3504life
Well-Known Member
Hey guys I was thinking of doing a little bit of engine work. What would be my beat bang for the buck??
Porting
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duneracerweston
Well-Known Member
depends ow big the buck is and wether or not uve piped airfilter and jetted yet
elwood
Well-Known Member
a higher compression piston and cam, and since it's apart bore it out. that is probably the bigest power gain for the buck, I think
MotoArts
Well-Known Member
I home ported mine.
Mainly knocked down the valve guide bosses (aluminum part only, not the guide itself) and rounded the exhaust floor a bit. Did some bowl work, smoothing the transition from seat to the port and any other hokey looking spots. Used a pineapple shaped rotary file slowly on a drill, then smoothed the marks with some 220 grit by hand. I didn't go real crazy detailing the ports, especially on the intake side.
Also smoothed the chamber with 220, removing any sharp edges and polished it using regular white DuPont paste compound and a cotton wheel on a dremel. Should help keep carbon clinkers from forming. Don't take too much from here and reduce compression ratio.
Be careful not to hit the valve seats at all or you'll need to recut the seat(s).
Worth the time? Probably a little, as it only took maybe 45-60 minutes total once the head was stripped of parts. Certainly can't hurt.
Mainly knocked down the valve guide bosses (aluminum part only, not the guide itself) and rounded the exhaust floor a bit. Did some bowl work, smoothing the transition from seat to the port and any other hokey looking spots. Used a pineapple shaped rotary file slowly on a drill, then smoothed the marks with some 220 grit by hand. I didn't go real crazy detailing the ports, especially on the intake side.
Also smoothed the chamber with 220, removing any sharp edges and polished it using regular white DuPont paste compound and a cotton wheel on a dremel. Should help keep carbon clinkers from forming. Don't take too much from here and reduce compression ratio.
Be careful not to hit the valve seats at all or you'll need to recut the seat(s).
Worth the time? Probably a little, as it only took maybe 45-60 minutes total once the head was stripped of parts. Certainly can't hurt.
3504life
Well-Known Member
What do ya guys Think of aftermarket cdi too?
JonS
Well-Known Member
really they are kind of frowned upon by most, but i think the dynatech is the best since it's programmable. their supposed to raise the rpm by like 1k or close to it.
1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
Your right the only reccomended one is Dynatech. Some day I do wanna get one. There has been a few past guys that have had them and they siad it really woke the warrior up.
duneracerweston
Well-Known Member
Your right the only reccomended one is Dynatech. Some day I do wanna get one. There has been a few past guys that have had them and they siad it really woke the warrior up. im sorry but i must disagree the rm stator relly woke my warrior up granted its not tuneable but it came with a 2 year warrentie! it wakes up the trottle responce too
1998yamahawarrior
Well-Known Member
It will wake it up but the reasoning behind the dynatech is for what you pay for a rmstator one, you might as well drop the extra coin for a programable one. Not to mention there are a few guys that have put the cheaper CDIs on and actually lost rpms, Because the cdi had a rev limiter where a warrior oem cdi has no rev limiter.
Not calling you wrong, though.
Not calling you wrong, though.
