Should He Buy it?......(Bought)

Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum

Help Support Yamaha Raptor 350 & Warrior Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DeadLastRacing

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
7,594
Reaction score
4
Location
Ohio
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/869784257.html

The guy is pretty adamant on going for no less than 700. Ive seen a lot better and a lot worse for the price but a few things left me scratching my head. It smokes like all hell. Needs new rings but hopefully that's all. The jetting is way off but that's an easy fix. The rear sprocket has more than necessary front and back play in it. Of coarse knowing me I see a warrior and see tons of potential. My buddy knows nothing of quads, wants to buy one asap so he can get some riding in here come fall and I'm really trying to get him to buy a warrior. He offered 500 and the guy said it has to go for 700. I told him to fix the rings and re-jet it and then we'll talk... Also the clutch cover is drilled for an oil cooler (he took it off and plugged the holes), and it has a steering stabilizer on it (he claimed that 2000 and up models came factory with a stabilizer on them?)..........What y'all think.
 
I'd let it go. Knowing that it was rode hard and put away wet, it's sure to need all kinds of other little stuff that'll nickel and dime him to no end. Mine was like that, i made the mistake of buying one that was used hard and it was a constant process to keep everything working on it, as soon as i'd fix one bearing the next one would wear out, etc. I ended up spending a lot of money fixing the broken stuff on it, and that one looks a lot worse than mine was. The price isn't bad for a 2000 warrior, but you gotta figure on spending another 500 at least within the first year.
 
If he wants to be riding this fall and not turning wrenches I would look for something else.
 
Yeah thats what I told him......just keep looking. What about the whole stabilizer thing, is that true?
 
Here's my take on it. It really is a myth that once a motor starts smoking the rings are shot, I mean think about, how much wear would it take to wear a set of rings to the point that they won't retract no more. Chances are either a valve guide is bad, or worse they never did oil changes and here is the problem, all the sludge that builds up is never changed, all the non combstables keep getting circulated and sooner or later the rings begin to coke up and stick to the piston, causing them not to retract and you get blowby. I've fixxed this by adding Marval Mystry oil to the carb as the engine is running, or if you wanna get brave add Karosene to the carb while reving the motor, this will remove the **** holding the rings in the ring lands.
 
deadlastracing said:
Yeah thats what I told him......just keep looking. What about the whole stabilizer thing, is that true?

The stabilizer thing is definitely not true. No warrior ever came from the factory with a steering stabilizer, actually i don't know of any quad ever made that has a steering stabilizer stock.
 
Thats what I said but the guy guy said he was sure he was right! Even after I told him i know warriors like the back of my hand.....needless to say this seller was a lil backwoods.
 
Found another one for 600......going to check it out on thursday....I think i might buy the stabilizer off the first guy!
 
Gunna give this guy 650.....it deff worth that right? frame is solid anit all there.......it could afford new front tires but that no biggie.......the main thing the the engine smoke....but fivemilefinish is prepared to dish out the cash (hopefully not a lot) to get it back to normal.
 
$650 is so affordable! even if i end up puttin $500 in it that is still only $1150! Besides I am not gonna race the thing I just want something to get me out with my buddies! besides anything is better then bein stuck at home with the old ball and chain!!
 
So fivemilefinish is now part of the clan. I have it at my house to do some much needed carb work at the moment.......here's some pics of the brute. So far I found some random parts lying around in my stash of warrior **** and got this a new air box lid, a slip in uni filter and my old front shock covers, and we also did some work on the chain and rear end.......but the fuel air mixture screw is all the way in and stripped out..... It not up to par yet but after a short while and time due in the hands of mwhaa, hahahah, it ill look and run great.

PA100059.jpg

PA100060.jpg

PA100061.jpg

PA100062.jpg

^^ Stabilizer (Lucky)
PA100066.jpg

PA100064.jpg

^^ drilled and ready for an oil cooler
PA100063.jpg

^^^^^ hard to see but its stripped and making it run like ass. Im gunna take the whole thing apart.
 
it rough and not completely done yet but it already looks a million times better.......most of this is going to be covered in a graphix kit.......

PA110068.jpg

PA110067.jpg
 
She's a Bute, if I do say so myself! I can't wait to get 'er outta your garage and on to the trails! btw Deadlastracing KICKS ASS!!! Thanks for all the help man!
 
its together.......got the headlights workin and the carb all cleaned but this piece smokes like a crack addict and needs rings worse than a greedy bitch!

PA130005.jpg

PA130004.jpg

PA130003.jpg


my driveway is now twice as cool....for the time being!!!!!

PA130008.jpg
 
Just out of curiosity if you have the oil cooler setup on the clutch cover you are supposed to block off the internal passage to force the oil through the cooler. So if you do this and then remove the cooler and plug the holes aren't you starving the crank from oil? That is if I remember right. just thought I would put that out there as something to look at if you already have not. Otherwise it seems like a good deal as long a s you guys are able to fix it with your own labor time and not paying someone else to do it.
 
94350x said:
Just out of curiosity if you have the oil cooler setup on the clutch cover you are supposed to block off the internal passage to force the oil through the cooler. So if you do this and then remove the cooler and plug the holes aren't you starving the crank from oil? That is if I remember right. just thought I would put that out there as something to look at if you already have not. Otherwise it seems like a good deal as long a s you guys are able to fix it with your own labor time and not paying someone else to do it.

Good call. After seeing that I was wondering the same thing.
 
94350x said:
Just out of curiosity if you have the oil cooler setup on the clutch cover you are supposed to block off the internal passage to force the oil through the cooler. So if you do this and then remove the cooler and plug the holes aren't you starving the crank from oil? That is if I remember right. just thought I would put that out there as something to look at if you already have not. Otherwise it seems like a good deal as long a s you guys are able to fix it with your own labor time and not paying someone else to do it.

Your a freaking genius man....I didn't even think of that......good call hombre. I still have some carb questions but other than that I think this is a great starting point.
 
that is a very good point 94350x has there. also the holes look like they are drill pretty far apart unless im just used to what mine looks like.
 
they are farther than the normal 1 inch (it also sucks because the upper hose mount has to mount sloping down to allow for the hose to get around the dip stick area) of space but i took the plugs out and sure enough there is a wad of metal at the bottom of the upper hole, so yes the crank was starving. Its all fixed now, just waiting to mount the cooler because im missing a inner sleeve to it. Anyone have one laying around it a big bear oil cooler.
 
Back
Top