No spark, is it the stator?

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You will only get a Peak reading, with out the motor spinning under power. That reading is the magnets passing the contact(s).

Ohm out you coil, it should read OFL(open) The CDI is a little trickier, How many pins are in the plug end(i'd look at mine, but I'm not near it).

Also try unplugging your regulator/rectifier, see if you get spark without it.
 
1998yamahawarrior said:
Ohming the colored stator wires you get nothing?
Click to expand...

Yeah. Ive tried all the different color combos too. I have a three and 4 prong plug off the stator. I tested the coil, hard to get a reading off that (?) but I also swapped in two different working coils and still had no spark.

I'll try the unplugging of the rectifier and see what happens. I still wanna know if its possible to get it to fire on a bump start if the starter start isn't producing a spark (doesn't make sense to me)
 
DeadLastRacing said:
Yeah. Ive tried all the different color combos too. I have a three and 4 prong plug off the stator. I tested the coil, hard to get a reading off that (?) but I also swapped in two different working coils and still had no spark.

I'll try the unplugging of the rectifier and see what happens. I still wanna know if its possible to get it to fire on a bump start if the starter start isn't producing a spark (doesn't make sense to me)
Click to expand...

Just give it a try man. Make sure everything is hooked up and push it down your driveway, pop the clutch in 4th. Doesnt really make sense to me eithe but its worhth a try.

What does the rectifier do exactly?? And there is no way to test the CDI??
 
I've always been told the CDI and rectifier can't be tested. Rectifier converts AC to DC and also regulates how much voltage is being outputted.

HAHAHAH, I know what stuff dose just not how it all works together and what have you. Electrical is weird. Its like Match to me and I'm a math retard.
 
The rectifier transforms high voltage AC power to low voltage DC power.

The regulator maintains 12-14 vdc.

THe only thing your testing for in the Cdi is:
- shorts to ground
- shorts across terminals
All could result in lost spark.
 
No ohms on the color wires, which are your pick up coil and source coil means theres a wire break. You may need to pull the cover and check out if theres any wires that have been severed.
 
Ya been there. On the red one I actually had the flywheel cut the pickup coil wires one time and the pick up coil ohmed at nothing. Thats why when you siad you were getting nothing from the coils I came with that conclusion.
 
can some one tell me for sure that a bump might work? I'd hate to dick with it where Iive because of the neighbors and to load it up to go to my g-mas barn is a bitch just to bum start it and get nothing still.
 
It's a toss up, if your stator is too far gone, nothing you do will generate spark.
In the same regard, bump starting it causes the motor to spin faster, allowing it to generate more spark(if the stator has any life left).

Personally, I'd try to triple check the stator. It really isn't too tough, once you know what values your looking for, and where.

On a side note...I had a Honda XL600r(600cc thumper). I couldn't get that mother to start(kick start only).
No matter how hard I tried(usually 20-30 kicks), It wouldn't start.
One day after 6 failed bump starts, we resorted to dragging it behind my ZTR mower at 14 mph, for about a half hour. Finally the pig started, only to run out of gas.

Had I known it had a bad valve, I'da just left it in the shop.
 
If your not getting any ohms from the stator its not going to spark period. If its an RMstator your colors will be:
source coil brown and green 300 ohms
pickup coil red and white 500 ohms
You really need to look over the wires.
 
Picture2-18.png
 
hey I was just looking at the manual and found step by step instuctions for the ignition system testing It is under the troubleshooting section. It starts on page 290. It tells what and were to test, how to test and what to do next depending on results and the last thing is replacing cdi. So it goes threw it all. Hope it helps
 
alright so where do you stand with this deadlast?

when testing a stator you dont even care what the voltage is, it is all about resistance (ohms) if resistance is through the roof then it is junk...

from what i understand (and i maybe backwards on this) the source coil is responsible for triggering the spark at low rpms like when you are trying to crank it over... and the pickup coil is responsible for the higher rpms, like when the engine is actually running... so YES bump starting it will often work... because you actually skip the whole source coil and get right on to the pickup coil... its kinda like jetting, the main doesnt work at idle and the pilot doesnt work at WOT....
 
bomber315 said:
alright so where do you stand with this deadlast?

when testing a stator you dont even care what the voltage is, it is all about resistance (ohms) if resistance is through the roof then it is junk...

from what i understand (and i maybe backwards on this) the source coil is responsible for triggering the spark at low rpms like when you are trying to crank it over... and the pickup coil is responsible for the higher rpms, like when the engine is actually running... so YES bump starting it will often work... because you actually skip the whole source coil and get right on to the pickup coil... its kinda like jetting, the main doesnt work at idle and the pilot doesnt work at WOT....
Click to expand...


THANKS bomber, that's what I was lookin for. SO if I try and bump and it starts, then I need to replace the source, coil.

But wait, source is the mail large non-replaceable coil right, so I'll need to get a whole new stator?
 
I think he has the coils backwards, because the pick up coil is the one that you replace when it will only start being pulled/pushed. If you do try and it dont fire, I still say you need to look at those wires if your ohming and not getting anything.
 
I'll dick with it this weekend. It freakin snowed here again. In sick of seein it.
 
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