How to get cheap and easy lowend power out of yamaha warrior

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Bigman12

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I have a yamaha warrior 350 and would like to get more lowend power. I do all trail rideing and like to do wheelies and mudding. When I bought the bike I was told it has a stage 2 hotcam in it and they say that the stage 2 cam gives mid to top end power so I don't know If it makes it lack lowend power but mine dose, there for I want to do some cheap and easy ways to make more low end power. I was thinking about putting different sprockets on it but I don't want to lose all my top end any help will be helpful thanks
 
change sprockets... that could help you for cheap. um open up your quad with more air flow. like open up your box. put some UM vents in it. get outerwears lid and get an upgraded filter from stock(if u havnt done that stuff already). if u have, invest in a decent pipe from stock and rejett your bike to match the amount of air and gas your bikes getting.making sure your jetting is correct is key. so that will help and its inexpensive. a pipe u can find a nice used one and as for filter that shouldnt cost you too much. hope this helps
 
also im not shur but i think if u down size the came you will gain low end power(not exactly shur) but correct me if im wrong anyone
 
I have a k&n fliter on it now and I don't want to open the air box because I like to do a bit of mudding so I dont want to take in water, and do you have any ideas of how I should change the sprockets and would a pro circuit t4 be a allright pipe?
 
johnsmith133 said:
also im not shur but i think if u down size the came you will gain low end power(not exactly shur) but correct me if im wrong anyone
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Well the stage 1 cam is meant to do the same as the stage 2. If you swap back to the 1, I don't think you'll gain bottom end? You'll just loose the top end power you have now. The stage 2 was designed for strokers, and big bores though. (So you could have to much cam?)
I think a gear swap is your best bet.. A powerbomb header is meant to give you more bottom end (matched with a decent muffler). And like John was say'n, you could open up the airbox.. You might have to piss around with your jetting abit to find the sweet spot after all that though.

You could also try running hotter fuel.. That is an easy way to get more bang for your buck! These old air cooled motors run way cooler with hi octane fuel like 91' (or whatever you can get at the pump), over say 87' octane..
 
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What sprockets I should use, I would like to keep some top speed but I also like doing wheelies let me know what you think, and would pro circuit t4 be allright?
 
i say 14t front sprocket. ive heard nothing but good from it. so id go with that to be on the safe side. t4 pro circuit i herd is good as well. i have a gutted white bros e series on mine and it has a nice power gain. powerbomb i heard jus quiets it down a bit with a slim to none powergain, but i plan on getting one anyways so w.e. but yeah the gas/sprockets/exhaust/jetting/timing would do u justice =]
 
88WarriorBoy said:
15 is more top speed than a 14 and goin from a 13 to a 15 is a night and day difference
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Oh.. So I was backwards. My bad.
Well you wouldn't wanna go lower than 13/40.. I remember my 366 wound out at about 45mph.. So yah..
If you have 13/40's now Bigman, I would just concentrate on the other stuff.
 
Going higher with the front sprocket will give more top speed and less acceleration. Going smaller will give less top speed and more acceleration. The rear sprocket does the same only in reverse. Go larger to get more accel and less top speed. Go smaller to get more top speed and less accel.

Really comes down to what size tires you have. Stock size, I've found 13/38 does well in the trails. 14/40 was too tall for me. If you're bike is mostly stock then it will have more difficulty pulling the taller gearing. Get the vito's key, it helps the bottom end come on faster and stronger, and only costs 20ish bucks.

The stage 1 is very close to the web .390 and does very well for woods riding. The only difference between the stage 1 and 2 is the duration, or the amount of time that the valves are open. You'd prob notice a better ride with the stage 1 because you wont have the more "top end happy" cam. Do the vito's, get more compression, port and polish, exhaust, etc, and it will better handle the stage 2 cam.
 
Also the numeriacal difference between the front and rear sprockets are: 1tooth on the front = 3 teeth on the rear. Keeping the 13front and going lower on the rear MAY pull better than keeping the 40 rear and going larger up front.
 
Mathius said:
Oh.. So I was backwards. My bad.
Well you wouldn't wanna go lower than 13/40.. I remember my 366 wound out at about 45mph.. So yah..
If you have 13/40's now Bigman, I would just concentrate on the other stuff.
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You sure about that top speed? My dad's trx300 4x4 tops out at 45-48 depending on the grade, and I FLY past him. My buds warrior does it with stock 13/40 gearing, too. I'd venture to guess mine with the 13/38 and the 22's hits closer to 60. May have to do a pace test now. lol
 
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