need info on head work

[akaguppy]

so was cleaning the bike the other day and went to pull her in the garage when she lost compression and died on me, went ahead and and pulled the head to find out that both valves are not seating right at all. called the p/o and found out that his friend did a valve hone, new seals but threw in the old valves, springs, and guides. also he is not sure if his friend did a 3 angle job or a standard job, claims his friend resurfaced everything; can clearly tell that was never done. he told me the carb was aftermarket when in reality it was just a new stock carb with stock jets for exhaust and no air box at all. :argh:

so now i need info, i looked up and think my head from my parts bike, i want to say it is an 87, it has the dual cable carb. i looked up online and all oem part numbers match except the rockers. i m thinking i can trow that head on my 02 and ten save up for a complete overhaul on the head with just about everything new including a weber .390 cam.

does anyone have any input on this as far as if an complete 87 head work on a 02 or am i m rebuilding the head now.

mods are a super trap exhaust no lid with uni air filter stock carb, with stock jets, and he claims he bored it out .20 over but i m checking that now. any thoughts would be great.

 

[bones]

that 87 head will bolt right man no problems there

 

[akaguppy]

that is great news now all i got to do is pray it is still in good shape lol, and ideas on what to through in to the old head when i get it worked on, i know i want the weber .390 cam, i do a lot of woods riding, also i want to do a port and polish on it but should i do +1 intake or stick with the stock size and also what kinda of valve guides do y'all recommend.

also thank ya for the quick reply bones

 

[bones]

midway is the to talk to about head work

 

[akaguppy]

got ya i ll wait till tomorrow to pm him, to see if he posts his thoughts here.

 

[87warrior917]

Honestly id stick with the stock valves and port and polish the runners. .390 cam would be perfect for tight trail riding. We'll need the better springs along with the cam.

 

[akaguppy]

kibblewhites for valves and thinking of +1 Kibble intake from Web Cam like deadlasts setup

 

[Gen1Pat]

Don't forget that is a hard weld cam and it'd be best to use the hardweld rockers. I'm sure there are people that run those cams without the h/w rockers, but those stock rocker faces are on the soft side for a h/w cam. Still you can't go wrong with web.

 

[akaguppy]

thank you i will look into that

 

[akaguppy]

what are y'alls thoughts on this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-YAMAHA-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cff2aea99&vxp=mtr

 

['00 WO-YA!]

It don't look like a bad kit but I doubt that it has all that you want as far as valves & springs to suit the Web. 390 cam.
I'm going to recommend hitting Midway up & see if he'll do a package deal for you. Maybe he'll even do an exchange for ya.

 

[akaguppy]

i have been talking to midway but my warrior jumped timing and i was thinking of that kit just to get it going again

 

[Gen1Pat]

I've never bought from them. I didn't see anywhere saying factory Yamaha parts or such. It's not a bad price, but I think you could spend that money better. Using that kit on ebay will not allow you to run the web.390. Simply because the valve springs are going to be stock type, not high perf. Also the rocker arms aren't hard welded. It will cost you $65 each for the h/w rockers,valve spring kit w/aluminum retainers $72/$95 for the titanium retainers, and the cam is $148. That's w/o core charges, according to web's website. So you can see where I'm going with this. If money is an issue maybe consider going with the stage1 hotcam. When you compare the specs side by side, you'll see web shows their specs in sae, and hotcams in mostly metric. Convert the metric to sae and you'll find the hot cam has .002" more lift (ok not that much more) and it has 250 degrees of rotation at .039" of lift. That's 6 more degrees than the web at .050" of lift. The only other diff is the lobe centers are slightly more on the hotcam. So they are very close to one an other. I have the s1 hotcam, as do many others on here, and have been very pleased with it. I am also running stock valve springs and have not experianced any problems w/valve float, and I run my bike wot throttle for a fair amount of time on all the logging roads I have around here. If your valves aren't burnt, rocker shafts aren't worn, blah blah blah, you don't need that head rebuild kit. Just my .02.

 

['00 WO-YA!]

I think you're better to just go with Midway & be done with it man. Otherwise I'd just find myself a decent used head & slap it on.

 

[akaguppy]

I think you're better to just go with Midway & be done with it man. Otherwise I'd just find myself a decent used head & slap it on.

that is what i m looking for right now a decent head with decent price, prob the route i will go if they come back and tell me i need machine work.

everyone this kit is not going to be used with any cam other then stock and would only be used to get my warrior back in action till i have the funds to do the head i want.

warrior jumped timing :argh: and they are thinking bent two valves as of this morning looking at all options to get it back and running. will know exactly what is wrong tomorrow.

 

[akaguppy]

I've never bought from them. I didn't see anywhere saying factory Yamaha parts or such. It's not a bad price, but I think you could spend that money better. Using that kit on ebay will not allow you to run the web.390. Simply because the valve springs are going to be stock type, not high perf. Also the rocker arms aren't hard welded. It will cost you $65 each for the h/w rockers,valve spring kit w/aluminum retainers $72/$95 for the titanium retainers, and the cam is $148. That's w/o core charges, according to web's website. So you can see where I'm going with this. If money is an issue maybe consider going with the stage1 hotcam. When you compare the specs side by side, you'll see web shows their specs in sae, and hotcams in mostly metric. Convert the metric to sae and you'll find the hot cam has .002" more lift (ok not that much more) and it has 250 degrees of rotation at .039" of lift. That's 6 more degrees than the web at .050" of lift. The only other diff is the lobe centers are slightly more on the hotcam. So they are very close to one an other. I have the s1 hotcam, as do many others on here, and have been very pleased with it. I am also running stock valve springs and have not experianced any problems w/valve float, and I run my bike wot throttle for a fair amount of time on all the logging roads I have around here. If your valves aren't burnt, rocker shafts aren't worn, blah blah blah, you don't need that head rebuild kit. Just my .02.

thank ya man i will keep that in mind , i did not know that about the hot cam and the weber. i will look into that even though cam is on hold as of now.

 

[Gen1Pat]

It's funny, the cams are so close to one another and yet hotcams says you can run stock springs, but web says no. Running stiffer springs wont hurt the hotcam, fyi. It does let you use the stock rockers because it's not hardwelded. Think of it as a high perf cam option from the atv mfg. Also, get the hotcam off ebay if you decide to go that route. I got mine for $125 after shipping.

 

[Gen1Pat]

Don't just look into warrior heads only. Big bears, wolverines, and any rapt 350, bruin 350 will work, too. Just incase you didn't know. There are several on ebay at really good prices.

 

[bones]

i got good stock head ....need a cam and covers

 

[akaguppy]

Throw me a price bones. Id like to get a whole one if I could