Ok, what to look for in a used Warrior

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thegreg

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I got a 2000 warrior from a guy for cutting his grass. i know, doesnt sound like something a 25 year old should be doing, but i came out on the top on this one. anyway, it has a white brothers e-series slip on (connects to the header pipe just behind the cylinder), and a 10 tooth front sprocket. it will wrap up and run through the gears PDQ.

my first plans for it are to put a stock sprocket (13t?) back on the front to make it usable and not a donut machine. i also have to rebuild the rear MC, no biggy.

my question pertains to the engine mostly. the guy got it from a guy that used to race quads, but has no idea what has been done to it. at idle, it sounds pretty meaty, almost like it has a cam in it, and the compression is rediculous. is there any way i can inspect the motor fairly throughly without pulling it? where should i start looking to see if this motor has been into?
 
Wicked. No shame in cuttin some grass for extra cash. Sounds like you got a killer quad, e-series is a great start! get that 10tooth off there. What PSI reading do you get with a comp test? It have the stock filter or carb? Pull the cam cover, any marks on the side of it?
 
What deadlast said, compression test can tell you if there is any work done to the piston/crank. And it's not hard to pull the cam cover off.
 
well my compression test gauge only has a 14mm and an 18mm adapter, not one small enough to fit in the plug hole. NAPA doesnt sell the adapters, just another 'universal' kit that just has a rubber nozzle that you are supossed to hold tightly on the hole to seal it. i may have to go to advance or autozone and do the loan-a-tool because i checked there and they have the size i need (12mm i think?).

i pulled what i thought was the cam cover off (left side of head, 2 allen screws) and i cant see past the cam gear, if that is in fact the cover you are referring to. all i can see is through the holes on the cam gear, the cam seal, which has a red/orange band to it with 'japan' 'toko' (i think) and some other numbers. pulling the intake valve cover off and looking past the rocker arm, i can see that the cam looks to have some substantial lobes to it, but it may be an optical illusion from looking through the small port.

the carb is stock (i guess), a mikuni BTM. (all carb knowledge i have is mostly for early 70's honda motorcycles, so bear with me) the main jet, or what i think is the main jet (the one that the needle goes into) is a 145. the needle clip is in the middle (there are 5 slots, so its on #3). the guy i got it from said i needed to jet it for the pipe (stock air box), so i moved the needle up a clip. then it began flooding out. so i moved it back to the center, and its still running richer than i would like (almost wet plug until it warms up, then a dark black soot color, and puff of black smoke when you rev it). im thinking about either moving the needle down maybe a clip or all the way down, to see if that will lean it out, or getting a K&N filter. do they make one that will fit in the stock box? i still have the full air box/snorkle that comes up under the seat.

the plug is an NGK D8-something-or-another. could i go to alittle hotter plug to maybe to burn better? i know i need to run better gas (ive been running 87, w/no ethanol), but that wouldnt make it run too rich, would it?
 
That's the stock jetting, I have the E Series and running the 147.5 jet.

That spark plug is the D8EA I believe and it's stock as well.
 
I'm kinda doubting you have any engine mods. But deff. get a comp test and see what numbers you get back.

Leave the clip in the middle, mess with your jets. 145 main and a 42.5 pilot are stock. Bump to a 45 pilot and try a 150 main. Buy all three or four (147.5, 150, 152.5, 155) up from stock and test em out. Jets are cheap from your local dealer, or they should be.

they do make a stock K&N replacement filter, althou I suggest you buy the direct adapter. They make some cheap plastic ones, I have the aluminum pro flo one.
 
ok, so with stock jetting and the e-series muffler, its still running rich. i can live with that i guess. i would rather be rich than lean, but would still rather be stoic than rich.

does anyone have any experience with these aftermarket CDI boxes that supossedly advance your timing and raise the rev limiter?
 
there junk... the stock cdi has no limiter and as for the timing if want to advance it id go with a timing key or adjustable cam gear
 
Yeah I think in stock form it's already fast enough to warrant a few suspension mods. Making it faster is just going to make it that much harder to ride without the suspension mods. So generally I think suspension first if you're going to start dropping coin on one of these.
 
Suspension will depend on what you plan to do with it.

I went with a UNI filter because I felt it offered better protection in dust and dirt. A lot of people use the K&N though.
 
is this what im looking for, air filter wise?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yama...orcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1904wt_1165


i was gonna try to trade it off for another motorcycle, but once my fiance sat on it and liked it its gonna be hard to get rid of it.

what should i look for in suspension?


im sorry for all the questions that have more than likely already been answered a million times...
Same one I have, works good. I bought an outwares for it also for around another 16 bucks. There is a pic of it installed in this thread http://www.yfm350.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23670&page=2 also when I mounted it I used some rvt silicone between the adaptor and the airbox to make sure it sealed air tight
 
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ok its payday, so i already ordered that K&N/adapter, and a rear master cylinder rebuild.

plans for use...i dont really have any. its really fun to ride around and just do doughnuts on or wheelies. i gonna need something to ride around my farm eventually (when i get my house built), but there are a couple of motoplex's around where i am, that have some pretty sweet trails and some drag pits.

so in essence, i want to to everything lol
 
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