New clutch with free problems

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Monster tails

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I replaced the clutch on my 99 warrior and now the quad decides when and if it gives me an issue going into first gear when it is idling. The quad shifted without issue before I did the clutch, I even pulled it apart and redid it. I have tried to adjust and replace the cable with no luck. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Please post threads in the right forum title.. I will move it

Just for the record its sections, then subsections (like when you go on the elite section within the picture section, those are subsections) then threads. Lol
 
need some more details did you put an extra steel in? take the thin shim washers out? when you put it together were the clutch plates tight not loose like the inner hub didn't spline correctly? what weight oil ?
 
when the bike is idling and I go to put in first gear the shifter will move down but it feels like nothing is there, if I release the clutch and pull it back in then it will go into first, or if I hold the clutch in and let it out slowly while holding the shifter lever in first it will suck it into gear.This happens 6 times outta 10 when I try to shift from neutral into first. When the bike is moving it shifts with no problems. I have replace the clutch cable and tried all different adjustments. I've been asking questions and working on this for over 2 weeks now and nobody has ever heard of this it doesn't seem like it should be to major but I just can't figure it out. It only happened after I put it in the new clutch.it is an aftermarket tusk clutch. it seem like you would be a clutch adjustment. When the clutch is pulled in it holds the bike fine and seems to work like it should, the bike don't jump and starts off smooth.
 
id check the shifter linkage make sure that's all good but that doesn't sound like a clutch prob to me sounds like shifter pin or spring is broke inside someone who has had one of these tore down will chime in. my buddys banshee did the same thing a few weeks ago shifter felt like it had no spring tension on the shifter ended up braking a pin off
 
Just for the record its sections, then subsections (like when you go on the elite section within the picture section, those are subsections) then threads. Lol

Ok there smarty pants your wrong. Also for the record its forums, sub forums, and threads.:bird::lmao:
 
I will check that, thanks. I just assumed it was the clutch or the cable because it was the only thing that i touched. the funny thing is when i play with the clutch adjustment it does get better. I picked up a clymer book today and it said something about lining up the clutch lever with the marks on the case but it is not real clear if when the clutch lever is released if that is where it should be.
 
when you have aftermarket clutch springs it throws that alignment out of wack. just disregard that and get it functioning properly and it will be fine..im not much help on clutch problems though lol
 
Thanks. I am just frustrated it is driving .everything crazy. I think from now on I will stick with OEM parts. I don't like the fact that I was told to leave the cushion rings out, and I really don't understand why you aren't supposed to use them.
 
take it completely apart and reassemble, aligning the 2 arrows on the front and rear pressure plates and hold them together tightly during reassembly and it should be ok. mine was slipping really bad because i didnt hold the clutch pack together when i put it in, went back and held it together and it worked fine
 
not to cause a stink but what does aftermarket clutch springs have to do with alignment of anything? there only going to put more tension/pressure on the clutches. I tend to dig further than the problem is. you are going to have to adjust the cable to make up for the thicker clutches. it may be that you don't have the clutch fully disengaging if you ran out on the clutch handle there is adjustment down buy the clutch lever on the case. don't feel bad about not buying oem I have a tusk in mine and beet the **** out of it the first 5 rides and its holding in there. don't want to step on nobody's toes but don't want to give false info eather
 
the hd springs arent as long, therefore if you use the case alignment marks the arm will not engage the clutch as it should
 
I made sure the arrows were together and I didn't know about the case marks until today so I didn't even use them during assembly. When I adjust the clutch to have a lot of free play it seems to be better, but I am talking about a lot of free play like 2+ inches. And if I adjust it to the recommended setting of 4 to 5 mm I have to pull the clutch in and let it out and pull it in again to go into first when idling.
 
Sorry freak I disagree I don't want to make this thread an argument rather see monster out there riding but springs will have nothing to do with adjustment because once the inner is seated on the clutch disks you compress the spring to it. Now if you ad a steel in there you change it and spring tension and the distance the inner hangs out
 
I thank you everyone for your help, I will continue to try every option that is given to me, but let me ask you this if I did adjust it to work the best it could is there any harm in riding it that way? and also let me confirm with the aftermarket tusk clutch I don't use the cushion Rings correct? Also reading in the book it talks about the V notch on the friction plate, what it states is only 1 plate has a notch, with my aftermarket clutch all the plates except one have a notch. the way I install them was putting all this together lining up with the two arrows on the pressure plate and the clutch basket and the one without the notch was farthest from the engine case and closest to the pressure plate.I don't know if that makes a difference?
 
i have the same clutch in my bike and i ride it hard its been in there for like three months I kept the little spacer rings and installed an extra steel and hd springs i would say maybe its the spacer rings or add an extra steel im not sure exactly but the clutch works great
 
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