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You can tell your year by getting the 10th digit on the vin.

I'm guessing your stator is going out as well. You likely can splice in a new Pickup/Pulser coil and it should fix your issues. Its work a try at least as pulser coils are fairly cheap.
 
Well I can't quite remember for sure, but I think the wiring from 96' to 01' was the same.. It kinda sounds to me like you might have a bad CDI?

One thing you could do is keep your eye on ebay. Maybe you could get lucky, and find a complete wiring harness. That would save some hassle...
You could just start over with the proper connections.

Welcome to the forum.
 
Honestly it sounds like you have a mess on your hands lol. I'd buy a whole kit from RM stator that has a new stator, coil and cdi box for 96-01 models, then source either a good used or new wiring harness. I know it would be a little more $, but it would possibly save you alot of problems in the future
 
If I can get a new stator that has the same wire colors as the one I have now I can just match the wires up like they are now. does anyone now if these new aftermarket stators on ebay match the stock wire colors? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Stator-...46864&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

This is how its wired up now.
white/green connects to green,
red connects to brown/white,
blue connects to white,
yellow connects to red,

Simple as that LOL!
 
If I can get a new stator that has the same wire colors as the one I have now I can just match the wires up like they are now. does anyone now if these new aftermarket stators on ebay match the stock wire colors? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Stator-...46864&pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

This is how its wired up now.
white/green connects to green,
red connects to brown/white,
blue connects to white,
yellow connects to red,

Simple as that LOL!

That caltric stator should be the same as stock?? It's meant to be a factory replacement.
 
start with testing the stator with a multimeter

On the 3 white wires coming out of the stator, they should all have 0.7~0.8 ohms resistance in all three combinations. That means imagine numbering each white wire either 1, 2, or 3. Check 1 to 2, 1 to 3 and 2 to 3. Also, check any one of the white wires to the laminated iron core of the stator. ANY continuity to ground indicates the stator has had an insulation breakdown and will have to be replaced.

To test the Source coil (for the ignition) connect your pocket tester from the white/green wire to the red wire. Resistance should be 270~330 ohms resistance.

To test the pickup coil, connect your tester from the blue to the yellow wire. Resistance should be 171~209 ohms resistance.
 
Also, get yourself a Clymer repair manual so you have the wiring schmatic and diagnostic procedures, and values.
 
the 338 on the S coil should be fine but .3 on the charge system means it may not charge ... either way i'd pick up a new stator
 
the 338 on the S coil should be fine but .3 on the charge system means it may not charge ... either way i'd pick up a new stator

Word. Like I said the 338 was taken at cold temp. The other stator tested low in the garage as well but when I brought it into the warm house the reading keep going up. I'm planning on ordering a new stator assemble tonight as soon as I figure out what year to order that will match up the best for my stupid configuration the previous owner hacked up.:argh:
 
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