new here guys, lookin for suggestions

['00 WO-YA!]

Hey guys, the name's James, got a Warrior back in July & have been working through some issues since then. My old heap is a '00 & was "unmaintenanced" it was a mess. I bought lots of spare parts including & engine & decided to clean the head up for some performance. I'm a mechanic by trade just for some background & have worked on all makes/models (autos) & Beechcraft aircraft. Anyway, I ported the spare head, lapped the valves & cleaned the mating surface. I removed the stock head & split the head gasket for a lil more compression on the mill before reinstalling the new head. Valve clearence is set @ .003I & .007E. problem is that it's a turd since the swap, down on power & nasty miss up high, this WAS NOT present before the swap. I have an oldschool "Race" Supertrapp, K&N, modded air box lid & jetted 45p & 152.5m. The bike ran ok before, it needs a bore, piston & rings b/c it uses some oil (smokes) but ran ok. Now...not so much, down on power & nasty high rev miss. Anybody have valves float?

 

['00 WO-YA!]

Also wanted to add that I've rulled out parking brake switch nonsense & reverse lever grounds, I really don't believe it's a dirty carb, it's more like valve float that I've experienced on some car engines. As far as I'm aware it has all stock parts in the head (cam, valves & springs) so if the spring pressure is down I won't be surprised. Lets bounce some ideas boys!

 

[Jebbysan]

Hey guys, the name's James, got a Warrior back in July & have been working through some issues since then. My old heap is a '00 & was "unmaintenanced" it was a mess. I bought lots of spare parts including & engine & decided to clean the head up for some performance. I'm a mechanic by trade just for some background & have worked on all makes/models (autos) & Beechcraft aircraft. Anyway, I ported the spare head, lapped the valves & cleaned the mating surface. I removed the stock head & split the head gasket for a lil more compression on the mill before reinstalling the new head. Valve clearence is set @ .003I & .007E. problem is that it's a turd since the swap, down on power & nasty miss up high, this WAS NOT present before the swap. I have an oldschool "Race" Supertrapp, K&N, modded air box lid & jetted 45p & 152.5m. The bike ran ok before, it needs a bore, piston & rings b/c it uses some oil (smokes) but ran ok. Now...not so much, down on power & nasty high rev miss. Anybody have valves float?

It is not uncommon to get the cam timing off due to the fact that the cam chain is wore....adjust the tensioner and line up the marks at TDC. See if the cam is off relative to the crank.
Cam chain stretch can lead to a cam being over 10 degrees off in some instances....this happens alot on DOHC Hondas.....the intake cam will move due to chain stretch and the exhaust stays the same.
Even if you line the marks correctly during assembly....the tensioner needs to be taught against the chain for accurate cam alignment.

Another thing to check is lash again.....the valves may have "closed up" after your lapping...causing a valve...(probably the intake) to hang open..bleeding your compression...
I know you checked it....but if they beat themselves in... .003 is easy to lose....
Eliminate this variable.
....and from there-you guessed it...do a compression test.

My money is on the timing....check it first....ignition and cam....
I am by no means knocking your ability as a mechanic either.....
these are things that get by the best of them....

Good Luck,
Jebby

 

[duneracerweston]

I'm also going to say check on the gas make sure there is no water in the gasit will stutter on the top end and do a plug chop to check how the jetting is on it

 

[DeadLastRacing]

What Jebby said

 

[Jebbysan]

I'm also going to say check on the gas make sure there is no water in the gasit will stutter on the top end and do a plug chop to check how the jetting is on it

Good call Duneracer!!!
I did leave my warrior unridden for 3 months and when i went to ride it again it sputtered and coughed....ran like horseshit.

Put fresh gas in it and it took off!

Pump has a VERY short shelf life these days......

Jebby

 

[duneracerweston]

And 93 octain will run better in these motors promiss

 

['00 WO-YA!]

