Shifter Mod..

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bent shift shaft is rather common on blaster but the shift shaft is made from hard ass steel so you gotta abuse one to bent it
 
has anyone modded a shift lever to put on an early warrior with the pull starts? if so how did you do it and any pictures? I really need one for my 87... way too much slop in the stock linkage.
 
Not to dig up an old thread but I was wondering the same thing with and 87 would it just be easier to bend your own or would the yz shifter fit?
 
Heres what I did with my 99 that has an 87 motor in it. I custom bent a Banshee shifter around the pieces. I chose a banshee because it was longer and when bent was about the perfect length. Heres a pic
IMG_20110314_163500.jpg
 
Looks good 1998. My foot wouldn't come close to reaching the shift lever though lol
 
I made my own the other day. I just took some metal rod( not sure of the diameter ) and basically bent out the shape I wanted and folded it back onto itself over a bolt( to make the pedal) and then basically doubled up the shape I already made. Welded along the seem and then gusseted the bends just so it wouldn't flex to much and then welded it to an old splined end of a shifter. Cleaned it all up and painted. I have had it out a couple times since and it works nice. Finding neutral is 100x easier now .
 
just got a yz250f shifter and when i mount in on it doesnt clear the case. so do i need to heat and bend it?
 
Hey I'm new to this site and I'm doing the big bear mod but I'm having trouble with a direct shifter for it I was wondering if anyone can help me out I need the year and make of a direct shifter that would work with the big bear oil cooler mod any response will be greatly appreciated thanks
 
Get a moose racing steel folding banshee shifter. It is what I used. I had to cut and reweld the splind end back on. But I have pull start as well. You may not have to do any of that. You'll have to bend it some for it to clear the cooler adapter.

SANY0131.jpg
 
Is it worth putting in a pull start?I thought about but I wasn't sure if I needed to put in a new crank or not.
 
Imo it is worth it. You're on a trail and the battery goes dead, or the solenoid takes a ****, you just reach down and pull. All you need is the pullstart itself, and the drive hub that it catches on to turn the engine. If you've ever had the plastic yamaha cover off the engine, on the left side, you've seen the 17mm bolt that goes into the end of the crank. Just remove that bolt, and pull out the "plug"/insert that slips over the end of the crank. Then just slip the pull start hub on in it's place and tighten the 17mm bolt. That simple. It will be a bitch to pull start because you don't have the decomp lever like I do, but if you start off slow pulling it and give it a good "snap" after you have it turning over, she'll start.
 
Gen1Pat said:
Imo it is worth it. You're on a trail and the battery goes dead, or the solenoid takes a ****, you just reach down and pull. All you need is the pullstart itself, and the drive hub that it catches on to turn the engine. If you've ever had the plastic yamaha cover off the engine, on the left side, you've seen the 17mm bolt that goes into the end of the crank. Just remove that bolt, and pull out the "plug"/insert that slips over the end of the crank. Then just slip the pull start hub on in it's place and tighten the 17mm bolt. That simple. It will be a bitch to pull start because you don't have the decomp lever like I do, but if you start off slow pulling it and give it a good "snap" after you have it turning over, she'll start.
Click to expand...
A decomp helps a lot if you have a pullstart 2. :tup:
 
Yes it does! Especially when you run high comp. Mine is an absolute mother to pull start without it.
 
I don't think you can put a decompression switch on a 2001 warrior....or can you?
 
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