2007 Raptor 350 build

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Parts are here for the head. Factory piston pin, good used rockers, Hot Cams camshaft, bearings, and cam chain. I'll need to measure piston to deck before I decide on the head gasket. I keep getting tied up with something and need to start painting the head before I start putting it together.
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I've been working on finishing up narrowing the front end. Tie rods are a PITA. I found a set of tie rods that will work with the 10mm -12mm tie rod ends. Now, the crappy cheap tie rod ends don't fit. The two on the inside steering stem hit. They are cast too large, hit each other, and bind. I ordered another set that look much more machined down and rounded off like the factory ones

If they still don't fit, I'm resorting to cutting the old tie rods shorter and welding them. This is keeping me from riding the quad.

Summit Racing decided to clearance out what they had left in off-road motorsports inventory. I got a great deal and ordered the last Streamline steering stabalizer they had. Also got some Torco break-in oil for the camshaft. It was kind-of hard to find break-in oil safe for wet clutches. I was about to buy some ZDDP additive. Apparently moly additives are the enemy in modern automotive oils and are what you should try to avoid.
Oh thanks for mentioning summit. I'm 5 minutes away so I'll see what they have.
 
Progress is slow. I might have it out running over the weekend if the yard dries up some. Even with some of the gas in the tank being old, it still fires right up.

Niche tie-rod ends for a YZF450 fit like factory and have alot of clearance. Tie rods are for a Suzuki King Quad and fit perfect. They are machined down to be thinner/lighter. If they do fail, I'll just machine my own.
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I plan to finish alot of projects over the weekend, including painting the head. Work has kept me busy. I can start assembly and final finish after the paint cures for a couple days. High temp copper should look unique.

Had to return the steering stabilizer as I didn't notice the stem clamp was so small. Have a used 11-way, rebuildable, Raptor 660 dampener from ebay on the way.

I need to dig through all my wheels and see if I can find a matching straight set for the new tires.
 
No real progress has been made in months. I'm dealing with weird health issues and just been busy with work. Bought ITP front wheels off flea-bay for a great price. Also mounted the lightly used 11-way stabilizer to the chopped up old warrior bumper I'm using. Still progressing slowly, though. Going to pick-up and build an "erector set" style 5x8' trailer this week. Plan to make it able to haul scrap, stuff for work, and this atv. And I'm fixing up a clean older F150 for a work truck.
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The head paint job is complete. I don't like how the color turned out, but the sanded fin edges look good. I want to get this done in-time for spring so I will be trying to get it running perfect, as-is with the old head, with fresh gas to take it on the dyno. I keep saying I'm going to, but I might have some more down time to actually do it. I'll finally tear it half way down and put this new head/cam combo on and see if there is an improvement.
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I also need to replace the oil cooler lines with better quality ones. The Evil Energy lines are leaking. After seeing the Summit brand lines at a friends house, I think they might hold up better. The Evil Energy fittings seem to be holding up great, but the hoses are leaking. These don't have high pressure, so I'm assuming the heat has broke them down.
 
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Honestly the copper is cool.
When I was researching for my oil cooler I found alot of bad reviews for the evil energy an fittings, apparently they crack near the nut. Given the vibrations and whatnot I spent the extra money on vibrant stuff and it hasn't done any problems yet
Using a trailer for an atv is a damn game changer. After a long day riding its a damn luxury to just ride it right up rather than have to stuff it into a van or lift it into a truck
(I know ramps exist but that's the first thing stolen if you park in the woods)
 
I'll have it back on the lift by tomorrow. I'll get pictures of the line leaks. The joints in the fittings aren't leaking, more like the rubber is sweating through. I did my due diligence and taped them up with thin masking tape to make sure they were clean cut, seated all the way, and I've since nearly bottomed out the nuts in hope of stopping the leaks. I also keep the stock filter cover with me incase the lines failed while I'm on a riding trip(budget pro tip).

I supported the lines enough that I was not worried about the fittings having to hold any force from vibrations. I know a lot of guys who use the Evil Energy lines for vents and overflow lines on their cars with great success. Typically, I have a tri-fold aluminum ramp for loading in the minivan. Plan was to keep it with me for the trailer, too.

BTW, when I say "erector set" trailer, I'm talking about the 5x8' from Northern Tool. With a simple deck, some extra support to the tongue, and some bigger wheels/tires, its as cheap of a trailer as you can get. BASIC TRAILER I'm not a fan of the new carry-on brand, and other copies, with their single bar tongue off the front. A trailer is much more stable towing with. a a-frame front mount. I could build one, but would have to do an angle frame with an upper rail support to keep within a budget. I want a flat deck. Used trailers near me are being posted near or over new prices. Be honest, they all use some cheap foreign components or they cost a lot more.
 

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