New to me Warrior, and have a few Questions...

[KatDaddyJames]

Just picked up a 96 warrior. Its in decent shape. Plastic looks good, and not cracked. Runs like a champ! Has a new plug, stator, battery, starter solenoid, seat cover, and a fresh oil change. They spent 500 getting it back running ie stator, oil change and new plug. not sure if the carb was cleaned or not. Cant read the chicken scratch on the invoice to well. And another couple of hundred on the tires and seat cover. Looks to be stock, has original exhaust, but does have an aftermarket round air filter with a foam slip on over it. Has a set of pro taper handle bars on it, tusk bumper and a skid plate down the center. ITP wheels and holeshot tires. Got an extra set of front wheels with some worn, but usuable tires. They wanted 1300 for it with a trailer, and i talked them down to 700 without the trailer as I already had one. Feel as though I got a good deal. Just a few minor things to address. Has a small oil leak I gotta track down, had a few drops on my trailer when I got home. They had it on a trailer in the garage when I got there, and the tongue was on the ground,, so the quad was lifted high in the rear. It didnt have any oil on there trailer. So I am looking for a leak somewhere towards the back of the motor I think. The rear shock seems really weak... how do you recahrge the nitrogen?

I greased up all the pivot points. Checked the oil and brake fluid. Runs and shifts really good, but looks as though it will need a new clutch cable soon. The sheathing is wore off on the clutch cover side.

It is missing the reverse/neutral indicator assembly, and the chain cover at the front sprocket. looks like the chain popped off at one time cause its been "repaired" in that area. It looks to only have one mounting bolt for the cover.

ANY suggestions on what I should do to this thing? Also anyone have a dashcover ie neutral/reverse assembly laying around? Should I pull the carb and clean it just to be on the safe side? Anything else I should inspect on it? Is the Oil cooler Mod a good Idea? Any preventative maintenance I should do?

 

[DeadLastRacing]

Welocme to the site! Enjoy.

Sound like you got a hellofa deal on that war dog. For the oil leak, look around the shifter and check to see if there is an o-ring still on the oil drain, least those are places to start looking. Poped chains and JB wielded cases are common. Most owners dont check the chain tension enough and the warrior carrier design tends to loosen up more so then a honda design carrier. Just check you chain every once and a while and keep the carrier tight and you wont throw ur chain again. Look on ebay for the dash lights with cover. I have a cover but no lights. If it runs fine now, no need to mess with the carb, less you really really want to. You ride in the heat alot? Oil cooler is a good idea, especially if you have any engine mods. Cooler running engines last longer and run smoother. Now lets see some pics!

 

[87warrior917]

First off welcome to the site! As for the clutch cable when u get a new one i would suggest a pro-motion terminator cable, super smooth operation. If the bike runs good with out any issues i say leave the carb as is unless your familiar with it. As for the oil cooler mod, it will help alot, but since your warrior is stock it really isnt necessary. Now if you go and get an aftermarket piston and bore the **** out of it then yeah the cooler mod is a must. Some good upgrades to do with out getting into the motor are a good air filter( K&N, UNI, Pro-design), Open airbox, Aftermarket pipe and rejet the carb. Sounds like you got a good deal to me, warriors are damn near bulletproof! I agree some PICS!!

 

[DeadLastRacing]

and if you do re-jet, do the pen spring mod. It'll help throttle response a little.

 

[KatDaddyJames]

Thanks for the replys! Ill get some pics up at the beginning of the week as I keep it at my dads. I dont have the room at my house, I got a 09 saturn sky redline (4k on it, weekend/special occasion car...never been rained on since I got it 18 monhs ago) and 18ft tahoe in the garage. Sheds got the zero turn in it, so I dont have room there either, but I tried! Come spring, I may sell the shed and build a bigger one.

Im in northern TN, so we see high 90s and occasional 100s in the summer. Carbs arent anything new to me, have worked on many multi carbed motorcycles and owned a 300ex about 10 years ago. I have read about the pen spring mod, is it beneficial on a non jetted carb?

Monday I think I am going to check/adjust valves, try to track down the oil leak, and if the pen spring mod is suggested I will knock that out while I am at it. How do you recharge the nitrogen in the rear shock? Can anyone point me in the direction of a "how to" for the pen spring mod if it is suggested?

 

[DeadLastRacing]

best bet on your rear shock if its blow, it so get another one or get a banshee shock. They don't get rebuilt, cheaper to buy another used one, and the banshee rear is an upgrade but still a direct bolt on.

yeah, the spring mod will help stock carbs. just take the spring out of a retractable pen and use that in place of the stock spring that is on the end of the accel. pump. Easy-peesy.

 

[KatDaddyJames]

Looks like monday I will do valves, search for leak, pull carb for spring mod, and get pics.

 

[elwood]

yeah just pull the carb bowl and change out the spring. When/if you do the banshee shock you'll have to mod your airbox a little cause the ressy is attached. you can cut it and bolt and seal a piece of medal of take a torch maybe even a heat gun and heat it and push it inward a little. Also I would do the direct shifter mod. makes a big difference and is cheap. just pull your shifter off and put on a yz250 shifter, they are real cheap on ebay

 

[KatDaddyJames]

OK... Got oil leak cured. It was only leaking while running. Kinda odd where/why/and how it was leaking. It was coming from where the stator wire comes out. Pulled the cover off and noticed the rubber piece that the wires go thru had 2 extra holes in it. It was spraying oil out of these two holes when revved. I took some high temp RTV (red) and sealed them up and put some on the outside piece, over the rubber thing, and flush with the case where it sticks out. Voila no more leak.

Got the Valves adjusted. Made a homemade dash to put the green and red lights into, and added a blue one also to remind that the key was on (mine doesnt shut off with the key). The neutral relay and plug that plugged into it is gone. In hooking up these lights, I only have the key and reverse working. However the reverse is backwards, lights red when in forward and goes out when in reverse, its wired to the f/r shifter switch. The actual neutral and reverse switches on the motor are bad. Anyone know where I might be able to source these from as the dealer and bike bandit want over 40 apiece for them? I can live with the reverse being backwards, lol, but I sure would like the neutral to work.

Spent most of time testing switches, wires, and reading the service manual for the wiring. Pen spring mod is next on the list as I didnt get to it. I did get about 3 hours of riding time on it altogether, and it sure doesnt use alot of gas!

 

[elwood]

the stator I got from rmstator had 2 extra holes in it also. I called them and they told me to use some rvt silicone to seal it up, or send it back to them. I used the black rvt and it has been working great.