Idleing high now!????!!!

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
that's it that adjustment bolt on the trottle housing on the bars turn the threaded part out and the nut in towards the housing until the throttle has a tiny bit of play and then just snug up just until there is no play and you should be good to go
 
When you finally get your Carb Kit, don't use RTV to seal the fuel bowl and rubber O-ring. A lot of people feel it is necessary, but it isn't. Most of the time, people put too much RTV on, the extra squeezes out, and because you want to see and hear it run, you fire it up. Guess where that extra RTV goes? It gets pulled up inside of the circuits and causes problems later.

Sometimes it does a full seal of the circuit and most of the time a partial seal, delivering inconsistent fuel.

-Rhyno
 
well i did thread it all the way in on the throttle housing and there was still a gap like that in the carb?
 
well i did thread it all the way in on the throttle housing and there was still a gap like that in the carb?
Did you try the other way It's hard for me to remember what way loosens the cable sorry worth the try man sorry
 
did you route the cable so it isn't against something(frame bar) that will cause probs too
 
you said that when you disconnect the cable from the throttle box the slide in the carb goes down all the way right? did you try starting it with the throttle cable disconnected from the box on bars?
 
I agree, take the cable out of the housing and give it a try. Also, make sure the cable isn't getting piched by the fuel tank or something stupid like that. And you turn the cable screw in at the housing to lower the idle, out to raise the idle. Turning in will give more play in the throttle lever, and out will make the throttle lever tighter.
 
easier for me if I am doing it hands on then to try to think about how I did it in my head weird
 
it's not supposed to go all the way down or else it wont take in any air and wont run. you want about a 1/4 3/8 gap in the middle of the curve
 
well when i started it before I took the carb off and cleaned it and put back on it wouldnt start unless i pushed the throttle a couple times. but after i get the rebuild kit and put the carb back on i will try to start it with the throttle out of the housing for sure. thats a good idea, i dont know why i didnt think of that yamahahauler! lol any advice when rebuilding the carb?!
 
Use a GOOD regular screw driver to remove the pilot jet! Jets are made of brass and those pilot jets love to get stuck in their hole. You try to get them out with an old blunt screw driver and all you do is damage the slot. Put some downward force on the screw driver when you turn it. Spraying some penetrating lube on it will help, too.
 
i have heard when putting the main and pilot jets in its best to count the number of turns when you take them out and replace with the same number of turns in. if you know what i mean?
 
i have heard when putting the main and pilot jets in its best to count the number of turns when you take them out and replace with the same number of turns in. if you know what i mean?

Yes, they both go in until they are tight, but not stripped.

"The same number of turns" thing, is to get you close to where a good running carb, was running before. It also has to do with the "mixture" screw.

On some carbs, the "Mixture" screw controls the fuel and on others, it controls the air, when the carb is on the "Idle Circuit."

If your slide never gets released down and rests in the closed position, your carb will never use the Idle Circuit.

The Mixture screw, at least on my bikes, is rarely in the same spot. I ride at different altitudes and at different temp extremes. I adjust it with every change. (The motor will tell you when it needs to be adjusted, if you listen...)

The service manual, recommends 2 turns out from seated. That'll get you close.


-Rhyno
 
Back
Top