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on the cams....how does the lift and duration come into play and what to look for?

Also I just read that for the .450 megacycle cam...it says that you have to modify the valve cover for exhaust lift? Perhaps that cam isn't for me?

According to megacycles catalog I have to get there adjustable cam sprocket too?

Can I get that cam anywhere cheaper than $194?


Another thing.....if dave still has the jug and JE 11:1 piston ill buy that....what cam should I run with that set up?
 
yea i saw that too with modifing the exhaust valve cover when i got that cam and i never used it. i think that only applies to the warriors that have a decompression lever but im not sure.

on megacycles website, the cam is $194 but if you have a core to give to them its only $130. i think i am going to trade the .450 i have for the .415 that they have to try out.

What kind of power are you looking for? do you want more of a top end or more bottom end powerband? depending on what you want will detemine to some extent what cam you should get.
 
Just more power in general......I do tend to do more crawling then top speed racing......so i guess bottom end.
 
i would say if you would to get the 11:1 piston and jug from dave that the #88 grind from webcam would work good if thats the power you want. but the piston does have more compression so you could probably run little more radical cam than that like megacycles 252-x2 cam or webcams .430 if you want to stay in the lower end of the powerband. but im not any expert at all this, just stating my opinion and what little i do know. if im wrong someone will tune in. hope this helps.
 
How about this set up? 85mm bore, JE 11:1 piston, and poweroll .430 cam? Good set up? More power than stock? Should I still run a cooler plug?
 
actually that sounds pretty good. yea that will have a very good upgrade in power compared to stock. top end should be very nice, lowend should still have a good increase in power compared to stock, but you will notice the power really come on at mid range IMO. but i would think that would be a fun setup. but again im not a professional, just trying to help.

on the plug im not sure if you should run cooler or not. i never messed with that. for my 10.5:1, the stock seems just fine.

also do you have an oil cooler? i would say that would be something to look into to keep the temperatures down since the motor will be built some
 
Quick question: How do you get the rocker arm shafts out of the head? They have a 6mm thread inside thembut what do you use to pull them out? I want to put valve seals in but have to get the springs out first. What is the trick?
 
For the valve springs just weld a piece of pipe (1" I believe) with a window cut on the screw piece of a big 'c' clamp. The window would be to simply put the keepers on there. For the rockers you need a slide hammer that can enable you to put that thread of a bolt on or that has that thread adapter. I used the one from mac tools and drilled the head piece to fit a bolt in it. When you install them don't forget to use moly assembly lube on the cam ball bearing, valve stems, oil seals, and rocker pivots. They are the furthest spots from oil during first startup, and need some heavy duty protection. To replace the needle bearing in the head use almost the same thing, a slide hammer that is a pilot bearing puller. They have a set at harbor freight for 40, and it can be used to pull the swingarm pivots and many other pain in the ass bearings out. While you have the head off you might as well renew it.
 
I'm about to do a head rebuild w/ Kibble valves, springs, and guides. Anyone have any bad experience with them?
 
Good now I just have to get home and start my build. I have been floating around in the ocean and can't wait to get home. This forum is my best entertainment.
 
I have nothing against kibble except their valve seals are junk. Those red ones, just trash them and get a tusk gasket set or equivilant that comes with a set in it.

Personally I prefer tusk on these 350 motors gaskets. Jmho

And you will loose a bit of compression due to kibble's valves being dished verses the stock flat topped valves.

I run kibble springs, white brothers cam, and versha valves and is so far a bullet proof head setup.

Just my experience for ya.
 
I got the OEM valve seals. The engine I picked up seems to have got some water in the valve area, You guys think I should be worried? I bought it on craigslist and had my bro pick it up and to tore the head off and said it has some surface rust around the valves. That is why I picked up these valves.
 
The only thing that can rust is the vslves, springs, and rockers. Everything else is aluminum or brass I wouldn't be too worried just pull it apart and clean the rust off and put it back together.
 
My bro said the rocker and cams are well lubed. its just the corrosion on the valve. Whats the best way to clean it?
 
I need your guys help. I just replaced my head and I cannot get the timing right. When I line up the "T" with the crank case index and then go to check the cam timing it is off like a tooth to the right of the cylinder head index. I then adjusted the cam gear to the left one tooth and now it is off to the left of the cylinder head index. Is there something im doing wrong? Also how do you find TDC on the compression stroke?
 
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