K guys, thanks, I guess I have a few things to check....again, lol, the valve lash was after I'd ran it for a lil bit after reassembly & the readjusted & you're correct, it had tightened up, I did a before & after compression test & I gained 10lbs, up from a 100lbs(which seems tired to me, I'd be much happier to see 130). I know the chain has stretched, timing marks are a tiddy bit off, didn't know the tensioner was adjustable??? I thought it was self adjusting, spring type?? Oh, I also will try some 93, I've been gettin by on the 89 since we have such a poor stock compression. Thanks guys, good to hear from some experienced vets on these things, it's a learning process on this turd like any car is!-James

 

['00 WO-YA!]

Also, nothing can be done about ignition timing correct? That's all the responsibility of the CDI correct? I'm completely open to learning anything I can about this thing & hope to be of assistance to some of you in the future.

 

[elwood]

you can get an advance key for it and since it's an 2000 you can get the Dynatek programmable cdi to adjust timing curves here are some links

http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=286&cat=284&page=1

http://www.atvpt.com/dynatekcdiprg.htm






.

 

[duneracerweston]

i run the degree key and no you cant mess up the ignition timing unless you put the flywheel in without a key in the crank and i personally dont like the dyna cdi the way it shuts spark off when you go from red line wot to the next gear it kills fire till you give it gas again not a fan of that

 

['00 WO-YA!]

K, so I certainly don't wanna start a huge back & forth with anyone but some folks argue that the offset woodruff key for ignition timing is a compromise in reliability, changing cam timing would reguire a adjustable sprocket(s) in the timing set. I'm certgain that you were making reference to changing cam timing via an adjustable sprocket correct, I've seen a few of those, I think CWR has one & I've spoken with Greg, that cat seems alright, might try sending some business his way.

 

[duneracerweston]

Haven't looked to see if cwr has them I know that webcams has one for95 bucks

 

['00 WO-YA!]

Yup, I visited Web & saw theirs as well.....hmmm, making sure the cam is degreed properly is the other half after you have the gear, not sure exactly how to set that up, I have a degreeing kit but only ever used it on an ohv SBC engine. Also, it seems like some of the companies offering cams for these engines are just so secretive about duration & lobe seperation, what's up with that, lol?

 

[duneracerweston]

If you hit the link on most cam websites that says more info it tells you that stuff and the web cam has righting on it that tells howmany degrees it gett advanced or retarded

 

[Jebbysan]

Webcams site has down to earth info on the cams....LSA is not that critcal on a thumper because it is only one cylinder....
I am gathering info on intake centerline on these and when I feel I have enough info....I will post what I found out....
If you PM me...I can walk you through the degree process...or the procedure for any engine....I doubt that one could set up an indicator on this motor while it is in the frame.

Peace,
Jebby

 

['00 WO-YA!]

Thanks Jebby, when the time comes I'llcall upon you man. I really want this thing running it's very best, it needs to, I demand it & I'm a heavy guy so I need it to.

 

['00 WO-YA!]

Well, for people who helped with and/or followed the thread back when I started it.....I just wanted to update my findings. Honestly I ran out of cash & got aggrivated since I've fixed & replaced so much stuff on this thing that I've just left it alone for about the last month, aside from starting it & dickin around the yard, it was still good for that. Anyway, after reading some other threads I finally got motivated enough to do some simple checks & found that I have an intake boot leak between the carb & head somewhere. If the boot itself has a tear what's the best option?? YAMAHA?? I've heard about some of the ebay jobs but what I've heard hasn't been very good. Anyone have a good repair for these?

 

[duneracerweston]

Buy new or gets different carb that dosnt use the OEM boot

 

['00 WO-YA!]

Pretty much what I figured. I took it apart today & found a hole right behind the nut on the left side. Just for shits & giggles I put a lil black rtv on the outside of the boot just to see if it would make any difference at all. When I put it back together the improvement was 10 fold. It still wasn't perfect but definitely revved harder in the higher r's. I'm sure it still leaks some air, this was just experimental. I wish I could just find a super cheap Raptor 350 setup for it for now, I wanna do an FCR later. Damn ya can sink some money in these things!