Im guesing its not good to have metal shavings in you oil filter?

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This is the first oil change I did since I got the warrior and I found these shaving on the oil filter cover.
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There's gonna be some shavings first couple changes after rebuild rings have to seat to the cylinder so some material will be in oil but it should clear up after about the 3rd or 4th oil change
 
There's gonna be some shavings first couple changes after rebuild rings have to seat to the cylinder so some material will be in oil but it should clear up after about the 3rd or 4th oil change

I didn't rebuild it. Maybe the guy before me did but he said he didn't. but then again he did say it does 71 mph and has a 17tooth sprocket... yeah right it has a 14 tooth. and does under 60. thanks for the help. should I just run it for a few hours and change it again and see what it looks like?
 
Isnt there a way to check the timing chain tension by pulling ou that bolt on the tensioner? It may have a stretched chain?
 
Yeah pull the 12 mm bolt and spring then take out the two
8 mm bolts and pull out the tensioner and see how far out the arm is
Put the motor at TDC first before loosening the tensioner
And pull the cam cover on head to see if the timing mark lines up when the crank is at TDC
 
Yeah pull the 12 mm bolt and spring then take out the two
8 mm bolts and pull out the tensioner and see how far out the arm is
Put the motor at TDC first before loosening the tensioner
And pull the cam cover on head to see if the timing mark lines up when the crank is at TDC

ok I will do that tomorrow. Thank you for all the help.
 
Ok so I took the chain tensioner of and it could still go out a 1/4 or an inch. I forgot to put the motor at Top dead center though:eek: did I wreck anything by not putting the motor at tdc and taking the tensioner out?
Do I just use rtv silicone to seal it when I put it back on?
Here are the pics:

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you should be fine as long as you didn't turn the motor or crank over put some RTV on to seal it and install it then check your timing just to make sure it's still on it should be
 
and when you put it in tighten the two 8mm bolts down then before you install the 12mm bolt and spring stick a screwdriver in the hole and push the tensioner rod in 1 click or however much it takes to get it tight if you can then install the spring and bolt
 
Like Ed said you are PROBABLY "okay" to reinstall the tensioner after NOT setting the engine at TDC, BEFORE you removed the tensioner. BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Set that mother fucker up at TDC and THEN install the tensioner. If not you very well can bend a valve.
 
I'm confused here lol Ed said to just put it in and you say to set it at tdc? Wont the timing skip when I do that?
 
you should be fine as long as you didn't turn the motor or crank over put some RTV on to seal it and install it then check your timing just to make sure it's still on it should be

I did not turn the motor so should I install it or put it at tdc? Also is there supposed to be oil in where the flywheel is?
 
Ok how do I turn over the motor ? From the cam? Or flywheel?
 
Like Ed said you are PROBABLY "okay" to reinstall the tensioner after NOT setting the engine at TDC, BEFORE you removed the tensioner. BUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Set that mother fucker up at TDC and THEN install the tensioner. If not you very well can bend a valve.

Could I just put the tensioner in and then pull the flywheel cover off and the cam cover and make sure it's timed befor I run it?
 
I would put the tensioner in so there is some tension on the chain then put it at tdc and make sure the marks line up T on the flywheel and the line on the cam gear to the nipple on head you'll seee it when you pull the cam cover off
Pull the dust cover on the stator case and use a 17 mm ratchet and time it like that turning it counterclockwise only
 
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And always turn motor over a few times by hand to make sure the piston isn't hitting the valves to be safe
 
Ok thanks for the help. I have to drain the oil right? And do I need a gasket for the flywheel cover and cam cover? Or do I use rtv?
 
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