Have a question about transmission.

[beastlywarrior228]

I think $250 usd?

 

[YamahaNutz]

Agree that the fork surfaces look okay except for the up and down wear. The dog teeth and windows look fine on the gears(I've ran worse). Only thought I might have is someone ran it on old oil way too long, clutch was not releasing 100%, or it was being slam shifted without clutch. Oil does not lubricate well when it breaks down. And a clutch that doesn't release all the way can cause it to be hard to shift(with added wear).

If those shift fork shafts are worn down and grooved, replacing them with new or good used ones might be a good idea. The shift fork shafts should not have any noticeable wear. They don't see a lot of force if the clutch is properly released for shifting. Double check the clutch cable, and that it releases/engages all the way. Could possibly just get a whole shift fork assembly(new or used) and be safe.

The reverse lever is kind of known to get dirty and corroded and stick. If the forward lock does not engage, it might have held pressure on the reverse fork? They can be taken apart to clean up and re-greased. Upon reassembly, make sure the reverse linkage doesn't hold too much pressure on the reverse cam in either direction(is the linkage clean and freely moving?). The opening on the external shift lever should never be maxed out in either direction(forward or reverse). In forward, the transmission cam should have some force applied by the spring going back, and some pressure forward in reverse. Make sure all washers are actually there in the transmission assembly. The parts diagrams show them all.

Possible all this damage was caused by the forward/reverse lever not being snapped into either direction. I am not an expert though.

 

[Colt45]

Agree that the fork surfaces look okay except for the up and down wear. The dog teeth and windows look fine on the gears(I've ran worse). Only thought I might have is someone ran it on old oil way too long, clutch was not releasing 100%, or it was being slam shifted without clutch. Oil does not lubricate well when it breaks down. And a clutch that doesn't release all the way can cause it to be hard to shift(with added wear).

If those shift fork shafts are worn down and grooved, replacing them with new or good used ones might be a good idea. The shift fork shafts should not have any noticeable wear. They don't see a lot of force if the clutch is properly released for shifting. Double check the clutch cable, and that it releases/engages all the way. Could possibly just get a whole shift fork assembly(new or used) and be safe.

The reverse lever is kind of known to get dirty and corroded and stick. If the forward lock does not engage, it might have held pressure on the reverse fork? They can be taken apart to clean up and re-greased. Upon reassembly, make sure the reverse linkage doesn't hold too much pressure on the reverse cam in either direction(is the linkage clean and freely moving?). The opening on the external shift lever should never be maxed out in either direction(forward or reverse). In forward, the transmission cam should have some force applied by the spring going back, and some pressure forward in reverse. Make sure all washers are actually there in the transmission assembly. The parts diagrams show them all.

Possible all this damage was caused by the forward/reverse lever not being snapped into either direction. I am not an expert though.

OK thank you this helped me alot. I bet the reason that they got worn out is because when I got the quad from the last owner the oil drain bolt was stripped out then I got it loose and it was black which probably caused alot of that wear.

And I also had to force it from first to 2nd after warming it up then it would be fine which will probably be gone with the new shift forks.

So with the forward and reverse selector your saying that the rod should be minimally adjusted just till it completely goes into reverse and forward so its not pushing the drum too far right?

I'll clean and grease the lever it does work but I may as well because it doesn't lock down easy.

And I'm gonna buy all new shift forks and the rods but should the gears they push be replaced to?

 

[Colt45]

I think $250 usd?

OK thanks. I know it probably depends on where you get it done but I wanted to know a estimate.

 

[YamahaNutz]

On the couple I have owned, the reverse lever never just snapped forward. It had to be in a "sweet spot" to snap in, or it pops in immediately after letting off the clutch. All 3 transmissions I had did this. But after cleaning a couple lever assemblies, it went in much smoother. One was getting stuck, someone tried to adjust the linkage and boogered it up. I did adjust it back to as I described above and it worked very well after that.

Yes, I do believe you only want the spring pressure pushing on the forward/reverse drum and never a solid cam lever steel-to-steel contact. I rolled it back-and-forth not running to engage reverse with the spring tension slightly forward, put it back in forward, and basically made the spring movement near even.

The gear surfaces you took pictures of still look decent to me. The forks are meant to wear first.

If the oil was that bad, I'd definitely inspect the clutch pack and replace it if its not in spec or glazed bad. Remember this should run JASO MA2 rated oil(motorcycle wet-clutch oil). Regular motor oil can have friction modifiers that can swell or damage the clutch frictions. Some say they have been fine on regular auto oil, but I'm a believer in this requirement after flashing a newer clutch with little ride time.

And check that all the case bearings are still in good shape. They should spin free with no grit or wobble feel.

 

[Colt45]

On the couple I have owned, the reverse lever never just snapped forward. It had to be in a "sweet spot" to snap in, or it pops in immediately after letting off the clutch. All 3 transmissions I had did this. But after cleaning a couple lever assemblies, it went in much smoother. One was getting stuck, someone tried to adjust the linkage and boogered it up. I did adjust it back to as I described above and it worked very well after that.

Yes, I do believe you only want the spring pressure pushing on the forward/reverse drum and never a solid cam lever steel-to-steel contact. I rolled it back-and-forth not running to engage reverse with the spring tension slightly forward, put it back in forward, and basically made the spring movement near even.

The gear surfaces you took pictures of still look decent to me. The forks are meant to wear first.

If the oil was that bad, I'd definitely inspect the clutch pack and replace it if its not in spec or glazed bad. Remember this should run JASO MA2 rated oil(motorcycle wet-clutch oil). Regular motor oil can have friction modifiers that can swell or damage the clutch frictions. Some say they have been fine on regular auto oil, but I'm a believer in this requirement after flashing a newer clutch with little ride time.

And check that all the case bearings are still in good shape. They should spin free with no grit or wobble feel.

OK Thanks. I rode it for a couple years after I got it but the forks probably would've lasted alot longer if he wouldve changed the oil I'm just glad I changed the oil when i got it. I use yamalube 10w-40 which is for wet clutch and what the yamaha dealer gave me. I do hear it breaks down easier I dont know if thats true. Do you know?.

I did put in a new clutch basket, inner hub, and steel and friction plates. The only thing is I don't know how the Tusk steel and friction plates are everything else is oem. Do you know?

There's a couple bad case bearings so I'm just gonna replace them all and when I get the crank rebuilt I'll get them to replace the crank bearing that I can't do.

How do you usually replace the crankcase bearings? I hear to put them in the oven to take them out then a torch to put them in and also freeze the new ones. But don't know what temp the oven should be and I don't know if it will smoke up the kitchen.

Also how do you clean the crankcase halves I hear not to use water which i thought would be fine if i just dry it. And one last question when i did install the inner clutch hub it would stick out a slight bit on the splines that's normal right? I apologize for all my questions there's things I'm still learning and want to make sure I don't mess anything up.