Im guesing its not good to have metal shavings in you oil filter?

[YAMAHAULER]

You don't take the stator case off just the plastic dust cover no need to drain oil

 

[2000]

You don't take the stator case off just the plastic dust cover no need to drain oil

Then do I turn it over with the cam?

 

[YAMAHAULER]

When you take off the plastic dust cover that says Yamaha on it there will be a 17 mm bolt that is the crank bolt turn it counterclockwise with that bolt

 

[lbjamm]

I'm with Ed. Just reinstall the tensioner and THEN turn motor over and double check your timing marks.

 

[2000]

When you take off the plastic dust cover that says Yamaha on it there will be a 17 mm bolt that is the crank bolt turn it counterclockwise with that bolt

Ok I see so there is probably a small hole for the nut. Thanks for the help. Should I use high temp rtv on the tensioner?

 

[lbjamm]

If the tensioner gasket didn't tear, I'd just reinstall and watch for leaks later. I doubt there will be any.

 

[2000]

If the tensioner gasket didn't tear, I'd just reinstall and watch for leaks later. I doubt there will be any.

It did tear I will rtv it

 

[Gen1Pat]

Yeah, sorry, busy doing other things. Do as Ed said and install the tensioner to take up the slack in the chain, then turn the engine over counter clockwise by rotating the crankshaft. I would find an open end wrench that fits on the two flat landings of the "plug" that the crank bolt is tightened down against. That "plug" has splines that allows it to turn with the crankshaft. That being said, it is better to rotate that using a large wrench, then it is to rotate the crank using the 17mm crank bolt. The reason for this is so you don't loosen the crank bolt when you rotate the crankshaft.

I believe the plastic engine cover that says Yamaha, uses m5 allen bolts. The cam over uses two m5 allen bolts as well. You will also have to remove the plastic "cap" from the top of the stator cover that has a slot in it for a large regular screw driver. With that off, you can look down in it so you can see the flywheel. On the flywheel there will be an F and a T. you want the T to line up with the tiny notch in the hole you are looking through. Once that T is lined up, you need to see if the line in the cam gear is pointing at the little bump, or tit, in the cylinder head. It is at the 11 oclock position, roughly, (IIRC). If that line looks to be 180* away from the "tit", rotate the engine one more revolution (360*) at the crankshaft, and double check that both the crank, and cam, timing marks line up.

 

[2000]

Yeah, sorry, busy doing other things. Do as Ed said and install the tensioner to take up the slack in the chain, then turn the engine over counter clockwise by rotating the crankshaft. I would find an open end wrench that fits on the two flat landings of the "plug" that the crank bolt is tightened down against. That "plug" has splines that allows it to turn with the crankshaft. That being said, it is better to rotate that using a large wrench, then it is to rotate the crank using the 17mm crank bolt. The reason for this is so you don't loosen the crank bolt when you rotate the crankshaft.

I believe the plastic engine cover that says Yamaha, uses m5 allen bolts. The cam over uses two m5 allen bolts as well. You will also have to remove the plastic "cap" from the top of the stator cover that has a slot in it for a large regular screw driver. With that off, you can look down in it so you can see the flywheel. On the flywheel there will be an F and a T. you want the T to line up with the tiny notch in the hole you are looking through. Once that T is lined up, you need to see if the line in the cam gear is pointing at the little bump, or tit, in the cylinder head. It is at the 11 oclock position, roughly, (IIRC). If that line looks to be 180* away from the "tit", rotate the engine one more revolution (360*) at the crankshaft, and double check that both the crank, and cam, timing marks line up.

Thanks for that long wright up. I will do that to night.

 

[2000]

Thanks Ed and Pat for all the advice. I put it together like you guys said and it runs great and doesn't leak. Now to check the valves. Are the warriors supposed to tick a lot?

 

[YAMAHAULER]

They tend to have a bit of chatter and even more with a S1HC

 

[2000]

They tend to have a bit of chatter and even more with a S1HC

Ok thanks for all the help.