams can be ran with the stock springs.

 

[Bubba0]

OK that is the way that i will probably go then. For now any way.

 

[Gen1Pat]

Spend the money for better springs and run a cam that will give you a real performance leap. I've run the Hotcams. There is more "snap" but it's nominal compared to a cam from Megacycle, Web, or a custom ground unit. Yeah, you have to "spring" for springs. But, it's money well spent. Also, running the Hotcams on stock springs ticks and clacks a LOT. Even when adjusted to factory Yamaha specs and NOT Hotcams spec.

 

[Bubba0]

ok thanks guys 11:1 with a megacycle is the way im goin then

 

[lbjamm]

Yeah. Since you're gonna have it tore down already, might as well swap springs. That's why I told you about the Hotcams using stock springs. Can't get very much gain and still use the stock springs. I've used Hotcams and Webcams and the Webcam is way better.