Cylinder walls actually wear as well. Nikasial cylinders (which the warrior does not have) will wear at a much less rate... but once again this is not the case with the warrior.
This is a tough call because bad gaskets will not make it easy to measure how bad the piston/ring/cylinder wear is based on compression. A leak down test is ideal to test this, but still bad gaskets could foil it.
Looking at a cylinder and the walls is not always a telltale measure of how healthy the cylinder is. No scratches is a good thing, but you have to see if there is still good crosshatching or not. If it is glazed (smooth and shiny with no fine roughness) then the cylinder is worn and will need a hone at minimum.
If you are doing this to learn, then you could take the opportunity to mic out the cylinder as well. This is not hard, because you are merely taking measurements to compare how round the cylinder is. This also would tell you if you are requiring a bore and possibly by how much, and or if the cylinder is not good.
There is a lot to learn about checking out and building a top end properly, but it is easy, and this would be one of the best times to do it if you are willing. Many people here are familiar with this and would help answer questions I'm sure.
In the end, if you are considering a re-ring with a new piston, I'd go the next size up with 11:1 compression if you want to run pump fuel and just have it bored to start with fresh cylinder walls.
Short cuts can always be taken, but if you are looking to learn, then do not take them and do it properly... the knowledge you will gain will be worth the extra time and effort.
Sorry if some of this seemed to make no sense... I jumped around and wrote this a few times, maybe I'll edit it if its that bad lol
